U010C - Lost Communication With Turbocharger/Supercharger Control Module "A"

[vindiesel]

Ok - So...I have this cel that just won't go away (U010C). I cannot find anything online to help me identify and fix this issue. I have no other cel's, just this one. I don't know how to test my turbo, or if there is a fuse to check, or what is happening. I really need some of you GURU's to help me to troubleshoot this thing, as I don't want to spend upwards of 5k on a turbo if I don't need to.
My truck seems to be driving fine, no loss of power or any indicator that it is not functioning as designed. I did pull the EGR and clean that over the weekend.


2O13 RAM 2500
SLT - My daily driver

 

[salerno]

How good are your batteries and your battery connections? Reason I'am asking is I had a U1421 code and one of my batteries was running low when my truck would sit causing the voltage to drop. These newer trucks run on half the voltage they use to and any fluctuations in voltage can cause the U codes. I don't know how true it is but this is how it was explained to me. Hope this helps. I know it's not the same code but maybe you can start there.

 

[sag2]

This should help.

 

[vindiesel]

Thanks everybody for the response - I ended up taking the truck to a Diesel mechanic in Hutto and he pulled the actuator and sent it off to be rebuilt, said the turbo was fine. The truck has been in the shop for a week now and with the x-mas holiday upon it looks like it won't be fixed until after the holiday. I'll post an update as soon as I get final confirmation.

 

[Ozymandias]

I hope you have the latest software update on your ECM, with the truck running as always fine it sounds to me like an electronics glitch.

There are countless updates an TSBs out for 2013 and up.

To me, everyone with a Gen4 should first go to a dealer and let update it before starting to throw hardware at it.
Mopar changes electronics parameters unbelievable often to address such problems.

 

[ChrisW98]

Easy check. Unplug 4 pin connrction from turbo actuator, With key on chech for good 12volts. At pins 1 and 4 with volt meter. If 12volts test with test light. Should be bright. If dim then voltage is not good even if miters show 12v. If okay. With key off check pin 2 to 3 should be 60 ohm. - or + 5 ohms. If all checks good replace actuator. If any test bad. Check wires from ECM. pins and sockets should be free from corrosion or loose tension. My 2 cents

 

[vindiesel]

Thanks for all of the responses, I appreciate it. I did get my truck back and it was the actuator. The mechanic pulled the actuator and shipped it off somewhere to be rebuilt. I got the truck back yesterday. I'm disappointed in one thing, he cut out part of my wheel well to do the work on the actuator instead of just pulling the wheel well off. now I have a clear view of my actuator.

 

[Too Tall]

Thanks for all of the responses, I appreciate it. I did get my truck back and it was the actuator. The mechanic pulled the actuator and shipped it off somewhere to be rebuilt. I got the truck back yesterday. I'm disappointed in one thing, he cut out part of my wheel well to do the work on the actuator instead of just pulling the wheel well off. now I have a clear view of my actuator.

Well look at it on the bright side, your oil filter is in full view also. Should make it easy to get to.

 

[jessehuckeby]

Easy check. Unplug 4 pin connrction from turbo actuator, With key on chech for good 12volts. At pins 1 and 4 with volt meter. If 12volts test with test light. Should be bright. If dim then voltage is not good even if miters show 12v. If okay. With key off check pin 2 to 3 should be 60 ohm. - or + 5 ohms. If all checks good replace actuator. If any test bad. Check wires from ECM. pins and sockets should be free from corrosion or loose tension. My 2 cents

I have 12 to pin 1 but nothing to pin 4 what’s next?

 

[markam]

Take a look at the attached pdf.

 

[Ozymandias]

Yeah, all runs within the BUS System, clever.
Dont touch that wires unless you know exactly what are you doin.

 

[markam]

OK...have not had a code for the past three days. Still have not had time to install the new actuator. Drove 80 miles on the freeway last night and put it away. Went and started it up this morning and went down the driveway, turned up the street and no turbo boost. Feels like it is in limp mode. made it up the driveway but just barely. NOT A CODE INSIGHT. No U010C, nothing just no power. S**T!

 

[markam]

The EB seems to be stuck full on. Engine is muffled. No power. Codes are pending? Not showing as active. No CEL.

 

[markam]

OK...HELP....
I got the old actuator off and plugged in the Brand New not rebuilt actuator. Hooked up the OBDLink and AlphaOBD running on Android. Got to the turbo initialization and pressed Start.
Failed. Conditions not correct or Request sequence error.

Now what?

 

[FamilyRam]

I’m having a similar problem intermittently with that dtc also. Fortunately, every time it’s happened after about 5-10 minutes something switched/changed and things ran like normal. I’d love a solution too. I haven’t checked the plug at the turbo actuator yet.

 

[markam]

Mine ran fine until it didn't.
I found a P003A code that needed clearing and then the actuator initialization process was completed using the AlphaOBD app. Truck is back on the road as of last night.