twins?

[timelessconstructionllc]

I feel this overwhelming desire for twin turbos, mostly due to the fact that I tend tohammer on it and I want to keep my egts down. Problem is I don't know anything about turbos. If I am getting out of order here somebody please let me know. I wanna go bigger nozzles, dual cp3s, head studs. Any advice on turbos would be greatly appreciated or ifbtheres anything I need to do first.

 

[cerberusiam]

I feel this overwhelming desire for twin turbos

Uh oh!!! NOW you got the disease!!!



Its all down hill on a slippery slope now. :-laf:-laf

 

[ENafziger]

It really all depends on your end goals, budget, and timeframe.

Do you tow? How much? What power are you looking for? What's the budget? Do you want to fab your own setup? etc,etc

For just the general all around performer, I would probably recommend a set of Rip's twins, a 62 over 475 setup.

2003 - 2007 Dodge 5. 9L Cummins Twin Turbo Kit

Combined with some +100 - 150 hp injectors, head studs, and appropriate programming and transmission upgrades, you should have a solid 650 - 700 hp setup that is quick, fun to drive, and will pull almost anything you put behind it. Source automotive has a great rep, parts always fit, and quality is great.

If you want a more custom setup, Nathan at MPI is good, but you can't be in a hurry. If money is not a concern, I'd go with a set of Garrett BB twins from Harry at Peak Performance. (~7k - 9k)

--Eric

 

[timelessconstructionllc]

from looking at what i'm working with now would twins be a good next investment, (cause i'm not doing too great keeping egts down) or should i go with something else first. Cause i also want to get a helix cam and bigger nozzles but i know more fuel wont help matters any, as far as egts go.

 

[timelessconstructionllc]

cerburusiam, i realized that you were right when i started looking at prices and they turned out to be twice as much as i thought they were so without hesitation i started calculating how much longer it would take me to save up the money.



enafziger, i don't tow much but trying to find a 30" enclosed gooseneck at the moment, but all it will have in it is a bunch of tools. i quit trying to fight the itch, i want all the power i can get. the budget is not too great but i'll save up for however long i have to. Are any of the setups that include the stock turbo any good or are you better off getting a whole new system. I don't mind doing the fabrication of whatever i can myself, i'm a proficient welder, and i have a plazma cutter, what i mostly need now is knowledge of what setups do what etc

 

[cerberusiam]

cerburusiam, i realized that you were right when i started looking at prices and they turned out to be twice as much as i thought they were so without hesitation i started calculating how much longer it would take me to save up the money.

I know all about it, my wish list is well over $30k. :-laf Just can't justify spending that kind f money on my DD that I don't DD that much. Its fun to dream thoiugh.



The setups using the stock trubo are not too bad and are reasonably priced, comparitively that is. When you outgrow it, a little work will drop a better turbo in place of the stocker for more headroom.



Obviously a cam and injectors is going to benefit a lot and if you don't try to run it for the highest HP all the time will still allow towing and other uses. If you figure stock nozzles are good for around 600 HP, a set of 50-60 HP nozzles gives you enough growth to get to the point where the cost slope starts getting steep. Add a good CP-3 and good turbo then you may decide that is about right.



Just depends on individual tastes and pocketbook.

 

[timelessconstructionllc]

Thank you for the advice cerb. there's only one problem. i think i'm already attached to the twins. It's almost like they are my unborn children. but if a single turbo will do what i want then i guess i might be able to do that. i hope i'm not being redundant but just to clarify, do you think the next best step is a bigger turbo? I have hit 1400 degrees a few times before i realized i had done it and that makes me a little nervous. However, i had no gauges on my 05 and never backed out of it till i wanted to and it gave me no problems.

 

[cerberusiam]

You simply won't get a single that will perform with twins across the range of use and power. If you want to be able to play hard and work hard twins are almost mandatory. About expensive as twin kids also. :-laf



Depending on what you were running for timing, 1400 is not unusual on these trucks under heavy throttle. Spikes to that temp are genrally not bad as long as the constant under load will run around 1000. The extended time at those temps with advanced timing is the killer.



If you really want to go to twins and not layout the big bucks see about using the stocker and how much trouble it is to drop a better one in its place. That my plan at this point if I ever decide to go there.

 

[ENafziger]

i don't tow much but trying to find a 30" enclosed gooseneck at the moment, but all it will have in it is a bunch of tools. i quit trying to fight the itch, i want all the power i can get. the budget is not too great but i'll save up for however long i have to.

You may not want to hear this, but I'll be honest.

Unless you have a large budget and don't mind shelling out money continously, you need to set a realistic goal of about 650 hp max. This really is about the upper limit on hp that you can daily drive with (using common sense of course) and still use the truck as a truck. You're going to wear stuff out alot faster than if you keep it stock, but 650 hp with common sense is actually pretty reliable.

You need to have the transmission built for that power first... which I'm sure you've found out is going to be at least $4k +. After that, a small set of twins would really help keep temps down. Again, talk to Source Automotive, ED, maybe BD about their BD700 kit, etc. Don't go the cheap chinese route... I'd look used on CompD or CumminsForum. I got my 62/476 kit for ~ $2600 shipped but had to do a little fab work.

After the above is done, I'd recommend you do alot of reading on cams. I put a Helix 2 in mine. Do it yourself and save alot of money in labor. If I had researched some more, I think I would've gone with a different supplier for the cam. At any rate, it makes sense from the labor perspective to do head studs, valve springs, pushrods, and injectors at the same time as the cam install. I'd recommend bottom tapping for the studs as well. If you limit yourself to 60 lbs boost or so, the standard ARPs should be fine. Look at Exergy for injectors.

You need a RP gauge if you don't already have one. As far as dual cp3s, I don't think they're worth it. If you want any kind of reliability, you don't need to go above 650 hp... and the stock cp3 (some are stronger than others) can be good till almost that level. I'd recommend a modded single by Shane at Wicked, or John at Floor-It if you can get a firm commitment out of him.

If you don't have already, a Fluidampr and intake horn may be good to invest in, as well as a metal tube replacement for the cold side intercooler pipe.

--Eric

 

[RDeFayette]

Bottom line, Speed costs $MONEY$, how fast can you afford to go?

Read this, learn this, live this!

1st lesson I learned starting out in racing 30+ years ago!