My first rule is to use what the Factory TSM calls for, unless years of experience from a knowledgeable mechanic call for something different.
For Jeep engines, my preference is spray copper. Actually, it's my preference for any cast iron head to cast iron block application.
Aluminum heads to cast iron blocks are real hair-pullers because of the differential expansion rates. Adding an aluminum intake into the mix complicates it. I try to ask around to high-performance users.
If Fel-Pro makes a Printo-Seal head gasket for an aluminum-iron application, I use it following their instructions exactly.
If no Printo-Seal, I try the spray copper on both sides because it generally allows differential movement.
The weirdest case I ever ran into was a Mazda GLC cast iron block and aluminum head. I had major, big-time sealing problems with a new head. The grizzled master mechanic recommended GM Part B silicone gasket THINLY on the top and spray aluminum or copper on bottom. Worked great.
Another product that seems to work when nothing else will is Gasgacinch, available at speed shops.
A word of caution on cleaning surfaces. Don't stop with lacquer thinner. Finish with denatured alcohol. Silicone sealers and some other exotics won't stick to any kind of oil, even very lightweight petroleum distillates like residual lacquer thinner. A finish cleaning with denatured alcohol removes the thin layer of lacquer thinner (which is just 00000 weight oil) and makes the silicone stick super well.