Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Typical (sorta) Carter pusher pump install

[Gary - K7GLD]

With the commercial offerings of add-on fuel system upgrades, I thought it might be appropriate to post a home-grown setup that works well for a fair number of members here, and is relatively inexpensive compared to the commercial stuff - just under $100 in my case...



Here's the Carter 4500 based assembly ready to install - I have incorporated a fuel bypass line on mine to allow nearly full fuel flow around the Carter, in case it fails:



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And here is a pic of it installed on the inner frame rail just in front off the fuel tank:



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This install involves cutting out about 2 feet of the 3/8 stainless fuel line for insertion of the added pump. Power for the pusher comes from a keyed source inside the fuse panel on the driver's side of the instrument panel, and that power is controlled by a Radio Shack 12 volt relay that is wired across the power leads going to the stock lift pump mounted on the engine:



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This allows the added pusher pump to be controlled by the same computer function that operates the stock LP, but isolated electrically, and without the added current draw that pusher would create if it was to be powered directly from the same circuit that powers the stock pump.



To monitor fuel system operation, I have added Westach guages:



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... And use this method and location to operate the Fuel PSI guage:



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The mount for the electric sending unit is here:



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Another shot, showing both sender and firewall-mounted pusher relay:



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I've had this setup installed now for well over 30,000 miles without any fuel related problems - a good source for the Carter 4600 pusher pump is Jegs,



www.jegs.com



They currently sell for about $80 - up from about $70 when I first got mine, but still a good buy. The rest of the components are auto parts and hardware store items. This makes an easy afternoon project, and leaves you with an abundant fuel supply that will assure excellent lubrication and cooling flow to the VP-44 - my setup will provide 20+ PSI at idle, and maintain 15+ PSI under the heaviest load and steepest gardes - that with my Comp on 5x5, and towing our 5th wheel.



All in all, an economical and efficient alternative to some of the higher priced commercial units on the market... Oo.

 

[klaybus]

Pusher

Gary,

That looks like a pretty good setup. I just installed a new LP in the factory location & installed these new "Vulcan 3\8" straight fittings & 86'd all my banjos. I also cut into my fuel line below the LP & installed some 3\8" Hydraulic\fuel line. Now I have a 3\8" supply line, no banjos, & a 3\8" diameter supply going into the filter (I know a source of restriction) & up to the VP44. Next week I hope to relocate the LP to just in front of the fuel tank. With these new "Vulcan" fittings I cannot pull it under 12-13 PSI under WOT & maintain 14-15 PSI at 65 mph. 15-16 at idle. A great improvement from the stock setup. Anything above the OEM setup is an improvement IMHO.



Clay

 

[johnmcdn]

Has anyone used the 18psi Carter vane pump to replace their lift pump? Summit racing has the CRT-P4601HP for $90. My conversions' pressure is starting to drop and I am wondering if that is a way to go if I mounted it next to the fuel tank. for the price of these high end systems I could carry a spare and still be ahead.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

"Has anyone used the 18psi Carter vane pump to replace their lift pump?"



*I* wouldn't hesitate for a moment using one - it's the same pump, but with a different in/out thread - the stock LP is set up for banjo fittings, the regular 18 PSI Carter uses a tapered pipe thread.

 

[barbwire]

Gary,I was just looking at your system, and it seems like, IMO, that you would need a backcheck valve some where in that bypass hose. Wouldn't you? Otherwise, wouldn't the pump just continuosly circulate the fuel around and around the pump? Especially if the filter was somewhat restricted. Maybe I am all wet here, but it just appears that way to me. All other aspects look to be real well thought out, and very neat. Thanks for your efforts.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

"Gary,I was just looking at your system, and it seems like, IMO, that you would need a backcheck valve some where in that bypass hose. Wouldn't you? Otherwise, wouldn't the pump just continuosly circulate the fuel around and around the pump?"





YUP - and here it is:





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Another view:



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It's a simple home-made flopper valve that allows nearly full flow and PSI in the normal operation - and also nearly full flow AROUND the pump if it stops for any reason...

 

[Larry Willard]

I have a set up very similar to that, it has worked great for more than 60000 miles. I used a 3/8 ball check in the bypass, and bought a harness that is used on the early 24 valve trucks to splice into the factory lift pump wiring to act as the switch for activating he relay. I would guess my set up cost just a little over $100.

Larry