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unpainted driveshafts

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came home for christmas and saw my dads brand new 2006 3500. i noticed upon inspection that both the front and rear drive shafts that were installed are unpainted, raw steel. they are nicely rusting as we speak. am i missing something, or should painted driveshafts been installed?



i would like some advice about how to go about "dealing" with the dealer about this two week old truck. my dad is not so mechanically inclined, so he didnt notice.



they should replace that, right? i mean you cant sell raw steel on a highway vehicle can you? i also dont want them to pull them off and paint them, as i know they wont do it properly with POR-15.



ideas?



i sure love my 12v :-laf
 
1. good luck on getting them to replace them due to NONE of them are painted.

2. DC is not the only MFG that sends them out unpainted.

3. Dealer is going to tell you in not so many words to go buy some paint and do it yourself



Been there done that. I work for a GM dealer (and have worked for DC) and have seen it all. It is not the dealers fault, all they do is sell them and service them. DC is to blame but your best bet is to get a scotch brite pad and prep it and put a light coat or clear on it or paint it to match the truck. Just don't over do it to get things out of balance. If you do then you have another can of worms on your hands with the dealer telling you it won't be under warranty because you painted it and caused the out of balance condition. just my . 02.
 
I painted mine when I rebuilt my transmission, they were out anyway and it made it easy. I sanded them down and used a red oxide primer and then painted them gloss black. If I had to do them in place it would be more difficult but not impossible, you just have to mask things off to prevent overspray from getting all over the place. I think it is strictly an appearence issue, I don't remember ever hearing anyone lose a propeller shaft to corrosion, but it does make the truck look a lot nicer.
 
i wonder how some large adheasive lined heat shrink tube would work on the driveshaft? buff off the rust then put the heat shrink on... ?
 
CBrahs said:
Just don't over do it to get things out of balance.



Come on... painting the driveshaft is so easy, even a caveman could do it :D



as to the subject- that's the way they come - All of them. They aren't going to replace them, and they probably wouldn't paint them for you. If you want it done right, pop them off yourself and paint them with POR-15.
 
thanks a bunch fellas. im really surprised. its just sloppy as far as i can tell. has it always been that way? i bought my 98 used, but they have paint on them. ive never seen a land rover or gelandewagen or land cruiser with no paint on a driveshaft. wow.



ill just let it be. im sorry i pointed it out to my dad.
 
nickleinonen said:
i wonder how some large adheasive lined heat shrink tube would work on the driveshaft? buff off the rust then put the heat shrink on... ?



That does sound good, and probably would be as long as it holds, but my neighbor's most recent project was changing out a driveshaft on a 1/2 ton of a different make than what we favor. Aluminum shaft wrapped in a plastic/glass or some composite sleeve. It fit quite tight, but a couple of places where it got dinged with road debris let in enough "stuff" to eat right through the shaft, and make problems. Kinda like the rust one might find when removing the bedliner.
 
I've never seen a painted driveshaft from any factory. Maybe something real high dollar. I'm no expert but seen many a driveshaft since I was 15. (52 now)
 
DPKetchum said:
I've never seen a painted driveshaft from any factory. Maybe something real high dollar. I'm no expert but seen many a driveshaft since I was 15. (52 now)

My 2000 Nissan came painted. It said DANA on diff and driveshaft.



C'mon guys, I've painted 2 driveshafts so far, and not one balance problem. Just paint half first, then have someone let go of parking brake and slightly push it (downhill preferable) until you've rotated half way, then do the other half. I can rotate driveshaft by hand, and slide a block under a tire as soon as I reach the correct rotation, and then set the parking brake, but if you have a steep driveway you need someone to help you.



As long as you put roughly the same amount of paint on both sides, it will NOT be out of balance. The warning label pertains to undercoating sprayed onto one side only.



While you're there, paint the ends of diff housing, front and rear, the u-joints, ball joints, and any other unpainted stuff, calipers, park brake cables or whatever. Gloss or flat black will do. 2 cans will usually be plenty.



If you hate paint, chain oil sprayed once a year will keep the rust at bay.

Spray it (or grease) unto the u-joints to keep water from getting in there.
 
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Interesting on the Nissan. I handled Datsun/Nissan 15 years and never saw one painted or any driiveline parts made by anyone but Nissan. My last dealings with them were in 1990.
 
DJennings said:
Come on... painting the driveshaft is so easy, even a caveman could do it :D


I'm picturing a truck on 4 jackstands, idling in 4 lo, and a caveman with roller and pan underneath.
 
I have owned several 240 and 280z cars in years past and never saw a painted shaft on any. Replaced u/joints in a few of them. Was under I guess a few thousand over the years never remember seeing any not rusty. Maybe someone painted yours. Really dosen't matter. Nothing ever happens negitive with unpainted ones. They get a film of rust and stay that way for years. Owned a number of G. M and a Dodge hot rods years back. Same deal.
 
caveman

bighammer said:
I'm picturing a truck on 4 jackstands, idling in 4 lo, and a caveman with roller and pan underneath.



Now, that's funny, no matter who you are! :-laf . Problem is, I just might try it!
 
Possible on the 240Z, since it was a second hand race car.

The non-replaceble u-joints on my 1990 300ZX went out a year ago. the facotry drive shaft was painted and so was the dealer purchased replacement.
 
I'm picturing a truck on 4 jackstands, idling in 4 lo, and a caveman with roller and pan underneath.



Kindof off topic, but this works great for turning rotors too. Place truck on jack stands, remove wheels, put truck in 4low 1st gear, use grinder with a sanding disc on it. With constant wheel speed and constant grinder speed, things actually come out pretty good. Oh, keep loose clothing out of the way of rotating parts! Don't ask how I know... :-laf
 
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