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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Universal joints

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) #4 fuel plate

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How many miles can the front axel (4X4) non-greaseable factory U-joints last? I've got 116,000 on my 02 and the joints are still tight but I'm getting nervous. In fact, none of the u-joints have needed replacement.
 
I've got a new Dynatrac front spindles kit with new u-joints. I rebuilt my front end with 178K miles 2 months ago and there were still no issues. I did it cause I wanted to stop worrying about one of them breaking on the road, and I'd been wanting the Dynatrac kit..... I say if all is tight, keep on trucking. Matter of fact, my drive shaft u-joints are still the originals - I have 189K miles today. I tow a 10K race car trailer @ twice a month.
 
Similar story on mine. Ball joints were worn out with about 170kmi on the clock. Since I was pulling it apart that far figured I might as well replace the u-joints. The hubs were still nice a smooth when I pulled it apart so I didn't replace those. Everything still running just fine with 242kmi on the clock. I tow fairly heavy now and then, but nothing regularly.
 
I had well over 300k on my 2WD before I needed u-joints. If they are still tight I wouldn't worry about them. Personally, I would rather have the non-greasable type.
 
182,000 miles on my '01, all original. Don't worry about them, they will let you know when they need replaced. They will almost never leave you afoot.



Nick
 
242k on the ones on my 98 12v and still not an issue yet with the front u-joints in the axle.



I have done both the ones in the rear driveshaft already and have completely redone the front driveshaft eliminating the cardashian joint and changed it to a moly driveshaft with the same 1480 joints as the rear driveshaft.
 
I have 225 K on my 99 2500 4x4 and am still amazed that it still has all the original joints as well as ball joints. Everything is still tight, so , no worries. Randy
 
While I much prefer greaseable ball joints from Moog over non-greaseable Spicer balljoints, I also much prefer sealed (non-greaseable) Spicer u-joints over anything else short of those $300 apiece super-u-joints being sold to hardcore, well-heeled 4-wheelers.



Even with regular greasing, I have never had a greaseable u-joint definitively outlive the excellent, top-of-the-line, sealed, Cold-forged u-joints that Spicer makes. Some argue that the grease passages weaken greaseable ones compared to sealed, too.



Apparently, u-joint life has more to do with sealing dirt out and grease in than with replacing the grease regularly. Top-quality materials and grease are definitely part of Spicer's recipe for their long-lived sealed offerings.



That all said, when I rebuilt my front steering and replaced the rear carrier bearing and fixed/replaced the straps and bolts that had stretched and no longer clamped tight since the transmission shop had re-used them when they fixed my 5th gear, I had the local spicer-dealer driveline shop rebuild and rebalance my driveshafts with new cold-forged sealed spicer u-joints.



Nothing in my experience with anything "factory-Dodge" would lead me to believe they spent the few extra dollars for the premium spicer cold-forgings and I assume our trucks came with the lowest-cost spicer u-joints. Even premium spicer u-joints are cheap enough to replace when doing a bumper-to-bumper pm/rebuild without waiting for one to wear out and possibly destroy a much more expensive component.



Besides, once those straps and bolts are re-used, they will eventually allow the u-joint cap to spin loosely and hammer the saddles and straps and ruin themselves, too. That rear dana 80 yoke is almost $200 alone... new strap and bolts kits are $4 to $6 apiece and would have prevented that.
 
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I was under the impression that all non greasable joints made by spicer were cold forged. I replaced my original joints last year with over 300k on them and they could have been left in service. I debated replacing them with greasable joints but figured 300k on the cold forged should be all I need to know to make that decision.

My front axle joints have been replaced twice at about 110-130 k each time. Last ones seem to be holding up better.
 
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