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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Turbo - Oil Drain Pipe Hose

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I'm getting ready to change out the 3-4 inch long piece of hose that connects the turbo oil drain pipe to the engine block. Obviously you have to remove the oil filter to gain access. It appears to me that a person would have to pull out the piece of pipe that is pushed into the block or remove the drain pipe from the rear of the turbo in order to remove the hose. I called my buddy at a local Dodge dealership and the piece of hose sells for $41. 00 retail. I can get the part at wholesale. He also told me there is an o ring on the piece of metal pipe that's in the block. Also, if you remove the drain pipe from the turbo you have to have a replacement gasket. I'm trying to decide which would be the better way so I don't have to spend anymore than necessary on parts. I'm hoping that someone on TDR has replaced this hose and can give me some pointers.
 
What Trent said, and if you have to remove any tube to swap the hose I'd choose the turbo drain tube, you should be able to pick up a gasket at the local Cummins shop or make one yourself. Pulling the tube at the block would be way harder than unbolting the one on the turbo (MHO) and could create a problem down the road with leaks if not correctly re-fitted.
 
Several years ago my '95 truck needed that hose replaced. I don't recall having to remove the pipe from the block or anything else. I purchased the hose from Cummins, was under $20 back then.
 
I thought that I would resurrect this thread since I finally got around to installing the drain pipe hose. First of all, the hose, p/n 5086952AA was rather expensive. It listed for $44. 46 and I paid 29. 95. The hose is silicone I’m sure. I also bought a gasket for the drain pipe where it connects to the turbo. The p/n for this is 5003332AC and it listed for $3. 85 and cost me $1. 27. I get the reduced price because one of the parts guys is a friend.



You have to remove the air filter housing tube and the oil filter to gain access to the drain pipe hose connection. The hose is about 4 inches long. On my truck, the drain pipe is in two pieces. The longer piece extends from the turbo – it joins a shorter piece, via the hose connection, which is pressed into the block. The space between the two pipes is about 2 inches or so. I had to cut the old hose off both pieces of pipe in order to remove it. You have to remove the pipe at the turbo or pull the pressed piece out of the block in order to put the new hose on. I chose to remove the piece at the turbo and that’s why I bought the gasket. It was a bit hard removing the old gasket material from both the pipe and the turbo connection. Since I did not remove the turbo itself, I had to use a mirror to see underneath where the pipe connected since I was looking straight down.



I used a 10mm wrench to remove the two bolts at the turbo connection. The gasket comes with one side a bit sticky. I pressed that side to the flange on the pipe but it still tried to come off. The two bolts would not stay in the holes even through the gasket. So be careful that you don’t drop one somewhere you can’t find it. I finally managed to get the two bolts into the turbo connection. I used a ¼” drive socket and ratchet to snug them down.
 
I doubt it is silicone,oil will breakdown silicone very fast. When using a silicone hose around oil it should have a flourocarbon lining
 
I doubt it is silicone,oil will breakdown silicone very fast. When using a silicone hose around oil it should have a flourocarbon lining



Excuse me - I was speculating that the hose material was silicone due to the price. The hose that I purchased was black and had a burnt orange lining and, the hose was made in England. Maybe that's why it cost so much. Also, the hose wall was very thin. Anyway, my mistake about the construction material of the hose. Use whatever hose you feel comfortable with - I was just explaining my experience.
 
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