Rob,
My U. S. Gear brake was originally installed on my ‘95 by the dealer, Precision Power in Kokomo, IN. (Great guys, by the way. ) A few months ago I removed it from that truck and installed it on my 2000, six-speed 2500.
Install the wiring harness first. Do not lengthen any wires. U. S. Gear cautions against this. Apparently the wires are marginal at the factory length and a longer run will not carry sufficient voltage for the job. When I installed my unit, I replaced the #12 (I think) main power and ground wires leading to the brake with #10 wires. I have not had any problems with the new wires. I also ran all my wires inside split loom (available from auto parts retailers) to protect them. I coated all connections with silicone grease to prevent corrosion.
Be sure to allow enough slack for chassis movement and vibration. Precision Power had my ground wire taut on the original installation and it eventually broke.
The new d-feat switch (the switch that opens the brake when you step on the throttle pedal) is a microswitch that mounts to the chassis metal beside the pedal by means of an adhesive pad. The metal tab on the switch is bent to an appropriate angle to adjust for on-off operation at the proper throttle setting. I have found that the setting is continually getting out of adjustment. Every month or so I'll need to crawl into the space at the driver's feet and re-adjust that tab. Other than that, it works very well.
I mounted the main control box to the bottom of the knee bolster close to the shift lever. I then taped the transmitter to the shift lever. I had it on the steering wheel in my ‘95 and had problems. First, it was intermittent. I suspect that in some wheel positions the transmitter would not reach the receiver reliably. Second, it wasn't too handy. I am very happy with the shift lever position on the new truck. Before you peel the tape off the back of the transmitter and stick it on permanently, try taping it in that position for a while and be sure you will like it. You can always complete the permanent installation later.
The brake itself went in fairly easily, although it's heavy and difficult for one person to hold in position while you simultaneously tighten the bolts. I found that the fitting at the forward end of the brake leaked when the brake was closed. I could hear it hissing. You said that you will have this welded. Obviously that will cure that problem. What I did was to use some muffler cement to seal the fitting. This stuff is called "exhaust system joint and crack sealer" on the tube. I bought mine at NAPA. It's made by Qualco and has stock number 160 on the tube. It is similar to very fine mortar. It sets very hard when it dries. To remove, strike the fitting with a hammer and the sealer will crack. It comes off easily after it's cracked.
I am a fanatic about a clean, long-lasting installation. It took me a couple of days to get this all done. I probably re-routed the wires three different ways before I found the way I liked them. If you aren't so picky, your job should not take as long. My theory is that I intend to keep this truck a long time and I don't want to have to go looking for some intermittent fault in the exhaust brake system ten years from now.
It took a lot of time and effort to get this thing installed, as well as a number of calls to Ron Smith at Precision Power for assistance, but I now have a unit that works well and should give good service for a long time.
If you have any more questions, send an e-mail. bengtson@hillcrestco.com
If you send me your phone number, I'll be happy to help via phone. I hope these pointers aren't too late to do you any good. I just got to your post this morning (Sunday). I thought there was a way to get your e-mail address through this web site, but I haven't found it yet. If I do, I'll send you my phone number. I don't want to post it.
Nice web page, by the way.
Loren
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2000 Quad Cab, 4x4, short bed, six-speed: U. S. Gear exhaust brake, MileMarker Select Drive viscous coupling, Velvet-Ride spring shackles, Painless Wiring circuit box, Optima yellow-top batteries, Super-Glide 5th wheel hitch, Reese folding ball gooseneck hitch, Drawtite front hitch receiver, Tekonsha Sentinel brake controller, Westin nerf bars, Clarion sound system
1995 Standard Cab, 4x4, long bed, automatic: Firestone Ride-Rite air springs, torque converter lock-up switch, 4" cat-back exhaust, Reese 20K 5th wheel hitch, Reese gooseneck hitch, Hayes Micro Control trailer brake controller, 100 gallon bed-mounted fuel tank with 12 volt electric pump & fill nozzle, Swiss Cap fiberglass cap
[This message has been edited by Loren (edited 03-04-2001). ]
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