Archived u Joints??? Help...truck grounded...

[marktn]

New guy here... .



I have a 2004 Diesel, 4x4 with 22. 5K miles 6 speed, med towing, jacked up 4 inches with 35" tires.



Just had the ball joints replaced by Dodge last week. $$



Just in the last 50 miles something when wrong (truck is grounded until fixed, hello rental car. )



1) Truck chugs (a slight/mod virbation like tire is out of round) at low speeds 0-10, faster a bit of whine at 30mph, go faster the other noises drowns the whine out.



2) Seem less chugging while turning, alot more while going straight. This is all parking lot speeds.



3) U-joints seem tight when pushing and pulling on the drive shaft.



4) There IS grease slung on underbody around front u joint.



5) Output shaft from transfer case (rear) has 1/8" play axisial play.



6) With truck on jacks (one wheel airbourn) turning wheel has a "Hard Spot" (harder to turn) when the DRIVESHAFT reaches the same rotational position.



7) Something for later... . but where's my positrack/antislip rear end. Most car with posi when on wheel up, and the other stopped it is difficult to turn. Build sheet has anti-spin listed.



thanks for any knowledge on this problem.



regards,

mark



-- email address removed --

 

[DrDiesel]

You need to focus on one problem @ a time.

The rear diff is not a posi. It`s a limited slip and only engages when one wheel slips under load from the drive-shaft.

Focus on the rotational issue. That sounds like your problem @ hand. You`ll need to isolate it down to the causal part. This might require drive-shaft removal too. Happy hunting.

 

[Joe Mc]

I suggest in the future not taking your truck to the dealer for issues such as u-joint replacement. If you can't do it on your own then find a reputable drive line shop and let them do what they do best. They will have a balancing machine in the event that there may be a balance issue with a shaft, where as a dealer will not. Most dealer mechanics are very well rounded and should be able to perform a simple u-joint replacement. However, if they took a break in the middle of the job, or were distracted (Service Manager "What the h_ll is taking so long with this job!?), and didn't index (mark) the shaft for proper reassembly before even removing it from the truck, they very easily could have reassembled the shafts 180 out. If not reassembled properly (180 out) you could have vibration issues. Another possibility if they bound one of the joints (a needle bearing fell in behind the joint cap) and they had to use excessive force to push the cap far enough in to install the clips - you'll get a tight spot too. Revisit the dealer and let them know of your binding issue - you've paid, handsomely I'm sure, for a job that created a problem that wasn't present before they "fixed" your truck. Refuse to pay any more $, let them know, in a nice fashion, that you belong to a membership of 20,000+ people that own only Dodge Turbo Diesels and you appreciate their efforts to correct something that obviously was not present upon you delivering to them for a routine "U-joint" replacement.



Best regards - keep us posted.

 

[LEPage]

I don't think he said he had the U-Joints replaced, He said Ball Joints. The issue with the U-Joints in these trucks seems to be (per my personal exp. ) that they aren't well greased from new & they get dry & freeze up. So, going by what you're saying, I'd replace them. You can have it done under warranty & know that it'll need done again, or buy good replacements like Precission & do it one time and be done, as long as you grease them. I had mine done under the $100 deductible the first time (40K), the second (87K) time I did it myself for less than $80. If you really want to do it right, might as well do the joints in the front axle half shafts, as well, 'cause they are the same junk. I've noticed tire wear when the axle joints are bound up.

 

[drrhoades]

It sounds like the driveshaft is binding due to excessive angles in the driveline. You have a 4 inch lift. Was anything done to compensate for that?

 

[Joe Mc]

You know what there LEPage, you're right he did say ball joints - however the title of the thread was "u Joints??? Help... truck grounded... " then as he spoke about the wheel turning and a shaft binding - I guess I got carried away. Fortunately drrhoades was on his game and caught the 4" lift deal. Which, I have to agree once again it's all in the angle of the dangle . If nothing was done other than installing the components of the lift the geometry could be out of wack.

 

[marktn]

fix

Rear u joint was Saraha dry. Pieces of the needle bearing fell out along with a pile of black dust. Single piece drive shaft.



At 22K I think the weekly plus dunkings in the lake to launch the boat put the premature death to the u joint.



One would hope the new seals will work better, bought 351's with grease fittings.



With 100 dollar press from Northern all when fine with the exception that the "C" clip are a couple three mils too thick. Easily milled with a file.



thanks for the inputs.



m

 

[Joe Mc]

Might want to check/change your rear diff oil . . . .