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U-joint question

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shocks

Eagle Wheels on 2004

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Well today I heard the nasty thunk from park to reverse and from reverse to drive. And low and behold I now have a slight drive-line vibration. Gotta be a u-joint.



Question is should I be looking at aftermarket with grease fittings, or stick with oem. Im getting my dtt installed in the next week or two and it will be easy to just replace them both at that time, so I've got that going for me.
 
The joints are covered under the 7/70 warranty, but the $100 deductible is more than two aftermarket joints would cost. Personally I like greaseable. Precision 295 is the one for auto's.
 
Thanks, since I'm getting the new transmission and have the banks on it I figured hell with the dealer I'll warranty this fix. ;) Still with 34000 and VERY little towing Im kind of surprised to have u'ee problem.



By the way cattle how do you like the Rickson 19. 5's. Ive been eyeballing those babies myself. I just dont "need" them but I dont even "need a diesel". c I just like the way they sound!!!
 
I've had a nasty case of launch shudder since the truck was new. We tried up and down with the hanger. Down was better, up was worse, but nothing made it go away. A couple weeks ago my center joint went out and the hanger was all blowed up. Dealer replaced the back 2 joints (I have three), the rearmost of which I had already replaced and they warrantied it nonetheless :D . Turns out that the middle joint which was still factory had an indentation from a needle bearing in the cap. Meaning the needle was fubar'd at initial assembly. Somehow it managed to last 54K. Now my launch shudder it all but gone, definently liveable now. I wouldn't be surprised to see "u'ee" failure at any mileage.



The rickson 19. 5's are awesome. I got steel to save money. I love the Mich XDE's in snow and ice, but they ain't much in mud. Next time I'll probably go with a simple highway tread. These suckers howl like mad. On a 2500, I'd definently go with aluminum (classics are my favorite if I remember right).
 
Just replace the front u joint at 457,000 center at 225,000 and at 425,000. Back one is still stock. some are better then others. oh hanger is still stock. good luck

Dave

99 3500 2wd
 
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barepa said:
Just replace the front u joint at 457,000 center at 225,000 and at 425,000 back one is still stock.

Ya know, this new math just doesn't work for me sometimes. What kind of adapter do you need to put 457K on the front joint while the rear only gets 425K? :rolleyes:



100 Proof
 
Fixed it, can you read it now. didn,t know you were a grammer teacher. I will try harder next time,100 proof.

thanks Dave
 
I left Moran for the Sierra Trading Post Memorial day sale in Cody. In Red Lodge I felt the "lope" in 1st and 2nd that meant u-joint was toast -- 38K :( . How disappointing after many miles of no problems on my other two CTDs, i. e. this is my first CTD problem. Pulled into Yellowstone Country Motors (YCM) in Livingston at 1630 and they changed the u-joint, buzzing speaker, and did the weather strip TSB.



I spent the time with a salesman looking at a Sprinter Van. Gee, I'd like to have one for a campmobile. Turns out he use to contract build trail in the Cascades and Hells Canyon = much talk about horses, mules, and building trails. :)



They didn't charge me a dime even though it was past 36K. Some folks are just better than others and that is why I highly recommend YCM for both vehicle prices and service. :)
 
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