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turn rotors or leave them alone?

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I need new pads up front and am wondering if I should turn the rotors or leave them be. The truck has 80,000 miles and does not pull to one side. Also no pulsing of the brake pedal. The rotors themselves have the normal ridges after 80,000 miles but no burning or actual grooves.
 
As long as they are not warped with no gooves they shouldn't need to be turned.

IMHO #ad


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98. 5 3500 SLT Quad 6X6 * 3:54 Auto * Waterfall black/red * Custom dually flaps * Rhino lining * All acc's w/leather * Muth signal mirrors * Catz MSC's * 55watt back up lights * Optima Red Tops * 80/100 Head Lights * BD exhaust brake * Banks EGT/Boost/Temp gauges * Mag-Hytec DC&TP * SS bug screen and fender trim * SS Stull diamond line running boards * SS 4" turn down * grill inserts
My Dually
 
Those ridges are exactly why you should turn your rotors. The new pads will not match the wear pattern of the old pads, and will probably cause weeping and gnashing of teeth if the rotors aren't turned. The surface of the rotors are also work hardened from use, and braking power will be reduced with the new pads. New pads/linings should always be accompanied by fresh rotor/drum surfaces.
Ron
 
The front brakes on my '95 had over 100K when I replaced the pads the last time. There is no Auto Zone in Eureka so I used the lifetime pads from NAPA. The rotors did not run out so I just buffed off the glaze and the edge ridge with a sanding disk. Since then I have stopped hard a couple of times because of deer. No pulling or other funny business. Every time I change oil and service it I check the brakes with the depth gage on my measuring caliper. So far so good. Not much wear and it seems to be even.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
 
JJP---Ol Ron is right on the money. If you want the pads to seat properly you will need a new flat surface as smooth as possible. You might get buy without turning them but chances are you will be doing it over. ---Sam
 
My experience with turning rotors is "dont't turn them"!!!. Every time I have had rotors turned they whorped within 10,000 miles. I had a couple of old trucks that had real bad grooves cut into the rotors, but the rotors were not whorped. they worked fine for many, many miles and years. I turned rotors before to get the groves out that previous owners put there (even though they were not whorped) and sure enough within 10K they were shot. If its not pulling and it stops good. don't turn them.

good luck

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2001. 5 2500 4X4, QC, Auto, 3. 54 LSD, SLT, SWB, Trailer, Camper & Snow plow Packages, White, 35k# Cody Hitch, 20' Gooseneck Lowboy flat-bed Trailer.
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1975 Toyota Landcruiser, ARB Air lockers Front & rear, 400 Small Block, SM420 4spd, Stock LC transfer case with 2 or 4 high and 2 or 4 wheel drive Low gears, 15. 5x36" Radial swamper on 12" rims, Custom front & rear bumpers, Roll Cage, Warn 8274 8000# winch, 2. 5" spring lift, 2" body lift. Premier on-board power welder, on-board air, 4-wheel power disk breaks, power steering, Lot of fun.
 
If you can afford it, buy new rotors. Cutting rotors will seriously shorten there life span prior to warping. Unless you never tow or haul anything and never brake hard, they WILL warp. If you dont have the $$ for new ones. Cut the ones you have now and start saving for new ones in about 10-15k. Good luck
 
My truck has over 163K miles and the rotors have never been turned. I'm on the 3rd set of pads that I installed about 10K miles ago. When I have to make a hard stop it still stops straight and quick. NO fade or craziness. I think the RWAL quit some time ago, but I didn't like the vibrating pedal anyway.

If the rotors get so they run out I will replace them. I like all the iron possible for cooling.
 
As long as my pedal has no pulsation and the rotors do not have deep groves I see no need to turn the rotors.
Just check the rotor thickness.
In the past on other vehicles I had premature warpage when the rotors were turned.
Tim

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1996 3500 87K. auto,3. 54,Ext. cab.
K&N air
Truck looks just like the truck on left side of page 6 issue 31.
1981 Mercedes 300D Non-turbo 174K miles
1987 blue phord 2810 tractor 456 hours.
 
I am one for not turning rotors. That is a significant amount to take off! If mine aren't warped (I replace them if they are) I just put the new pads on. That lip on the very edge files off and new pads fit right in place anyways. I like the Idea of the sanding wheel though. I wonder what grit to use? I would like to find a place that would vent a new set of rotors though!
 
Originally posted by JJP:
I need new pads up front and am wondering if I should turn the rotors or leave them be.

The SDAC frequently gets Chrysler engineers for tech sessions and lots of other techies. They say on performance cars do not turn the rotors, replace the pads. If they are warped replace the rotor. Why? You want as much material as possible to stop the potential of brake fade.



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2001. 5 QC 2500 White Sport 4x4 LWB ETC 5-Speed Anti-Spin 3. 54 Trailer Tow 241HD SLT+ Tan Leather(Mad Cow Disease) LT265/75R16E
 
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