Ultra Heavy Duty Tie Rod

[ZedMikey]

I think I'm going to have a machinist buddy of mine cut, drill, and tap some 1. 5" solid chrome-moly rod for the big 1"-18 tie rod ends. If anyone else is interested, I could get him to cut more than one to help offset the cost of the taps (he definitely doesn't have a left-hand tap in that size). These will be a drop-in replacement for the stock tie rod on our first-gens... time for me to get rid of that sloppy TRE that's causing some serious wander in my steering!

 

[R C Cola]

HD Tie Rod Ends

When you know approx. cost would like to know and see if I can afford it.

 

[ZedMikey]

Working on a quote right now... getting numbers for with and without flats milled on the rod to make tightening easier.

 

[TWorline]

Please get me a quote on one with the flats. Wheren do you find the 1" - 18 tie rod ends?

 

[ZedMikey]

I've got a local shop owner I know trying to track down Moog parts for the ends. If he can't find them, PartsMike.com has them from some other manufacturer.

ES2064R Tie Rod End - GM Dana 60 - 1" x 18TPI

ES2064L

ES2064R and ES2064L... same taper as our stock TREs, but 1"-18 threads instead of 7/8"-18. ES2011R and ES2011L will work, too, but they have an extra inch or so of unthreaded shank on them that would be length better included in the 1. 5" solid chrome-moly.

 

[PToombs]

Greg, (GHarmon) made one for his truck. There is a post about it on here someplace.

 

[ZedMikey]

Any chance you have a link to that post? I'm having a hard time finding it.

 

[ZedMikey]

Nevermind... just found it. He's GHarman.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-forum-1989-1993/213500-93-w-250-tie-rod.html

 

[PToombs]

Oops, sorry about that! I have a friend named Sandy Harmon. That's probably why it came out that way. Just not paying attention again!

 

[TIngersoll]

Tie Rod

So I have another source the part problem besides my lockout hub. By the way I found 17 of them if they turn out to be the correct ones.

My tie rod is moving up and down in the knuckle about 1/2 inch:-laf

Awe crap man!!!#@$%!

 

[therabbittree]

l May be interested too . . depends on the price. .

Thanks

deo

 

[GHarman]

Quick tierod

Hey all! Thanks for remembering my little project. Taps are very expensive. The threaded inserts are available from Spydertrax. 1 1/2" OD x 3/16" wall DOM tube is available through several sources on the 'net. Your machinist friend can make sacrificial plugs with the proper threads. All you need to do is weld the inserts into the tube. You could use Chrome moly tube or black iron pipe as well. It depends on your needs and wants!



Inserts; Hex



Jam nuts; Jam Nuts



DOM tube source; Steel Round DOM Tubing | Buy Small Quantities Online | Allmetalsinc.com



PS; I chose the tube that allowed a slip fit for the inserts. The fit was tight. This also provided a substantial wall thickness at the threads where the weld is made. If you use a thicker wall tube with the weld in inserts where you need to machine a counter bore for the threaded inserts, make sure the insert does not bottom out on a counterbored shoulder inside the tube. The weld will crack if you do! (refer; basic socket welding procedures). Hope this is helpful. GregH

 

[ZedMikey]

My friend owns a machine shop... the taps would be an investment for him. Turns out, he's just going to single-point the threads, anyway.

I am aiming for large amounts of overkill on this tie rod... that's why I've chosen solid chrome-moly rod and the big 1" ends. I'm having trouble finding a source for the jam nuts, though... I'll probably have to have those made, too. Wee!

Still working on a quote, guys. Hopefully he'll get back to me soon on that.

 

[JLEONARD]

McMaster-carr should have the jam nuts

 

[GHarman]

My friend owns a machine shop... the taps would be an investment for him. Turns out, he's just going to single-point the threads, anyway.



I am aiming for large amounts of overkill on this tie rod... that's why I've chosen solid chrome-moly rod and the big 1" ends. I'm having trouble finding a source for the jam nuts, though... I'll probably have to have those made, too. Wee!



Still working on a quote, guys. Hopefully he'll get back to me soon on that.

Consider double nutting each side. I used a bellville washer and a nut on each side. Found out that the adjustment is not solid when tightened down. GregH

 

[ZedMikey]

Aye, Greg. I saw that in your post. I will definitely keep an eye on that. Did you remove the washer and go with just two jam nuts?

McMaster doesn't have any nuts that are 1"-18. It's an uncommon thread pitch. I will just have my friend cut some out of the chrome-moly rod... two flats like the tie rod.

 

[GHarman]

I havent had a chance to do the double nut application, this Fall. However, I did buy an extra L&R hand threaded nut for exactly that reason. Ill probably do the switchout after the snow is gone, in the late Spring. I just keep a close eye on it. GregH

 

[PToombs]

In stead of going with a left and right thread, why not go with a right hand on both ends? I know this will be more work to adjust, but the cost savings on the taps and ends should make up for it. Besides, it's not like you're adjusting it every week or anything.

 

[ZedMikey]

I thought about that one, Pete. As for cost on parts, the savings are pretty much nil. The left-hand nuts and rod ends are basically the same price as the right-handers. As for the taps, my buddy's going to single-point the threads instead of buying taps, so we don't have that cost involved at all, anymore!

 

[GHarman]

In stead of going with a left and right thread, why not go with a right hand on both ends? I know this will be more work to adjust, but the cost savings on the taps and ends should make up for it. Besides, it's not like you're adjusting it every week or anything.

Pete, With the L&R handed threads, the rod acts like a turnbuckle, providing toein/toeout adjustments. With the same thread pattern R&R handed threads, There would be no toein/toeout adjustment without removing one side from the control arm and turning it in or out in one full turn increments. Just turning the tierod would result in a change of position of the tierod in relationship to the tierod ends, only? Single point threading is really the way to go, here. No taps required. Just a skilled lathe man! GregH

PS using an extra length of the material to slice off for nuts is the way to beat the lack of over the counter parts. Make extra in case you need some down the road. Are you going to heat treat them? Rust and other issues like a slipped wrench may cause problems where you might want to replace a nut. Make sure you assemble the threaded parts with antiseize or moly grease. Have fun. I'm glad YOU get to lift it into place:-laf. Bench pressing comes to mind.