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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Turn off the Chime

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Hello, I need to disable the very nice chime for a while

(well until I fix the fuel sender problem) as it's driving me

nuts. is it painless or... ...



Thanks



William... ...
 
Take off the cowling around the steering wheel and ignition, there is a wire going to the Ignition switch, take it off and thats it
 
Disconnecting the wire at the ignition only disables the key in ignition ding. To get rid of it entirely follow the ding to it's source, on my '95s it was under the dash a little left of the ashtray. Unplug the box and remove the one screw that holds it in place. The box pops right open, you'll see the dinger about the size of a quarter just take it out, it's held on by a metal strip, there are no wires. Plug the box back in and replace it. If you just unplug the box the ding will go away but some of your warning lights will stay on.
 
Dont pull the buzzer

On the newer trucks pulling the buzzer causes problems with other stuff. It works fine on 1997 and older trucks.



Like Eric said, get a small skinny torx screw driver to reach the three small screws on the bottom side of the sterring housing. The that forms two halves with the ignition on one side.



With the screws out, the two halves will seperate with a little persuation. You should find a small connector the plugs in just below or under the the ignitition. Unplug this (you can plug it back if you want the DING back).



This will get rid of the ding with the key in and the ding when door opens.



The dinger the warms you when your lights are left on STILL WORKS, and the dinger for low fuel STILL WORKS.



jjw

ND
 
confused.

I have a buzzer with key-in-ignition and head lights on, but no ding for either or for low fuel. If I had a buzzer for low fuel it would disabled. I run it to the low fuel light every 4-5 tankfuls just to replace as much fuel as possible during the next refill.
 
Re: Dont pull the buzzer

Originally posted by JJW-ND

On the newer trucks pulling the buzzer causes problems with other stuff. It works fine on 1997 and older trucks.



Like Eric said, get a small skinny torx screw driver to reach the three small screws on the bottom side of the sterring housing. The that forms two halves with the ignition on one side.



With the screws out, the two halves will seperate with a little persuation. You should find a small connector the plugs in just below or under the the ignitition. Unplug this (you can plug it back if you want the DING back).



This will get rid of the ding with the key in and the ding when door opens.



The dinger the warms you when your lights are left on STILL WORKS, and the dinger for low fuel STILL WORKS.



jjw

ND



Well that would'nt help much with the dam fuel "dinger" I wanted to stop :)



it looks like I could remove the wire from the instrument panel to the CTM that I think would kill the fuel bell and most likely the low oil pressure too :-( I can live w/o the oil psi as I check the oil all the time as the dam vacuum pump is leaking!!



William.....
 
If you don't mind having no chime at all do it the way I described above, nothing else will be effected except no ding. The chime module on my 95s seems like it was made with disabling in mind, there is a place on the inside of the box lid that the chime disk snaps to for storage. Mine has been disabled this way since the second day I brought the new trucks home, I wouldn't even know if it rang with low fuel since it never had a chance.
 
Well I pulled the buzzer from my 01 before I read NOT to do it. So what's gonna happen now?? Can't put it back in either:D



Buzzless in Texas... ..... :eek:
 
Originally posted by illflem

If you don't mind having no chime at all do it the way I described above, nothing else will be effected except no ding. The chime module on my 95s seems like it was made with disabling in mind, there is a place on the inside of the box lid that the chime disk snaps to for storage. Mine has been disabled this way since the second day I brought the new trucks home, I wouldn't even know if it rang with low fuel since it never had a chance.



I will pull off the cover and look at the CTM I assume that's where the chime is located, if it's the same as yours is I will just unplug it. if not I think that I will try the wire below for the signal from the cluster to the CTM... .
 
Well I pulled out the base line CTM off the truck and poped it open, the dam speaker is soldered to the PCB:-( I will have to get out the sucker and remove it and I will put some socket pins in it's place so I can just re-install it when I fix my fuel sender. The truck runs just fine w/o it plug-ed in but... no intermittent wipers and no key ring light.....



William
 
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