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Turbo Mapping for Cummins 4BT engines?

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is a 4wd conversion that ridiculous?

Basically I feel like I have been shooting in the dark in response to swapping turbos on the 4BTs. The turbo bolt patterns and style between the 4 cyls and 6 cyls are interchangable so all Dodge turbos work on 4BTs.



I am in search of the best answer for all around mild increased performance for a Cummins 4BT that will be daily driven. I am looking for an answer that is similar to "Put a 16cm2 non-wastegated housing on a Gen 1 12 valve instead of the stock 18. 5cm2" - but for a 4BT.



This is my second 4BT. The first time, my stock H1C with 16cm2 non wastegated housing finally died. I bought another H1C off a guy on TDR that was rebuilt and in great shape for only $150. When it showed up, it was actually a WH1C, the rare 1994 model that is basically a H1C but with the larger compression turbine of the HX35 style design, so basically it is a HX35 but called a WH1C. I removed the wastegated 12cm2 housing and used a non wastegated 12cm2 housing because the wastegated model would not fit on the 4BT, interfered with the block. The non wastegated housing worked great though. Peak boost was about 20 lbs, upto 25 psi if really trying to get high boost pressures. In all it seemed like this turbo was a very good fit with the 4BT, noticeably more power and better efficiency. I feel like it was still opened up though and decent for highway driving and EGTs were never an issue.



Now, I have been hearing that the HY35s are a good candidate for the 4BTs, and I need a new turbo, so I bought one. They are basically a HX35 with some small differences as far as I can tell, but with a 9cm2 single port housing, wastegated to open just before 20 psi. Good low end power and boost quickly. I have not got the truck running yet so I am still shooting blindly. Because these are "popular" on TDR and among the 4BT enthusiasts, I have been assuming that maybe ramming as much air in there in this application is a good thing.



But along these lines one might assume that a 12cm2 wastegated housing is best for an early 12 valve 6BT. But I have been reading and according to dodge-ram.org's turbo faq, seems like 16cm2 non wastegated is the best housing for a 12 valve, not too tight for highway driving.



So I am wondering if perhaps it is better to use the stock turbo or perhaps the HY35 with a non wastegated 12cm2 or 14cm2 housing instead of the 9cm2 wastegated housing?



____________________



Also, I do not know much about turbo mapping. I know a lot of gasoline and rice rocket guys are good at it and can read them. I am wondering if people have turbo mapped Cummins 4BTs and if there are good conclusions from it on which turbo to use?
 
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Same 4BT Turbo Boat

I am still playing with turbos on 4BT. I have used 16 & 18CM2 H1C, and have a new HX30 (low cost to me) to install now. Need a wastegate bracket.



I found no negligible difference between the 16 & 18. I have the 18 on now, but every once in a while it oozes raw oil into the exhaust. Very small amounts, then stops. Oil not slobber. It had been run with a clogged air filter on a 94 Dodge which accounts for the seal problem. Free to me... But it has to come off.



My problem with both the 16 & the 18 is too much boost at 2500 and could use more at 1200. Way too much boost at W. O. T. Creates heat!



I'm running an automatic or I would have more complaints.



:confused:



Wayne
 
I recently worked on a 4bt. Just for the heck of it we put in a set of Lucas injectors and a HY35 from a 2001 automatic Dodge. This combination made the engine very strong and responsive with far less smoke than I anticipated. It hazed a little smoke at idle just like the first gens with pods, and it would give a good puff if you nailed the throttle, but it cleaned up quick. I think the HY is a good, inexpensive choice.

I locked the wastegate down and it would hit 40 psi. I was afraid this wouldn't be good for the turbo or the engine. I devised an adjustable wastegate actuator and fixed it to open at 32 and I played with the fuel screw and the afc to get power and smoke just right. It took about a day of tinkering to get it right, but I bet we added a good 50 - 75 hp.
 
Hy35

Barry,

I procured a HY35 and with my down style maniflold the WG bracket was an issue. Did not install it. Would have had to tack the wastegate closed too. I am already seeing issues with too much boost on H1C making unnecessary heat. Got the smoke cleaned up with less than 20PSI boost. More boost seems to just go off the map into heat.

Agree, larger injectors would be a match for more boost.

Really don't have performance issues, just want to keep heat & smoke down.



Wayne
 
The one I worked on had the turbo mounted on top. I didn;t think about there not being room on the low mount option. I know with your fabrication skills you could've made it work. :)

Have you put an intercooler on it yet? I bet that would help some with the heat.
 
Looks like the second turbo is some sort of later usually electronically controlled turbo? I am seeing in one add its called a HE351CW and they are saying it is for a 04-05 Dodge?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turb...7QQihZ020QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



Then another one where it again has it listed as a HY35W (which is wrong as far as I can tell) and it also appears it has some sort of electronic control. Can anyone say what the actual model number is and what the electronics do, actuate the wastegate?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hols...9QQihZ004QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
mapping--injector timing

Since we are on the subject of mapping how about posting settings of the aftermarket injectors and turbo models in the 4BT? I have Bosch 190's. Paster Bob suggested 1. 50 mm for the VE pump. Mine are 1. 52 right now but don't feel the launch in high RPM range. Would like to know if the springs in BJMarshall's Lucus and be compared to springs in 190's. If I remember these aftermarket injectors are rated for higher pump pressures so we have to "wait" for them to open via timing.
 
mapping

Andre,

I was just finishing a dyno run on my VW with software I have. It takes the vehicle speed sensor and engine rpm readings and generates a HP and Torque curve after you enter the vehicle weight and coefficient of drag. This may be adaptable to our engines for the peformance testing you are leading up to. I am reading engine rpms right now on mine with a small sensor. I'll do some research and see if others have taken an OBD circuit out of a doner vehicle and used it on a Non-OBD vehicle. Those circuits can also measure our boost pressures also if we have the right range MAP sensor (i. e. 2 Bar).
 
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