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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission u joint problems, what did i do wrong?

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Well I was putting my transmission back in after breaking a stock input shaft. I then was putting the drive shaft into place and the cap fell off ware it mounts to the rear axle and it didn't look good. So i went a bought 3 new U Joints and put them in. what a PITA... . 10 am till 6 pm and it's still not done. I don't have a press witch I'm sure that would make life easier. I used a vise and sockets to drive them out. Well i got to the last one and the F*cking cap split. What did i do wrong? Also the new joints seem really stiff, is that normal?
 
Kevin, It looks like one of the needle bearings fell between the cap and the joint causing the cap to break when you were pushing on it. Why did it take you so long?? Thanks Steve B.
 
I usually pull each new cap, wipe the clear chinese grease off, and smear with high quality grease of choice. Packing with grease like this keeps all the soldiers standing. Any guess why? See picture.



The stiffness is probably from the caps in too far. A wap with a dead blow at 90 degrees for each cap will spread them, giving them a little breathing room.
 
ctd8999 said:
Kevin, It looks like one of the needle bearings fell between the cap and the joint causing the cap to break when you were pushing on it. Why did it take you so long?? Thanks Steve B.





Hello Steve, I have never had such a problem with u joints in my life. These were a bugger. That's was my first thought also a needle fell down. Ohh well buy one more u joint and get r done.



Kevin
 
JPittinger said:
I usually pull each new cap, wipe the clear chinese grease off, and smear with high quality grease of choice. Packing with grease like this keeps all the soldiers standing. Any guess why? See picture.



The stiffness is probably from the caps in too far. A wap with a dead blow at 90 degrees for each cap will spread them, giving them a little breathing room.





I will try the bead blow, but the retainer clips only allow it to go so far?
 
Could happen to anyone

Sorry Silverram. Some days things just don't go right. Seems like you were doing everything properly, the cap just split. I've done more than I care to count the same way you describe and they're still in service. At the same time I'll tell ya, I was at my fav auto parts store where my bud does repair work on the side & he fielded a phone call that one of his recent u-joints from a cst. failed & was coming back. You're right PITA. Thx for the photos though, helps all of us to see more jobs than just the ones we do.



Good luck w/ the next one.
 
Kevin, The best thing to do when getting ready to R&R u-joints is to dip the shaft in diesel fuel before starting and the longer you let it sit in there is better. It really helps bust up the rust and soften crusty grease on the old joint. A dropped needle will split a cap almost every time but removing the new joint will be much easier than the original one. If you still have the shaft out I would also suggest you replace the velocity ball joint between the rear u-joints. It is the most common reason for front end vibration in 4x4 trucks when they get bad. They are a real pisser to get in but its better to do it now then getting the shaft back in and having a vibration there. If your up for a road trip bring it down and Ill get it done for you.



Chris
 
be easy on yourself and the shaft/joints by getting a balljoint/u-joint press. I paid $90 for mine at the local auto parts store. Did the U-joints in about 30 minutes. Way easier.



Like JPittinger said also, wipe the crappy grease out and put in some new with the gun and smear it all over. Helps hold them little buggers in. Also, there is enough movement in the clips to allow the cross to loosen up. It doesnt take a whole lot.
 
wildmanben said:
Also, there is enough movement in the clips to allow the cross to loosen up. It doesnt take a whole lot.

Yup, the clips keep the caps from moving out, but the stiffness is from caps that are too far in.
 
CSnyder said:
Kevin, The best thing to do when getting ready to R&R u-joints is to dip the shaft in diesel fuel before starting and the longer you let it sit in there is better. It really helps bust up the rust and soften crusty grease on the old joint. A dropped needle will split a cap almost every time but removing the new joint will be much easier than the original one. If you still have the shaft out I would also suggest you replace the velocity ball joint between the rear u-joints. It is the most common reason for front end vibration in 4x4 trucks when they get bad. They are a real pisser to get in but its better to do it now then getting the shaft back in and having a vibration there. If your up for a road trip bring it down and Ill get it done for you.



Chris





Chris, I did use some penetrating oil on it but next time ill remember the diesel fuel.



What is the velocity ball joint? This maybe??? LAST PIC



Road trip down there is out of the pic, transmission is in but not full of fluid yet and the drive shaft issues. Thanks for the offer.



Also i put a fish scale on the u joint to see how hard it was to move. about 16-18 pounds.







thanks for all the replies.
 
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Kevin, sorry for the delay in my answer. I actually was thinking you were doing the front shaft but there is no velocity ball joint in the rear shaft. Only in the front one. Sorry for any confussion there, Chris
 
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