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Turbo Question

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I noticed slight play in my HY35. I have a 2002 bone stock 2500 4x4 QC Auto with 3.55's. I use it for pulling my 8500lb toy hauler. I live in CA so my truck needs to pass emissions. I pull over steep grades in almost any direction leaving the house, so I need the grunt down low. My question is would I gain anything by swapping to an HX35 if I don't intend to do anything else? Or am I better off just rebuilding the HY35? Thanks.
 
A little side to side play is ok, actually perfectly normal. If you move it off to the side give it a spin, it should not contact the compressor housing. There should be little to none in and out play however. If so then yes it’s rebuild time.
 
A little side to side play is ok, actually perfectly normal. If you move it off to the side give it a spin, it should not contact the compressor housing. There should be little to none in and out play however. If so then yes it’s rebuild time.

Thanks. I am getting a belt squeal noise from it that comes on stronger as boost builds. I pressed up the system checking for boost leaks and found none. So I am pretty set on opening up the turbo unless someone can give me another idea on where the noise could be coming from.
 
Take it off and inspect both sides (wheels). If you decide to rebuild yourself "very important" to have it re-balanced. Not sure where you could have that done but I'm sure if you listed your location, Town/State, someone will be able to give you an idea on where.
 
When I was reworking our 2001.5 back when, I switched to a PDR 35-12W, with Piers mods it spooled as quick as the HY35, however it cooled EGT better. SnoKing
 
When I was reworking our 2001.5 back when, I switched to a PDR 35-12W, with Piers mods it spooled as quick as the HY35, however it cooled EGT better. SnoKing

Did you do any other mods? Or was the rest of the truck stock? If I did that swap, even with no other mods, I could benefit from the cooler egt's and not get any lag.
 
Stage one jammer injectors, Edge comp in EZ mode(pump not taped, timing only), custom DTT transmission with smart controller, PDR35-12W, 4" exhaust banks exhaust brake. Around 325/650-700 HP/TQ. I had, pyro, boost, trans temp, and fuel pressure gauges.

With HY35 I had to drive the pyro, with PDR35-12W EGT were not an issue. I towed a 12,500 5th wheel with 4.10 gears.

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I found what appears to be the culprit. I have a tiny exhaust leak coming from the turbo to turbo flange. I could not hear it unless I built above 10psi. And sometimes it would go away. I believe I am either hearing the exhaust blow over the gasket causing a whistle, or the gasket rattling between the flanges. I ordered a new gasket and will be ripping it open this weekend. Thank you all for the help.
 
I thought originally that the turbo had excessive play, but upon inspection after removal, I believe it is good. The compressor cannot come close to the housing. I also had a broken exhaust manifold bolt on the top #6. Well, once I got in there I found that I had both #6's broken and both #1's. I also found thdt my manifold was cracked underneath. I am going to pick up a new manifold and gaskets right now. I was wondering what difference it makes as far as gasket thickness? And I have an exhaust stud kit I was going to put on from KBDiesel. Is there any benefit from running the stainless studs over the original bolts? Thanks.
 
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