Upgrading the 47RE!

[DWestfall]

Rather than hijack Chris Kringles' thread I will create my own.

I too am concerned about about possible transmission failure due to my need for more HP, but am also concerned with the prices I see floating around here. $3-4000. Ouch for the working man. Here is what I posted on ChrisKringles' thread: " CHRIS I AM WITH YOU! I wish I would get a straight answer about my transmission. I cant see paying $3-4000 for a transmission when I will never need that much transmission. I want reliability. I also want to have fun with my truck, but that much money? I just cant see that for what I use it for. I pull only 4000lbs, mostly highway. I have a chip. I like to burn tires and do a little street drag racing. Maybe in the future, just a little more horespower than the XZilliraider. I dont think $3-4000 is worth what I am doing or plan on doing. Your thoughts or suggestions, please!"

I have talked to 2 fairly reputiable local transmission shops. One (who is a ford guy "Dodge trannies suck") said just a shift kit. He also said the torque convertor dodge is using is fine. I know that is not the full truth by just the way it shifts. The other guy suggested a billet torque convertor he puts in motor homes and a shift kit (trans-go). All for $1600-$1700 installed. He also said the stock convertor is fine now, but only when I mentioned a Billet convertor he brought the "motor home convertor" up. I asked him, is this for a diesel? He said "it will work". So where do I begin? I use this truck for work, 3-4 days a week. I put about 40- 50 K a year towing my trailer. Do I get rid of my Quad box and drive like a granny or do I have to plunk down several thousand for a full blown sled pulling, drag racing transmission? There has got to be a middle ground somewhere? Am I wrong in my assesment? Please guide me there!

Sincerely, Confused

 

[cerberusiam]

The "pay to play" syndrome really kicks in when it comes to transmissions doesn't it? FWIW, I am running into the same problems with a 92, 96, and a 99. The 92 ate the 518 and I was unwilling to spend the the same $3k to rebuild it so I replace dit with a 47RH and will pgrade the VB and TC. The 99 has just taken the forward clutches out and now will have to be rebuilt/replaced. The 96 is still rolling after being beat, abused, neglected, and lots of heavy towing. The 518 lasted 270k, the 99 47RE has less than 140k, and the 96 47RE has about 180k. Go figure. I think there is some discrepency in the internal parts with respect to manufacturing tolerances that will cause identical transmissions to give varying service lifes. Its hit or miss if you got a good one and that doesn't seem to have changed very much.



The stock converter is loose for a reason. To keep failures to a minimum and lengthen the life of the trans without additional expense. The same can be said for the TC lockup. The PCM's main goal is to protect the trans from the engine and for the most part it is very effective. Both of the previous leave a lot to be desired when towing, racing, and daily driving. Hence all the upgrades that can be done to improve a stock setup that was designed for maximum life with minimal expense. See where I am going here? If you change the VB, TC, etc. you raise the possibility of failure considerably higher. There is a reason for the costs and a reason the big builders push their complete units. Experience has shown them that bandaid approachs don't work and the customers are unhappy with the results so they charge what they do because they can.



I am not advocating paying the prices nor suggesting it is needed in every instance. Just pointing out there could be issues that lead to costs. I have seen guys go thru 3 stock transmissions at $2200 a pop rather than spend the extra to get a good one. A lot will depend on how good your trans is, how you drive, and what you do for upgrades. You can spend the $1600 for a TC & VB and get just what you want and it will last indefinitely, or, you could end up with a smoked trans in short order and still have to spend an extra $2k to have it rebuilt.



There are several threads here discussing the advantages of TC's and the different flavors. Do a search and read thru them. IMO, if you want a good multi-purpose trans that will probably live without a lot of internal mods go with a multi-disk converter and the VB. Keep the line pressures a little higher than stock but not as high as needed for the single disk. Get a converter that has a tighter fluid coupling than stock but not around the 90% figures. This will help save your input shafts and clutches under high torque and then use the lockup when the RPM's are up and you need the HP on the ground.



If you want the best of both worlds you will have to shell out the big $$$. The cummins just generates to much power to be absorbed by less than top of the line parts. As has been suggested call the builders and tell them what you want to do and get their opinions. I have talked to all of the big 4 and if emphasize that you want better funtionality without the big $$ they will have suggestions and tips to get you there.



My . 02 and good luck.

 

[Lonestar]

I'm running an 03' SO with a TST, EZ, and 100hp injectors. I installed a BD TC, VB, and their PressureLoc kit. I have run about 50k miles like this and haven't had any problems till recently. I just added the EZ to my combo and have found the limits of this transmission. I use the truck mostly for play which includes pulling my 14k lb. boat every weekend in the summer. I normally pull the boat about 8k miles a year. For modest power upgrades this is a great combo. I am now in the market for a full blown transmission by either DTT, BD, or ATS complete with billet shafts.



KEEP ON TRUCKIN'

Lonestar