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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Turbo Temperatures?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) No load stumble

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While pulling trailers the exhaust gases, temperature, control my speed. On just about any hill I can easily clime into the 1250 (preturbo) rang and have to back off on the throttle. The engine temp is fine and there is plenty of transmission and engine left to do the job. On long grades I have had to drop down to 40 mph and second gear to keep the turbo temp out of the danger zone.

I exchanged what appeared to be a perfectly good air filter, but didn't effect the high temp's.

The temp will clime as the boost climes. I guess it starts going up at boost 2+.

There are no modifications other than an X-Monitor gauge (the Pyro is installed in the exhaust manafold just prier to the turbo flange), and a Westtech fuel pressure gauge.

How would I check for intake system leak?

There has to be a simple solution.

Please, Any IDEAS?
 
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where in the manifold did you install the thermocouple?



is it real close to the turbo, or close to the head?



i would imagine temps would be higher closer to the head. i have no idea what the actual difference would be, but i am guessing that someone here knows the answer to that question.



jim
 
Thats normal for an ETH/HO engine, they all tend to run hot in stock trim. I've heard running an Edge EZ will cool them down... ... ... ... ..... but what then ... ... ... ... ... ... you've got room to put injectors in there, then a turbo upgrade, then a Edge Comp, then... ... ... ... ... . and it starts.
 
Originally posted by cumminspwr01

Also what psi is your boost gauge reading? You may have a leak in the intake system somewhere.

The temp will clime as the boost climes. I guess it starts going up at boost 2+.

There are no modifications other than an X-Monitor gauge (the Pyro is installed in the exhaust manafold just prier to the turbo flange), and a Westtech fuel pressure gauge.

How would I check for intake system leak?
 
I think that a stock truck can run up higher than 1250 degrees easily. But I don't think that egts are the issue on an auto truck. I think that the transmission will be the problem before the engine egts are.



Many here say 1250 you should back out of it. I think the number is a little higher than that. My thermocouple is post turbo, but I have seen 1000-1100 degree on my guage. I have run these temps for multiple minutes climbing steep grades with a load attached.



But the bottom line is drive it how you think you should. There most likely is nothing wrong with your truck. Temps in that range are normal, even stock. I actually saw MPG increases after pushing my truck extremely hard.



---Doug
 
This thing will clime up past 1300 easy if I let it. Aluminum changes to a liquid at around 1300, don't it?

I'm talking about going up a hill so slow, just to keep the turbo temp down, that PPffords as well as CTD's pulling trailers pass me.
 
There may be mulitiple causes to your problem.



first you need to consider you elevation and how much weight you are pulling.



When pulling heavy (13,000+) they seem to rise pretty quickly. I would also check to make sure you don't have any boost leaks. I had a lower intercooler boot blow off on me when pulling a hill. I would check all my intercooler connections and then do a boost check. The procedure is described in a tread, but I'm not sure which one. I am sure someone else will point you in that direction.
 
Isn't it a lot easier to burn up an auto if you drop it in to 2nd while pulling ??



I only ask cause I thought I read on these boards a while back about someone who burned up their transmission by doing that. I think the thread was called, " How to cook a transmission well done ", or something similar to that. I do know that unless you have a mystery switch, the torque converter won't lock up in 2nd.



By the way, I also have an ETC and have seen 1200* pulling 5500 lbs. up a moderate grade.



Jeff
 
I'd first check boost pressure - looks like your truck is stock, so you should see a solid 20+ PSI at maximum grunt - an Edge EZ with a boost increase and larger exhaust system would probably do the trick - and keep that EGT where you are - unless ya want to be looking at another Alaska Jack rebuild... ;)
 
Originally posted by JPLB22

Isn't it a lot easier to burn up an auto if you drop it in to 2nd while pulling ??



Jeff



If you don't have a setup that will allow AND hold lockup then yes the trans temps will soar off the chart. I'd be leary of mystery switches in plenty of scenarios if I didn't have an aftermarket TC/Valve body.



My trans commander directions clearly warn folks of the danger of using it with stock components unless precautions are taken. There's a reason why DC has the TC unlocking all the time and w/out beefing up the culprits that drove them to program the unlocking for protection you're asking for trouble.



Just my . 02.
 
Originally posted by Gary - KJ6Q

I'd first check boost pressure - looks like your truck is stock, so you should see a solid 20+ PSI at maximum grunt



The boost as recorded on the X-Monitor gauge has never given me a number higher than 9. 5. Could the gauge have the wrong program. Also the transmission temp recorded 168 degF while in 2nd gear pullen 16K lbs on the 7. 2 grade south of Flagstaff, Arizona. Normal for the trany is 145 unless I am stuck in traffic then it will go up as much as 165.

Just read that I shouldn't drop it into 2nd gear. Hum?
 
IF you are only seeing 9. 5 PSI boost, SOMETHING is seriously wrong!



Either a leak or other problem in your intercooler tract, or a fueling issue that is not feeding the engine enough to get the turbo up to normal boost...



Could be the turbo bypass valve is stuck partly open too...
 
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