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Competition Ultimate Pulling Drivetrain

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Competition Well its not 1000HP but its getting there!

Competition Piers Dynomania 2003!!!!

Let's hear it fellows. If you could start from scratch building a pulling truck with any 1 ton or smaller parts, what would you use? Engine (mods?), transmission (clutch, convertor, mods?), transfercase, front and rear axles (gears and lockers?), driveshafts, tires (size and type), etc.



Any and all opinions wanted.
 
Hey John...



Sleddy told me of your plight tonite on the phone and I got just the fix for your dilemma... ...



Jack up the radiator cap of your current ride way high in the air. Next roll a good quality,properly valved,5 spd,ext cab Dodge under and slowly let the cap back down. Then call the local salvage yard and rid,oops,I mean excorsise yourself of all knowledge of ever owning a Phord.



Look at it this way...

Instead of Sleddy train lengthing you all the time,he will be tired of seeing YOUR tailgate for a change and wouldn't that be refreshing and a load off your shoulders. . LOL. Heck I may even buy you your first "Dodge/Cummins" jacket... ... ..... Andy



P. S. -Glad to hear your opting to come east for a play day.
 
No Secrets

Well I am a total novice to pulling, but am planning to build a puller when I get another truck.



I planning on a 12v Cummins, manual with streetable dual disc--no disrespect to the great auto-trannies, cold-air, injectors just as big as the large single turbo can take, pump timed aggressively and uprated internally as necessary, flow work on head, camshaft, three-piece manifold, 4" exhaust into 5" stacks, ladder bars.



:D made myself drool...
 
early 70,s dodge power wagon with a floater 205 transfer case and dual dana 70's and then just add a cummins and 5 or 6 speed.
 
Any old 12-valve block, girdled, studded, balanced reciprocating assy. , any old pistons - fly cut of course, BIG cam, billet head - with enormous valves (we only need 12 to make power!!)



tubular exhuast, BIG insanely huge compounded twins, big honkin external wastegate.



pump worked over by someone... . , EDM injectors worked over by someone.....



NV4500 with the good shafts, and a dual disk clutch from someone.....



carbon fiber driveshafts - just because they'd look neat when you grenaded them, big u-joints.



Custom Dana-80 front axle, Dana-135 rear axle - stuff with 4. 10's - so you can still drive it on the street.



Pro-Fab xfer case... .



Oh yeah - and a set of new Mickey Thompson's..... :)



Matt
 
Keep it at about 750hp, concentrate on hooking it.

Everybody over that hp as had horendous problems this year.



Except for one, he had all his problems last year. ;)
 
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=77512&perpage=15&pagenumber=1



^Three turbo's.



The biggest challenge, is putting the power down without breaking. You need enough traction, and strong enough parts to not grenade your truck.



Look at Gene, He's not the Fastest, or most powerfull truck out there, but he can full pull at almost every event he attends. He's not breaking, and he's putting the power down.



My truck will soon be over 800HP, but it's the drivetrain that's not holding up.

So far the ATS is holding up, and the T-Case is still being experimented with.



Merrick Cummings Jr
 
Merrick: Gene is breaking parts..... the 'fusible link' is just moving from piece to piece as he strengthens the drivetrain.



I will say this - Gene knows WAY too much about pulling..... some people claim that they dream in color..... Gene dreams about yanking weight sleds. :-laf Gotta love him for that! :cool:



Matt
 
auto vs. manual?

I really like to DRIVE a gearbox, BUT the more pulls I attend--and now that I've seen a few hot Cummins pull--I'm thinking that ARTTAmatic might be a better pulling option.



I'm planning a sub-600 hp (don't want to break too much) puller. Would you experience pullers lean toward a properly built auto over a good pulling clutch? Or should I stick with the what I'd rather drive when I'm off the track?



This is not a solicitation for x auto vs. z auto arguments. :rolleyes:
 
I would use a stick, full rpm and wheel speed comming off the line rather than waiting for the transmission to shift will win every time. The top trucks in the country are sticks so they must know something
 
Re: auto vs. manual?

Originally posted by WadePatton

I'm planning a sub-600 hp (don't want to break too much)

uller.

"DO YOU WANT A LIST OF WHAT WILL BREAK BELOW 600HP?":d





Would you experience pullers lean toward a properly built auto





There is no such animal that has been built... ... ... ... . YET!



I think an auto built to pull correctly, would be a bear on the street.
 
We don't have the top-dogs around here. At the last two pulls I attended, the autos won. First and third at the last pull and 1,2,3 at the other one. These trucks probably range from 450-550 HP. One has a transmission built for pulling, anther has a transmission with converter/valve body/and controller for drag-racing. They probably won't hang with the Big Big dogs, but they win around here.



I may stick with the gearbox, since that is what I prefer.



NEXT QUESTION:



Wheelbase. Any advantage to short or long? Or is that subject to track conditions.
 
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