U-joint's and strengths

["Mad Max"]

So I'm going to be using a '79 Dana 60 dually front, originally from a gasser 1-ton, to use under the front end of my Cummins, and the u-joint for that D60 is quite a bit smaller than the ones used on our CTD's, and I'm wondering if anyone has swapped out the yokes on an early D60 to the newer '93-ish style, and if there are any part numbers for front yokes handy?

The u-joint for the D70 and D80 that I have is a lot bigger, but is there a corresponding strength increase?



Much' grass' amigos,

- Sam

 

[Greenleaf]

I'll be staight up whitch yah. I don't know.



However, the units employed on these Cummins powered buses are much larger than whats on our trucks.





Nutt'n like the joints used behind a Detroit Grease-all 149 which I held the "shaft" in place with an overhead crane, while changing out joints. Thats fun w/a capital F.



-S

 

[JLEONARD]

a lot bigger, but is there a corresponding strength increase?

Sam,

If the bearings and the "legs" of the cross (spider) are larger, then yes, there is a strength increase.

The larger ID bearing can support more load, and the larger spider legs will be stronger..... the assumption here is that the spiders are made from the same materials, same specs, etc.

The question is of course, how over designed the smaller D 60 is and can it handle what you intend to dish out.

I design steering intermediate shafts that use universal joints... look in a 94 and up Dodge Ram for example and you'll see one of Timken's products... generally speaking the cross is one of the stronger components of the system... we only upsize it for a significant change in loading.

Hope this helps.

Jay.

 

["Mad Max"]

Sounds good Jay and Scott, thanks. I was always kind of wondering just how much power our 'Cummins' u-joints are good to, because I don't think I've ever read in here of anyone blowing a u-joint (I'm knocking on real wood right n-o-w). So I'll just get corresponding joints from a 93 Cummins dana 60 front, and I have to do custom length drive shafts anyways, so that should do it.



Something else. I noticed on my buddy TJ's rig - he has the mated 205 to his auto, and in order to do that it makes the transfer case slightly tilted towards the back - same angle as the engine/trans are, ja? This in turn makes the angle-of-the-dangle of the rear shaft a nice nearly zero-angle balance which adds up to no, none, rear shaft vibration. BUT, in order for the front shaft to have a good angle/dangle ratio his rig has a (I don't know what to call it exactly) but it looks like a real beefy double jointed CV housing. Now, the front output shaft from the t-case is actually aiming up towards the front bumper, but the double-jointed shaft seems to nicely account for the awkward front angle to go down to the front axle. So, anyone know or can add any insight into the front axle shaft pro's and con's and maybe what to look out for, or is that how it is done? Nice and simple if it is, and it's factory - and I'm learning that the factory had their collective s--t together when it came to drivetrain, ja?



Gracias amigos,

- Sam

 

[chef]

CTM's will hold i'm sure. Treated, brass bushings instead of needle bearings. Pricey, strong.

 

["Mad Max"]

my bad chef - CTM's? Critical Torque Metal??

 

[Paychk]

These thingys



http://www.ctmracing.com/axle.shtml#

 

[TKingsbury]

CTMs claim they are unbreakable and "may be" the last u-joint you'll buy is a little misleading. I've seen broken CTMs. If you use a CTM with a stock axle, the axle will break before the joint, but will most likely ruin the joint. If you use hardened axles, one or the other will break and will kill the other. Also, I believe they are only intended for axle shafts and not driveshafts. If you are a normal guy you may never break one, but the guys I know like to run 40s with really low gears. Go to a rock crawling comptition and you will see how CTMs are broken. With this said, they are a large step forward in durability and you can see the quality when you hold one.

Travis. .

 

[bgilbert]

Sam have ya looked at the pinion size on our 70's vs. an 80 lets say? The 70 pinion is tinny compared to the 80. We will break the pinion before we break a genuine Spicer u-joint IMO. Just buy Spicer joints and be done with it.

 

[Greenleaf]

In the oil field, where we ran the rigs through the mud, I never had encountered a broken joint. The drive shaft tube will twist. Along with the wheel spinning on the rim, tearing the valve stem loose.



More fun.



Scott

 

[JLEONARD]

Just buy Spicer joints and be done with it

That would be my suggestion as well. I think you want needle bearings due to the speed the shaft will be turning. And the load stays fairly constant not changing as the axles drop and change angles as in rough terrain driving so you don't need the brute strength of the specialty u-joints.

That's my o pinion.

Jay

 

[PSU-CE]

I have changed to the larger joint in my 60 front. Truck is a puller only. You need to change the pinion yoke and the slip yoke on the driveshaft, and definitly go with the non-greasable Spicer joints. Got mine through a shop in PA. PM me if you want the number.

 

["Mad Max"]

got 'em ordered - thanks fellas

Thanks fellas - I ordered the '93 front yoke for the diesel from Drive Line Service here in the 'Springs. 'Aught to do the trick. I'm also taking the gasser Spicer u-bolt-style yoke that was on the diff and putting it on the other d60 that's going in my '78 Ramcharger - it's a 400 big block and will exactly match the t-case and transmission that was originally behind the dually diff.



... ... that probably just confused the heck outta everybody. . but it makes sense to me, sort of... ...



- S

 

[JLEONARD]

but it makes sense to me,

As long as you get the yoke Sam... . :-laf :-laf