Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Vacume Pump Leak

[jackrea]

Well I'm about to change out the vacume pump for the second time, the part at the Dodge Boys is over 1100 bucks but NAPA has one for 500. There was a member that sent me the seals to rebuild the pump but in my fileing system I can't find them. Any information and tips to replacing the seals would be gladly welcomed. Jack

 

[BPonci]

national #480210

 

[gonehuntingagain]

Member CPFF (jvssyn@rcn.com) has the seals for the vacuum pump, and he sends directions on how to do it.

I get to try replacing the seals this weekend out at the BOMB party here in SW Idaho. On the advice of another TDR member, I will go to Cummins and get the gasket that goes between the block and the front of the vacuum pump. I hope it works (and lasts)!

I think I'll replace the cam sensor while I can get at it too, the truck is running rough (like it is a gas v8 with a huge cam).

 

[EHenley]

great information, thanks

 

[gonehuntingagain]

The vacuum pump is done!! It took about 3 hours to do, and really isn't as hard as it sounds. Of course, I had help at the BOMB party (thanks Stan!). The biggest PITA was getting the lines off the back of the pump - they are stuck to the pump with sooper-dooper glue. Had to split the ends of the lines to get them off, thankfully there was enough slack in the lines to compensate for the 1/2" that we had to cut off.



As for the cam sensor, I replaced it since I was there. It did not help the "loping" at idle. In fact the truck is at the dealer getting an injection pump installed! Whew, still under 100K warranty!

 

[Spunkys Ram]

Well now it's my turn. I'm working on a 2000 HO and the seal at the back of the vacuum pump is leaking oil. It's leaking out between the rear of the adapter and the PS pump. I have the componets out of the truck and I have the new seals but I'm wondering on how to get the seal. Looks like I have to split the vacuum pump but when I tried to do that it looks like you have to pull the gear off the front.

This is my first time working with this pump and the service manual says the pump isn't servicable but I know with some work anything is servicable.

Who out there can help me? Any instructions that could be e-mailed would be great. Thanks

 

[thejeepdude]

I bought a 10-ton hydrolic press from Harbor Feight (cheap chinese tools) for $99 and it worked great to disassemble my vacuum pump and replace the seals, not to mention pressing off all sorts of bearings and misc stuff. Used it a lot on my gear swap too.

 

[gonehuntingagain]

Spunky - PM sent with instructions.

 

[Spunkys Ram]

Huntin',

Thanks for the great info. Printed it out and did it just how you said and worked out perfect. Now I just have to wait for Dodge to get me the gasket for the front cover and on it goes.

 

[willyslover]

gonehuntingagain... I'll take a copy of the instructions also please



-- email address removed --

 

[Turbo Tim 1]

I've just developed the leak also, can someone send me the directions also.

 

[gonehuntingagain]

I guess I'll just have to post the instructions here - long post!



This is for a 2000. (Copied from a previous post and annotated with what I did/didn’t to do in addition to these instructions. )



First, order the “O” ring and seal kit from John (TDR member CPFF) - -- email address removed --. Once the pump is out follow his instructions on replacing the seal and “O” rings. I also ordered a new gasket from Cummins to replace the old one where the pump connects to the back of the timing cover.



You will need a 15mm socket and wrench, and a 18mm wrench, and a few other common sizes.



1) First turn the wheels all the way to the right so that the pitman arm is not in your way.

2) From underneath disconnect the braided oil supply line

3) Remove the bracket that holds up the back part of the pump.

4) There are 2 bolts that hold the pump assembly to the back of the timing cover. Remove the bottom bolt.

5) Remove the air intake pipe were it connects to the inner cooler.

6) At this point I would put down some card board and a drip pan to catch the power steering fluid.

7) Disconnect the batteries, and remove the driver's side battery. Now disconnect the air pipe from the air horn and completely remove the air pipe. (I had to remove the air horn as well, made it much easier to get the pipe off. )

8) Disconnect the fuel line where it connects to the injection pump. (I did not have to do this - only removed my hose going into a tapped banjo for a fuel pressure gauge)

9) Now you have a clear open area to the pump.

10) Disconnect the power steering lines from the back of the power steering pump. This was the most difficult part for me. (I had to split the lines - they were 'glued' on. Split the hoses just enough to break it free. I had enough slack (barely) - check this before you cut)

11) Disconnect the vacuum line.

12) Remove the top bolt that holds the pump to the back of the timing cover.

13) Grab the back of the pump and move up and down until the pump starts to come loose. Now move the pump back toward to fire wall until the front gear is clear of the timing cover. Let the back of the pump drop with your right hand and pull the pump out with the gear facing you.

14) Follow the instructions in the “O” ring kit and replace the seal and “O” rings. The cylinder that the new seal goes into tapers so make sure you use the correct size socket for driving in the new seal - make sure you install the seal facing the right direction. Lube the seal with a little oil on the outside before you press it in, and lube the lip when you install the PS pump. Lube the o-rings too when you install them. Inspect the PS pump shaft for burs that might mess up the new seal when you put the PS pump shaft back in.

15) For replacing the pump just reverse the removal order. 1 bit of advice in doing this, place some grease on the top bolt and place it in the mounting plate so it doesn’t fall out while you’re maneuvering the pump back in place. (dab a spot of silicone between the gasket and the pump - only enough to hold it in place while you line up the pump and bolt holes)

16) Refill the power steering reservoir. Start the engine. If you can’t turn the wheels rev the engine up to about 2000 RPM. Once you are able to turn the wheels just turn them 1 time. Turn off the engine and check the power steering fluid (good time to change to Valvoline Synpower Synthetic blend). Fill to the cold level (which is about 1/2 quart or so).

17) If you removed the fuel line, do the same procedure that you would do if you changed the fuel filter. Start the engine and turn the wheels all the way back and forth 5 - 10 times.

18) Re-check the power steering fluid.

19) Check for leaks



It sounds like a lot and is sort of intimidating, but is really easier than it sounds on paper. I think it took me about 3 hours (including lunch time). So far it shows no sign of leaking (knock on wood). For the $ saved, it was well worth the time to do.

If anyone is having a BOMB party near your area, it is a worth while project to do there -lots of help if needed! I also replaced the cam position sensor while I was in there - it is a real PITA to get to if you don't have the vacuum or injection pump out.



Good Luck



Alan