Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Ultra cheapy way to fix the dowel pin

[Texas Diesel]

I staked the aluminum around the dowel pin.



Wish I could take credit but a diesel mechanic suggested it, he has done it for years on the B series engine.



No holes to drill and no tab to come loose.

 

[JO'Leary]

Sweeet, That's how i was told to kill mine. I need to find time to get it done before

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Joe

 

[MLee]

Me too

This is part of the way I do the fix, stake it and TAB it. why not cover it while your there. Peace of mind is worth a million. Just so simple to add that TAB. while there.

just my penny's worth.

Marv.

 

[Joe G.]

A tab is not exactly expensive either. I made mine from some scrap steel I had so the cost was zip.

 

[fishjack1]

Looks like you "peened" it - that's the same thing I did about 3 years ago. I have been told by several people that peening it "might not hold"??



Well I wish I would have tabbed mine while I had access. I am thinking about doing the "jig" for extra insurance.

 

[mainer]

Isn't the hardest/expensive part of fixing the DP just getting to it and then getting stuff put back together? That's the intimidating part for me.

 

[Joe G.]

Guy,



The job is not too bad. E-mail me for instructions. -- email address removed --

 

[Texas Diesel]

I'm not wanting a dowel pin war, was just posting another option.



The mechanic that told me that fix method is a professional diesel/cummins mechanic. He has doen it umpteeen times with no probs. He has however seen one case where a tab came off and got chewed up in the gears. Murphys law.

 

[Lsfarm]

Peening

I have one of the new and improved cases with the built in lip on the dowel pin hole. This lip is only about . 008" or so. Th amount of aluminum in the way of the pin when it is peened as in the photo above is greater than the amount in the new gear housing. So I don't believe that there is any way the pin can come out when peened.



Remember there is nothing but vibration and heating and cooling cycles that allow the pin to meander out of it's hole. There nothing mechanical or hydralic pushing the pin out. Just nothing to keep it in but the original interferance fit in the block.



I don't like the idea of introducing anything extra into the gearhousing. It is just an invitation for something else to get into the gears. Peening the pin and loctiting and retorquing the other housing bolts is the way to go IMHO.



Greg L

 

[DJb]

I'm finally about to tackle this job and no, I haven't been driving my truck very much. Joe, if you remember, you emailed me the instructions a looong time ago. I still have em and I'm planning to get started on it in about a week. I'll probably will peen it but will make that decision once I'm in there. Oh yeah, I'm a fire believer in loc-tite!

 

[moparguy]

I peened my KDP a couple of years ago and as added insurance, used green penetrating Locktite. I had a tab in hand that I was very proud of, but after careful reflection, decided I didn't want anything else introduced that could cause problems.



RJR

 

[JohnE]

I see very little difference in peening the hole versus tabbing. I would not rely on Loctite alone to do the job. Using a retainer on both sides of two moving surfaces will only break it loose.



The blocking or "jig" method is probably the strongest method and luckily the easiest.



The last jig job I supervised had a dowel pin that was partially in the hole. We got the cover tapped but couldn't get the bolt to pass the pin. We ended up grinding off the threads for a little extra room and seated the bolt. No reduction in blocking power. VERY happy owner the pin was stopped from potential damage.