U-Joints

[jelag]

Over the years I've owned many Ram 3500 trucks... the 2013 is my latest and I noted again today as I changed fluids and filters that my u-joints don't have grease fittings... on my older trucks, in the neighborhood of 100K I'd pull them down and replace them with grease able joints... We tow and travel so its important to do this service when we're at home and I have time to take the truck apart and change the parts instead of being dependent on some shop on the road...

Knowing this.... should I stick to my usual 100K miles for this service or have some of you with the same kind of use had different experiences... nothing is worse than letting something go and having a "on the road repair"

I've noticed on the other trucks.... that I can't physically move the joints and feel the play like you can in a light truck or passenger car... GEEZ am I dating my self here... anyway your thoughts would be helpful..

 

[Ozymandias]

Those sealed u-joints can last incredibly long, the newer the longer.
A proven reliable technology now after some bumps when the industry started with them 2 decades ago.
No need to install greasable ones, no benefit from them.

I check mine regularly and replace if i see some red stripes around the cups from rust.
As long as they have no play and no signs of rust i leave them alone.

If you want to replace precautionary then i would recommend to do it with new sealed units, that's what i do.

 

[JR]

I personally prefer the sealed joints. They are stronger and have better seals than serviceable units. On my gen 2 trucks I ended up going back to the sealed OEM Spicer units because I got longer service intervals out of them than the greaseable. If you are concerned, you can always drop your driveshaft and inspect each joint. If they are smooth and rotate freely I personally wouldn't replace them.

 

[gsbrockman]

With the advent of the frame and axle improvements of the 3500’s beginning in 2013, I would not routinely replace any of the u-joints based on your previous schedule.

Although my previous 2014 RAM 3500 was used almost exclusively on highway, my front axle u-joints were still good at 268,791 miles when I had my installer tear down the front end for replacement of a noisy L/F unit bearing.

Since my time was/is important, I opted to do the unit bearings in pairs. Since my time was/is important, I decided I’d be nuts to NOT replace the axle u-joints with the degree of tear-down involved in doing the unit bearings.

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/...-flyer-2014-ram-3500-tradesman-drw-4x4-3.html

 

[TCDiesel]

When it comes to sealed Joints/bearings its simple.

Grease able units seal allow leakage...But if you keep them greased they will last forever if NOT abused

Seal units are stronger and will take more abuse

If you like greasing ( Grease able units ) regularly they are reliable and trust worthy.

Conditions have a huge impact on Joints bearing/joints If water enters the matting surfaces it will destroy the seal unit in short order with no way of stopping it, the grease able unit you can force the water out.

Live in MN with the chemicals MNDOT sprays on the roads will destroy any comprised units.

Say out of the water, I see people drive thru standing water, I see them Bury their rear Axle in boat launches all the time at MN lakes when its not necessary.

You had better follow Ozy's recommendation on sealed units.

Here's some picture of the drive Bearing on My Apex Snowmobile, You can see the rust and what's left of the bearing, it destroyed the speedo Sensor so the repair add $113.00 and two days lost Riding here at West Yellowstone MT.

 

[DonFitzwater]

View attachment 111857 View attachment 111858 When it comes to sealed Joints/bearings its simple.

Grease able units seal allow leakage...But if you keep them greased they will last forever if NOT abused

Seal units are stronger and will take more abuse

If you like greasing ( Grease able units ) regularly they are reliable and trust worthy.

Conditions have a huge impact on Joints bearing/joints If water enters the matting surfaces it will destroy the seal unit in short order with no way of stopping it, the grease able unit you can force the water out.

Live in MN with the chemicals MNDOT sprays on the roads will destroy any comprised units.

Say out of the water, I see people drive thru standing water, I see them Bury their rear Axle in boat launches all the time at MN lakes when its not necessary.

You had better follow Ozy's recommendation on sealed units.

Here's some picture of the drive Bearing on My Apex Snowmobile, You can see the rust and what's left of the bearing, it destroyed the speedo Sensor so the repair add $113.00 and two days lost Riding here at West Yellowstone MT.View attachment 111856

That bearing went because those Yamahas weigh a metric ton! I used to have turbo’d nytros and Apex mountains and just made it a standard practice to replace jack shaft and driveshaft bearings every 1500 miles. By 2000 miles one of the 4 was ready to grenade.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Both 98 12V trucks I have owned have original U joints at 400k, my GM C20 the same at well over 400 and current 01 with 128k.

 

[Shiner]

I personally prefer the sealed joints. They are stronger and have better seals than serviceable units. On my gen 2 trucks I ended up going back to the sealed OEM Spicer units because I got longer service intervals out of them than the greaseable. If you are concerned, you can always drop your driveshaft and inspect each joint. If they are smooth and rotate freely I personally wouldn't replace them.

Amen, greaseable, not as strong. Many times, we had failures of the aftermarket, greasable joints, then went back to OEM.

 

[TCDiesel]

That bearing went because those Yamahas weigh a metric ton! I used to have turbo’d nytros and Apex mountains and just made it a standard practice to replace jack shaft and driveshaft bearings every 1500 miles. By 2000 miles one of the 4 was ready to grenade.

Don Yep, that Bearing is aftermarket and went 3300 miles. I've spent over $5K lightening up My Apex. its a beast now... Your right don't get stuck.....still.....

I was going to change it this season but it check out last Nov.....Famous Saying Just one more ^&&^%.

 

[Shiner]

Don Yep, that Bearing is aftermarket and went 3300 miles. I've spent over $5K lightening up My Apex. its a beast now... Your right don't get stuck.....still.....

I was going to change it this season but it check out last Nov.....Famous Saying Just one more ^&&^%.

At least you can say you got the goody out of it.