Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Turbo Wastgate TROUBLE

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Blown Rear Axle Seal(s) ?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Rear main seal, air conditioning

Status
Not open for further replies.
I'm officially resurrected!



Two words explain my absence:



COMPUTER VIRUS!!!!



Never did really pay much attention to that stuff. Too bad for me...



I watched my entire computer & all of its contents/programs get virtually & utterly wiped out in less than a second!

Emotions ran rampent. 1st Shear terror set in, then hostility:mad: , then capitulation. :(



Did I have back ups of critical data? Of course not. All I can say is that if you don't have the very latest anti-virus program BE PREPARED TO LOSE ALL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Anyways... WTF, I see the computer #$%@ around here has changed again. My signature is a former shadow of itself:(

I also found out I can NOT POST from my computer at work that runs XP. Just great:{



Back to business. The wastgate on my turbo has stuck in the shut position. Currently 149K on her. Time for a litte Turbo TLC. Found a great place that rebuilds turbos or can get a new ones. BOTH come w/ a 1yr warr, unlimited mileage & SUBSTANTIALLY undercuts the OVERPRICED market for turbos. I will report later after directly dealing with this vendor but it looks very very promising.



Questions:

1) Tips on getting those 9 year old rusted manifold/exhaust bolts removed in one piece would be greatly appreciated.



2) Anyone running a larger than stock turbo housing at high altitude?



Currently running a TST#10 w/ STRAIGHT exhaust & a K&N cone intake. Financal limitations are handcuffing me to these mods only. Can I get some lower EGT's with a larger (16cm) housing?

Can only use 90-95% of my #10 due to heat. My residence is at 7,500 feet. Otherwise, I'm very happy:) with my current setup.



Thanks guys!



Mike Nowicki

:)



P. S. I have formed a new company & recently & successfully have retrained myself. High Plains PSM Inc. , is a budding professional farrier service. Since I use my CTD for my income, I will be acting very quickly on this problem & really can't afford the time to fix a sheared off manifold bolt. BTW, if I do do the deed (shear it off), what are recommendations to fix that also? :eek:
 
If you think the housing is ok, just remove the compressor side.



For any of these fasteners, Kroil, WD 40 etc. Give the fasteners a sharp rap with a sturdy punch. I use a long 15mm and stubby 15mm wrench for turbo housing flange to manifold removal. You might tap the wrench with the "equalizer" if you are short on the "proper tools. "



If you remove just the compressor housing, loosen the cap screws with the open end of the 13mm wrench, don't round off the fastener. Rap these first with the punch and hammer too.



Loosen the oil line on the top of the turbo (use two wrenches) after the line is removed swing it over to the side. Be careful not to lose the copper sealing washer as it is reuseable.



Loosen the oil return tube (remove oil filter for easier access) gear clamp (8mm or 5/16") clean the clamp good with contact clr. to avoid stripping.



Gently clock or turn the turbo to slide the oil return off the fixed tube on the block.



Assure that the pin wheel in the compressor spins freely while clocking and removing. The bigger hammer method will cause a loss of core dollars here. .



Gently tap the compressor side towards the radiator (w/ a rubber mallet or soft face hammer) after the bolts are slightly loosened (4 w/13mm head) to disloge it from the turbine housing.



You will note the bolts cannot be fully removed until the compressor side of the turbo is slide out of the housing simultaneously.



When the turbo is on the bench remove the oil return tube and and replace the gasket with a new one on the new turbo.



When you reinstall reverse the above and note the clocking or indexing of the oil return tube, mounting etc.



On turbo housings, the 16cm2 should reduce the egts 100 or so, but you may not like the lag, its noticeable.



Also the BHAF will kill egts by 50-100 deg.



Also the removal of the stock muffler will help 100 deg.



Note a three hundred deg. drop may not be noted if all these mods are performed. .



Good luck,



Andy
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top