Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Turbo troubles

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) now what?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I was changing my oil-filter tonight and I removed the intake tube between A/f and the turbo. There was oil tracks around where the silencer ring would normally be leading toward the front of the truck. Thinking this was odd i checked the axial play of the impellar shaft and found it to move about 1/8" up and down and did not spin all that freely. I had noticed the truck has had a funny exhaust note latly and seemed eaiser to stall. My question is will the dealership change the turbo before it fails or is this not a good enough reason? And could this have been caused by driving away as soon as the oil gauge moves? (I live in a condo and try to be nice) I do baby it until water temp is up.
 
Kevin, I had a similar question a while back, only about oil though no play in shaft, and the response I got was ... . let me see..... oh yeah... "DON'T DRIVE THAT TRUCK!" Ditto for you. You could risk severe engine damage. Would probably be good to have it towed to a shop. Just my . 02. Somebody else feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but play in the shaft is can be quite harmful.

Tim.
 
I talked to a buddy that works for dodge here in town last night. He said the oil was from my AFE and that to properly check radial play you need to plug the turbo drain and fill it with oil then put 5 psi of air to it. Also he said to look for oil in the intercooler elbow. In my original post I meant Radial not axial play. I did put the truck back together and drove it today. Boost pressure has not changed at all.
 
Yep! My turbo has at least that much radial play.



Everyone who looked at it said "it's the nature of the beast".



In the year I have owned this 98, it was loose when I got it, and it is still the same. No change. The shaft floats in oil when it is pressured up and the radial play goes away.
 
axial play is the killer... as long as you don't abruptly let off the throttle at high boost, you can get away with a surprising amount of radial play... obviously, tighter is better, but I've seen some sloppy turbos keep on kickin', just treat it nice and put a better one on as soon as you can afford to :D



Forrest
 
The company I work for wont touch warranty on a turbo unless its rubbing. Grant it they are smaller and kinda (alot) different, but the idea is the same.



Forrest has it right. Example a little Deutz Schweitzer turbo; Axial spec is like <. 002" Radial is over . 030". That model has about a 1 1/4" intake nozzle with a 2" or so compressor wheel. Compare that to the 4 1/2" (5?) intake on your holset..... you can afford some play.
 
you should see how much radial play is in a BIG turbo found on a big rig engine... brand new off the shelf, that shaft clunks around in there like crazy. obviously the longer the shaft, the more exagerated it'll seem... not ready to do the geometry, but . 030" movement 2" from the bushing = less than . 030" at the bushing.



anyhow, I've seen some turbos that you could make the compressor wheel touch the housing still working fine in a low boost application... obviously, it was on borrowed time, but axial play was still minimal.



Forrest
 
Unless the compressor is touching the housing or an oil seal is out we don't replace turbo's on B or C series in tractors. Ive pulled a couple of tubos off 7100 and 7200 series case tractors that were way into the housing and would still build boost and did'nt leak oil. Jake
 
Turbo play appears normal..... As for the "not spinning freely" usually this is caused by turbo coking. I have had good luck freeing them up by running a good synthetic oil for an oil change. Personally I feel that this is one of the best reasons to run a synthetic, I have never seen a coked up turbo running synthetics. Of course allowing the egt's to drop down after EACH drive prior to shutdown will also stop the coking problem.
 
I always allow the turbo to cool down. And when I am towing I don't shut the truck off at pottie breaks. Thanks for all the replies. It apears I got all worked up about nothing.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top