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Upgraded Turbos - Better Solution for an Oil Drain Tube?

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Hey guys - I can't speak for all the big turbos out there, but any of you that have had to modify the oil drain tube to clear the wastegate arm after installing an HTB2 know what I'm talking about.



Question is - is there any body out there that makes an oil drain tube that's made to work around this problem? I've not only had to cut mine in half and install a section of heater hose, but I've beat the thing to death with a ball-peen hammer trying to get it to not rub against the wastegate arm. It doesn't touch now, but I've probably cut the diameter of the drain tube in half because I had to hammer on it so much. This can't be good. :confused:



Any ideas or solutions?
 
Do you have a Cat dealer nearby? Ask for a drain tube for a 3126 or a c7; they run Schwitzer turbos with the same outside dimensions. You'll have to cut off about an inch from the bottom of it. Cat uses an o-ring instead of a hose. Bolt it to the bottom of the turbo and run some rubber hose between. This is just a theory, I haven't tried it myself.
 
I have to figure out a solution also Hans. There is nothing left of my drain tube since I went from a small Schwitzer, to a HX55, to my Killer B2.



Its just the flange with a small piece of curve, then silicone hose from the local big rig repair shop, then part of the tube that curved down into that orange hose. I crawled all under my truck trying to figure out my vacuum & heater core probs the past couple of days and the passenger side of my motor is a mess with oil and such. :eek:



Whatever you figure out (above sounds good!) let me know so I can do it too! ;) Oo. :-laf
 
Hmmm... the idea for the drain tube off a 3126 sounds promising. We've got CAT dealers all over East Brooks Road down here in Memphis. I'll look into that Thursday or Friday if no one else chimes in.



Thanks!
 
There are two different ones for the 12v/24v trucks. Most turbos we have played with clear one or the other. We provide the odd one so our customers have both to choose from.
 
You can clock the cartrige, by losing the bolts on th eexhaust and the compressor and rotate everything until there is enough room. I would then tighten it all up and pull it off to tighten again.
 
Cummins has the flexible drain tube like the one pic'd above, but it's longer and the end will fit into the block-has an o-ring on it--you will have to remove the old tube first--I don't remember the # of it though--but it does work nice---chris
 
I'd be careful with a tube like that. Cat tried using the exact same stuff and all it did was crack and leak oil. Granted, Cats have alot harsher engine vibration but the tubes were cracking right away.
 
mhuggler said:
I'd be careful with a tube like that. Cat tried using the exact same stuff and all it did was crack and leak oil. Granted, Cats have alot harsher engine vibration but the tubes were cracking right away.



I have yet to see this happen with this type of oil drain, and we remove and reinstall them all the time at work so they really get abused. They are much stouter than they look.
 
Ok, a flexible drain tube sounds like a good idea, but how do you guys suggest I go about getting one from Cummins?. Both Cummins Cumberland (Nashville) and Cummins Mid-South (Memphis) won't even talk to you unless you have an engine serial number or a specific part number.



Any ideas?
 
Cooker said:
Does anybody have the Cummins part number for the above pipe?



That's what I want to know - $40 is crazy! Looks like Rip is pretty proud of that stuff. I may look into the CAT 3126 drain tube if no one can come up with the number. I think I can do better than 40 bucks.
 
$40 might not be a bad price. I know Cummins wants around $40 for the soild oil drain tubes. I was just thinking if I can get one at Cummins for around $40 I could save on shipping and just grab one whenever I wanted.
 
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