Vacuum over hydraulic brakes on trailer

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Anyone pull a trailer with a vacuum over hydraulic brake setup? I may be trading trailers, and if so, might want to consider. I've always had the electric brakes and they are ok with a good controller. However, you do have to adjust them when the weight of your load changes.

Questions:

How much will the vac/hyd setup cost to add to my truck?

Can you easily rob the vacuum needed off a 99 model diesel?

Is this an installation I should try myself?

Who makes the truck part of the set up and which vendor is best?

Do vac/hyd brakes have a separate control that allow you to work brakes independent of truck brakes, if needed?

Thanks.


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99 3500 QC 4X4 5sp 3. 54 K&N air filter, DiPricol gauges, 275 hp injectors, Westin nerfs, GN hitch, Tekonsha Brake controller, Mopar seat covers, Husky mats, silencer ring removed

 

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I pull a 40' gooseneck that I use in an oilfield hotshot business with V/H brakes, definitly the way to go. You dont have the Hard "hit" when applying the brakes as you do with electric. Feels normal when brakes applied with V/H system.
I've got a 97 model and the way i hooked mine up plus several other trucks have done this same set up with no problems. There is a vacuum port on the drivers side of the motor about in the middle with a small vacuum line hooked into it(controls dash vents). Pull the line off and the rubber nipple off(may have to pull hard). This is where you will hook your vacuum valve to for the trailer brakes. You have to buy a "T" to splice the new hose going to your vacuum valve, to hook up the line for dash controls. The new hose
is about 3/8 in size , not sure cant remember exactly. Auto part stores will have a T to do this with.
The vacuum valve costed me 210. 00 at Husky trailer parts. I mounted it on the fenderwell by the master cylinder. you will have the 1 vacuum line going to the vacuum port on the motor, 1 brake line hooked in to the master cylinder on the front bowl(vacuum valve should come with the brake line and "T" to do this). 2 vacuum lines going to your trailer connection port in the bed of truck. 1 small vacuum line to run inside thecab for a vacuum guage. You can also buy a "T" handle parking brake lever, it comes with the cable to run to your vacuum valve under the hood.

It is really a simple install,sounds harder than it is. Be sure to use hose clamps at each hose connection. Use DOT approved vacuum hose going to the trailer connection port.
Do not buy the cheap little square vacuum guage that usually is sold. Buy a Real guage, around 30. 00, you will be money ahead. On the trailer connection port for the trailer make sure you get one that has a check valve with it. If not each time you disconnect the lines or plugs you will need to let the pressure bleed down slowly, if you dont and let the pressure "pop off" you will blow the diaphram in the vacuum valve. One other thing if you do pull in the mountains quite abit where you are on the brakes alot put a vacuum canister inline on the hose going to your valve under the hood. This will give you a "reserve" so to speak. My guess is you could buy the parts needed to do the install for under 350. 00. Any questions feel free to e-mail . Ive got right at 190,000 miles pulling my trailer with this set-up with 0 problems.

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97 HD 1 ton,11'flatbed pulling 40' g/n,vac/hyd brakes
200,000 miles and counting

 

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I had the V/H on my old cattle trailer and loved them. My new one has electric and they suck. I was going to convert but with the axles I have they would have to put new one ons so I could run vacuum. I just don't have an extra $4000 for that. If you are looking at ordering a trailer get the vacuum.

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99,4x4,slt,3500,5spd,
black,hoswel bale bed,
blue box,sraightpipe,
K&N,silencer ring removed,5 star aluminum wheels,brushguard,
blackouts,eclipse stereo,
matrix blue headlight bulbs,blazer blue neon fog lights,

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