US-Gear E-brake...HELP!

[Sticks]

I recently acquired a US-Gear Super Duty E-brake…second hand. This appears to be an earlier model, and has different wiring than what is shown on their website.



We are having our local TDR wrench day this Sunday, and I have received offers to help me get it installed. We can still do the grunt work of getting it in the exhaust system, but the wiring is causing a little brain damage.



Here is what I have as far as wiring



Control Box with switch and three LED’s all wires are at least 18 gauge

Yellow - to a defeat switch on the go pedal

Brown - to a defeat switch on the go pedal

Blue – to the pressure sensor on the waste gate on the brake housing

Orange - to the pressure sensor on the waste gate on the brake housing

Red – has an in-line fuse - ?

Red/Black - ?

Black – ground I presume - ?

White - ?

Green - ?

Remote pushbutton switch

Wires are missing. There appear to be three connections that were cut off on the exposed circuit board, may only be two. I will be contacting US-Gear for a new one.

Brake Housing

Main solenoid – all wires are 10 gauge.

Black – Ground

White – Close butterfly - ?

Gray – Hold butterfly - ?

(white and gray may be reversed, they are labeled on the solenoid, I am just too lazy to get up from the computer to double check )

Pressure switch (I am presuming, there is a air line running from the turbo side of the butterfly to this switch) all wires are at least 16 gauge

Blue – to the control box

Orange – to the control box

What I need to know is where to all the wires with the “?” get connected. I can figure both reds get power, one direct to battery, the other to a switched 12 volt supply. I am wondering if the 10 gauge wires on the main solenoid are supposed to go to a relay. If so, this will throw my both reds to 12 volt supply out the window.



Please, anyone with a, early model US-Gear SD E-brake, please help. I don’t have enough time during normal business hours to call them and try to figure this one out.



Sticks

 

[Sticks]

43 views, 26 hours, and no one uses a US-Gear e-brake? What did I do, opt for the least favorite one on the market?



Anyone?

 

[DEZLPWR]

Yes...

Sorry to say, but you did... .

Most people go with Pacbrake or a BD exhaust brake.

 

[Roger rodbolt]

Sticks,

I hesitated to say anything because I have no personal experience with the US Gear E-Brake. It's all hearsay but everything that I've heard about the early models is that they give a ton of trouble. One owner finally replaced his but did say that the factory had an upgrade/rebuild available that was reasonably priced. He was trying to sell the US Gear to me though... ... ..... I stress that this is only what I've heard, not seen. HTH's, Larry

 

[Loren]

Sticks,



I have one and I like it. I moved it from my 1995 truck to the new 2000 one.



I dug out my documentation, but it doesn’t seem to match your colors. I can explain a bit about how it works. Maybe with a meter, you can figure out which wire does what.



Power is fed from the battery via a circuit breaker to two relays. This red wire is at least 12 gauge. When I wired the 2000 truck, I used 10 gauge wire. This circuit breaker will automatically reset if it trips.



These relays work like the fuel solenoid. There is a pull-coil, and a hold-coil. When the brake is engaged, both relays provide power to the solenoid at the brake. After a brief period, about two seconds, the pull relay shuts off and the pull-coil is de-energized. The hold-coil remains powered via the hold relay until the driver disengages the brake.



If the pull-coil relay fails and the pull-coil remains engaged too long, the current will trip the circuit breaker.



My advice is to use 10 gauge wire for the pull coil circuit, including the ground. This is the red wire to the relay, and the gray wire from the relay to the PC (pull coil) terminal on the solenoid.



I used 12 gauge wire for everything else, but 14 gauge would probably be fine too.



My diagram is not exactly as you have described your system, but I hope some of this will help. Maybe you can eliminate some combinations and figure the others out.



The solenoid at the brake has three terminals:

1. HC: hold-coil: white wire from the hold relay

2. PC: pull-coil: gray wire from the pull relay

3. CG: chassis ground: black wire to ground: Use 10 gauge here too.



I think the relays are physically identical, but if one has a higher current rating, that one is the pull-coil relay.



Relay 1 is the hold-coil relay.

Terminal 87: Red wire from circuit breaker

Terminal 30: White wire to the solenoid HC terminal

Terminal 85: Red wire from under-dash control box

Terminal 86: White wire from under-dash control box



Relay 2 is the pull-coil relay.

Terminal 87: Red wire from the circuit breaker

Terminal 30: Gray wire to the solenoid PC terminal

Terminal 85: Red wire from under-dash control box (This is the same red wire that connects to terminal 85 on the other relay. They are jumpered to each other. )

Terminal 86: Green wire from under-dash control box



Sorry, I can’t help you with the red/black. It isn’t shown on any of my diagrams. I did just find a wire with an in-line 1 amp fuse on the diagram. As you surmised, it comes from a switched power source to power the under-dash controller.



The remote push-button switch on my unit (new in 1995) was a radio transmitter. It didn’t have any wires connecting it to the controller.



I’m sure this will help you at least somewhat. The guys at U. S. Gear are very helpful. If you can contact them, you’ll surely get exactly the right answers.



One last thing. I won’t be on the computer for several days. Vacation. I’ll check the web site when I get home.



Good luck.



Loren