twelve volt converter question

[surfbeetle]

We're out camping right now and our 12v lights are really fluctuating. My batteries are low so the converter must be cycling on and off. I turned off my batteries and expected the converter to power up the 12v and just stay on but it's still cycling on and off. I seem to remember it just staying on in the past when I would turn off the batteries. Any ideas? The trailer is 2004 Sprinter and the converter is a 'world friendship co' I know I'm going to have to replace the batteries but I want to make sure the converter is okay.
Thanks.

 

[RVTRKN]

Have you checked your 30amp service? I imagine that with a lot of AC's running your getting a fluctuation in the line voltage.

 

[crispyboy]

Have you checked the output from the converter to the batteries? Are you getting 13.6v when the converter is charging the batteries?
Could be that the batteries have shorted out internally if they are old. I have seen this cause odd behaviors with a charger.

 

[surfbeetle]

Now that I think of it, the trailer was doing the same thing on our last trip and also when plugged in at my house. When the converter is running voltmeter shows 13.6 volts. Also I have a kill switch that completely disconnects the batteries and the converter still fluctuates. I have two 6 volt golf cart batteries that are running together. They are old so they do need to be replaced soon.

 

[SnoKing]

Sounds like converter is on its way out! SNOKING

 

[AH64ID]

WFCO's are not quality converters, and it sounds like yours is failing.

Whatever the outcome DO NOT replace it with another WFCO. Progressive Dynamics makes plug and play replacements for several of the WFCO models. I have done this upgrade and the PD4655 is 10x the unit the WFCO was. It's quieter, charges faster, and will last longer.

If you still have a few days left on the trip I would disconnect the converter and put a 10A charger on the batteries until charged and then keep it on a 2A float.

You might not need new batteries, I would fix the converter issue first and go from there.

 

[TLane]

I have a WFCO converter and it will run just about everything without a battery. When the battery gets weak, the converter seems to fluctuate a lot as it goes into charge mode (higher voltage), then back to float mode (lower voltage). It can be really annoying as the lights go bright and dim, which is why I have a switch on the battery to disconnect it when I'm not traveling and connected to shore power. It sounds like yours may be overheating - the way mine is designed the fan circulates air inside the box the converter sits in, but doesn't do a very good job of pulling in outside air. You might try pulling the cover off and see if it's full of cobwebs and stuff. BE CAREFUL - high voltage is present under there!

 

[AH64ID]

When the battery gets weak, the converter seems to fluctuate a lot as it goes into charge mode (higher voltage), then back to float mode (lower voltage).

That's a good sign your converter is failing, even if it has done it since new.

 

[surfbeetle]

Thank you all for the responses. I did find an exact replacement on Amazon but now I will look at the power dynamics one instead. As for the battery charger, I forgot my battery charger at home so that's not an option. We only have a couple of days left, so no big deal. I have a week long trip dry camping soon so if the converter doesn't get replaced, we'll be using the generator with a battery charger and the solar panels to keep up the batteries.

 

[AH64ID]

What model is the WFCO?

 

[surfbeetle]

I looked at some power dynamics converters online. Is there just replacement converter or do I have to buy the whole thing and is there a specific part number for 55 amps? Thanks

 

[AH64ID]

There might be a replacement one that is plug and play with your current panel.

What is your WFCO model number?

 

[surfbeetle]

What model is the WFCO?

WFCO 'WF8955AN With Plastic' is the existing converter.

There might be a replacement one that is plug and play with your current panel.

What is your WFCO model number?

 

[AH64ID]

A PD4655 is a direct replacement.

http://progressivedyn.com/pd4600_converter_replacement.html

 

[Newt]

This http://www.bestconverter.com/Boondocker-Main-Board-Assembly-for-WFCO-8955_c_196.html is what you are looking for. Your converter was crap when it was new.

Newt

 

[AH64ID]

This http://www.bestconverter.com/Boondocker-Main-Board-Assembly-for-WFCO-8955_c_196.html is what you are looking for. Your converter was crap when it was new.

Newt

That's a good upgrade as well. I personally prefer the PD4655 because it had the wizard button to manually place it in boost mode for faster charging when boondocking.

Either is heads and tails above the OEM WFCO.

 

[p-Bar]

I would pull the batteries and load test them . As said above batteries could be shorted ,it's putting a strain on the converter. I think it's good to have a battery in the circuit to help regulation of the converter.

 

[surfbeetle]

Thank you for pointing me in the right direction. Sadly ît seems that the ecm on my truck died today so the converter has moved down the list. Hate to say it but life happens.

 

[Newt]

That's a good upgrade as well. I personally prefer the PD4655 because it had the wizard button to manually place it in boost mode for faster charging when boondocking.

Either is heads and tails above the OEM WFCO.

You don't need the button. Either will go into a high charge rate with a discharged battery.

I've had two trailers with a Progressive Dynamics converter with the Charge Wizard. I had another trailer I installed one of the multi stage conversions. They all operated the same. My current 5th wheel also has a digital 12V readout. You can tell when the lights brighten, the volt meter reads 14.3 volts. It's in the equalization mode.

Newt

 

[AH64ID]

Thank you for pointing me in the right direction. Sadly ît seems that the ecm on my truck died today so the converter has moved down the list. Hate to say it but life happens.

Well that sucks!!

What makes you think it died?

You don't need the button. Either will go into a high charge rate with a discharged battery.

I've had two trailers with a Progressive Dynamics converter with the Charge Wizard. I had another trailer I installed one of the multi stage conversions. They all operated the same. My current 5th wheel also has a digital 12V readout. You can tell when the lights brighten, the volt meter reads 14.3 volts. It's in the equalization mode.

Newt

No you don't need it, but it sure is nice for a quicker recharge when the voltage level doesn't make the charger go into boost mode.

If the batteries aren't low enough to trigger a boost charge they will only charge at 13.6V, which takes more time to recharge than at 14.4V. If you have hookups then it doesn't matter, but when you are recharging with a generator the added voltage does save time.

It really comes down to where/how you use your trailer. I generally only boondock so the button was a big plus.

Equalization mode occurs only from float, every 21 hours the voltage jumps to 14.4 for 15 minutes. It won't ever happen if you recharging with a generator unless you let the generator run for days on end.