U-Joints available aftermarket???

[_Hyde]

I've got a U-joint going out on my '03. It's not all that bad right now but it needs to be done soon. I could take it to the ******* and be out of my truck for a day or two to have it done under warranty (maybe). So far I've struck out on finding an aftermarket replacement and the local ******* wants $76. 00 for it. This is a little tough to swallow as we just picked up one for my friend's phord for $10. 00 at the Zone. So far I've exhausted a few local independents, Pep Boys, Auto Zone, and O'Reilly's. Any suggestions as to where I might find it? I'm in Dallas so there's a few heavy truck parts suppliers but I don't want to go on any more of a wild goose chase than I've already been on. And I really don't want to take it to have done at the dealer for an hours worth of work on what should be a $10-30 part.



Hyde

 

[chi440]

Did the $76 joint on memorial day weekend - Mid Sept, while changing oil and servicing - found front outer drive axle joints - extremely loose and another vibration developing in the rear shaft - did not feel loose yet but it had to be the other joint going - took the occasion to have all the joints replaced, tires replaced and power increased - the expensive way :-laf - see sig... .



Check ALL of your joints and use the warranty - there was a real problem with these joints - do a search and you will find all kinds of info in the 3G threads here...

 

[_Hyde]

Well I guess I'm one of the ask first search later types. Glad I'm not the only one who has had this problem. Haven't looked over my warranty paperwork to confirm but it sounds like to have the DEALER ( as opposed to aforementioned blanked out pseudonym) so it will cost me a $100 deductible. Not an option I was happy about if it was free let alone costing me my truck for a day and $100. Anyone out there that can elaborate on the grinding involved with the repair on this thread https://www.turbodieselregistry.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=86223



One of my local suppliers has the joint in this thread in stock. Not all that comfy in grinding on a u-joint but if it works without repercussion I'll do it.



To any DC Nazis that might be lurking: This is something that you guys need to handle up on. I trade every 2-3 years and buy a new truck and since 1994 its been Dodge. I haven't had to replace a u-joint on anything since the 1988 F150 I had prior to that and it had 107K on it when I got it in 1990. It was abusive budweiser miles at that. To have to replace a U-joint at 43K is nothing less than absurd without heavy towing or abusive, submerging 4WD usage. And I wouldn't even complain about replacing this part if it was available aftermarket. But I guess that's the plan to sell more parts at the severely inflated prices. This would be a non-issue had I not just replace the same part on the phord for $10 from the Zone but I did so now I have a case of you should have bought a phord to deal with. Maybe a should have. Rant mode off.



Hyde

 

[chi440]

Thats what I was told ($100 deductable Powertrain Warranty) - however there were some dealers - reportedly - that waived the $100 deductable - good dealers are hard to find



Mine fell in the 45-50k mile range with moderate towing - 98% - +- running empty on the highway with a SO 250/460



Hope the joints are better on the 04. 5 - the 325/600 should test that theory...

 

[GSaltzman]

Dealer replaced both u-joints on rear driveshaft this past week. I asked and they waived the $100 deductible. It took a week before they recieved the new u-joints.

 

[_Hyde]

Went to a truck parts shop today that has a driveline shop and the guy came out and said it was a Neapco 3-0188. Said he'd bet me the cost of the joint that it was the one. Easy bet if they have a good return policy I guess. Well I tried it and it was about 50%. It fit on the flange that bolts to the axle but the cross wouldn't fit into the yoke on the driveshaft. At this point I thought I'd try the grinding routine. The cross was about . 080 wider than OEM so I ground it down to the same dimension as the stock part just for grins since I'd already installed the cups into the flange. Still wouldn't fit, its the shoulder on the cross that's the problem. Oh well there's about $30. 00 down the drain. I called the $chtealers that were supposed to have the part in stock to check for a price, $125 & $152. The one that gave me the $76 price was closed already. Thinking I'll call the dealer I bought the truck from to check their price and availability tomorrow but they are about 70 miles away and I'll be sharing the wife's ride as well. In hindsight I should have just sucked up being out of the truck for a day or two by taking it in to have it done under warranty. DC has the market cornered on this one for sure. Gave myself the big green weenie on this. I'm just hoping my dealer has the part, they give our local club a break on parts. I needed a trim ring for the fog lights and the closest dealer wanted $50 for it and they gave it to me for $28. The closest dealer also happens to be the one wanting $152 for the u-joint. Sometimes being your own warranty station just doesn't pay off.



Hyde

 

[BRayls]

are they available??

 

[rbattelle]

Hyde,



How about if you do have to have the dealer replace the U-joints you ask to have them prior to installation. Then install grease fittings in the end caps and let the dealer install. Would this help longevity? Is this possible?



-Ryan

 

[_Hyde]

I ended up getting one from the dealer for almost $90. 00. I thought about adding a grease fitting but the cross isn't drilled through to allow it. A lot of work to make it happen. I did re-grease the cups prior to install since the failure appeared to be a lube failure. Hopefully a reasonably priced aftermarket part is available soon.



Hyde

 

[realsquash]

There are two designs of joint from NAPA. One has little "bumps" on the cross that make it almost impossible to get into the yoke. The other ones fit really nice, you just have to knock a tiny bit off the inside corners of the yoke to get them in.



If you had problems with it you'll notice the difference as soon as you see the other design.



Andy

 

[Boonieman]

The web address below is AC Delco and they show a listing for u-joints for my Dodge truck. I also copy/pasted a partial list of the catalog descriptions which describes the joint and the associated AC Delco part number. Not sure about prices, but it looks to me like they have them.



http://www.acdelco.com/html/catalog/index.htm



2003 DODGE RAM 3500 PICKUP L6 5. 9L 359cid DIESEL FI T Engine VIN = C

Qty Req Qty ACDelco Part# Description

DRIVETRAIN / UNIVERSAL JOINT

01 45U0106 JOINT KIT,PROP SHF UNIVERSAL -

DOUBLE CARDAN JOINT; 2 REQUIRED FRONT SHAFT CV AT TRANSFER CASE PREMIUM 4 WHEEL DRIVE

01 45U0108 JOINT KIT,PROP SHF UNIVERSAL -

FRONT SHAFT AT FRONT AXLE PREMIUM 4 WHEEL DRIVE

01 45U0110 JOINT KIT,PROP SHF UNIVERSAL -

FRONT SHAFT AT FRONT AXLE HIGH STRENGTH (GREASEABLE) 4 WHEEL DRIVE

01 45U0115 JOINT KIT,PROP SHF UNIVERSAL -

DOUBLE CARDAN JOINT; 2 REQUIRED FRONT SHAFT CV AT TRANSFER CASE HIGH STRENGTH (GREASEABLE) 4 WHEEL DRIVE

01 45U0136 JOINT KIT,PROP SHF UNIVERSAL -

 

[_Hyde]

That's a handy little tidbit of information. I'll have to look into that a little further.



Thanks,



Hyde

 

[BRayls]

researching this ,I found that ac does make a joint for the '03 . however the local dealer told me the rear shaft ,in the long bed cc 2500 , has 3 joints which I know is correct . and that all 3 are the same,also a known. he told me the book shows the part number for the rear shaft to be 45 U 0304 priced at 16. 60 each. these are the high strength u-joints which he said have the zirks in the cap to lube them. also showing a low stregth one for around 13 bucks.

 

[realsquash]

I just found the pix I took when I swapped my ujoints. This is the 351 joint that you want fron NAPA next to the stock one. The little nubs on the cross near the cap's grease seal are fatter on the other design...



351=spicer 1480

188=spicer 1350 design, very common, smaller than the 1480.



Andy

 

[fj40charles]

I get all of my ujoints from Jess at High Angle Driveline in Paradise, CA.

www.highangledriveline.com



This guy is real nice and knows his stuff. He also makes some really nice custom driveshafts. I use his shafts on my 69 FJ40 Land Cruiser.

 

[Blakers]

Front axle u-joint

FRONT SHAFT AT FRONT AXLE HIGH STRENGTH (GREASEABLE) 4 WHEEL DRIVE

01 45U0115 JOINT KIT,PROP SHF UNIVERSAL -

DOUBLE CARDAN JOINT; 2 REQUIRED -

I need a front axle U-joint for my 03 CTD. All these numbers are confusing. What joint have people been using and what is KNOWN to work? Napa, Spicer, etc? Thanks.

 

[Tim]

I get all of my ujoints from Jess at High Angle Driveline in Paradise, CA.

www.highangledriveline.com



This guy is real nice and knows his stuff. He also makes some really nice custom driveshafts. I use his shafts on my 69 FJ40 Land Cruiser.

I'll 2nd this. Jesse sponsored my truck with two beefy as hell drivelines. He is the KING! Give him a call.

 

[jwduke]

I'll 2nd this. Jesse sponsored my truck with two beefy as hell drivelines. He is the KING! Give him a call.

I'll third this one, I have a front drive shaft from him in my '87 Chevy 4x4! He DOES KNOW HIS STUFF!!

 

[4 wheelssmoking]

Hyde; check a Spicer dealer for p# SP5-188X it is a replacement for rear u joints with a zerk fitting. Also do a search on 3dr gen eng & trans for "rear u-joints". RAY