Valve adjustment ??????

[trbotrk]

I just read the shop manual for adjusting the valves. They talk about using a barring tool #7471B. Is this the old wrench on the crankshaft pulley nut trick or does the Cummins need a special tool. BTW what is the deal on the valve cover gasket, the Dodge dealer wants 62 bucks for it, is this right. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Boost]

I don't know about the tool but the valve cover gasket is reusable. You won't need to replace it.

 

[SOOT]

trbotrk,

The wrench on the crank nut is one to do it. you will need a big cheeter bar unless you are really strong, it takes alot to turn over these monsters by hand. OR buy the barring tool and the engine can be turned over by a baby. the tool is inserted on the drivers side at the back of the block to contact the starter ring gear on the flywheel. it is used with a standard 3/8 or 1/2 drive rachet i beleive. i do not know the price of the tool. hope this helps.

 

[trbotrk]

valve adjustment

boost--- Thanx for the response you saved me 62 bucks

MMclain--- after looking at the set up I'm going to try to make a tool. I don't think a wrench on the crankshaft is the way to go.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

~ ~ A couple notes to keep in mind, when tackling a valve adjustment ~ ~



--Using a barring tool and cranking the motor over with a ratchet: takes a BAJILLION repetitions to turn the engine even a few degrees!



--The plug you need to remove to use the barring tool is a major PITA to pop out (mine was anyway).



--To look at the timing mark, disconnect the blowby tube and use your strap oil filter wrench to unscrew the cover the tube comes out of, works great. Don't be like me and think the dang thing pops off, I about destroyed mine before I discovered. . . it simply unscrews!



--I suggest using a socket on the alternator pulley to turn your engine, if you can get it to go FORWARD ONLY without slipping on the belt (or else it goofs up the characteristics of the valve lash, and you risk losing your oil pump prime). Mine did not work this way, it always slipped.



On my 24V I found 3 valves off by a mere . 001" which was well within spec. Checked at 40,000 miles.



Happy valve adjusting!



Vaughn

 

[trbotrk]

Vaughn---- thanks for your reply. I was all set to pry that cover off without removing the breather hose. Today I made a barring tool and will chack the valves in a day or two. Thanks for your help.

 

[tjpatte]

This is just me but... I would stay away from putting a wrench on the end of the crank. The reason I say this is because for one you do not have a mechanical advantage ( as stated before by the big cheater bar) and the fact that a slight movement of the breaker/cheater bar with alot of force on it is going to make it difficult to properly align the timing marks, and second do you really want to put that much force on a single nut that's on the end of the crankshaft? Wouldn't want to have to replace a nut on the end of the crank due to a rounded nut.



I haven't done this yet myself so I'm not sure but, I seen a few people snap the bolt off of the end of the crank on a gasser spinning it through (Yes I know it was stated that there is a nut on the end of our cranks, but you see where I'm coming from).



Have a good one.



Tom

 

[Wiredawg]

Using socket and breaker bar OK...

Hey guys:



I checked my valves when I installed my 275s and used a socket w/breaker bar. Wasn't all that hard. Valves were all well within specs at 31K miles.



Wiredawg

 

[nps]

Take out the spark plugs.

Always found that taking out the spark plugs helps make it easier to turn them over. Also a good shot of WD40 on the muffler bearing helps (unless lost your muffler).

 

[Wiredawg]

Another note: Put the truck in neutral first and set brakes. This makes job way easier! Lol



Wiredawg

 

[mike r]

Why are you guys checking valve lash at 30-40,000 miles anyway? I have my factory manual and talked to my buddy who is a Cummins mech and the book says 150,000 and my buddy says the 24's stay in spec. alot longer than the 12's. I have another friend with a '94 and he checked his at 100k and only 3 out of adjustment, 1 tighter and 2 looser but only . 002-. 003 off. Just curious.

 

[tjpatte]

NPS, instead of WD-40, I prefer Relative bearing grease



Tom

 

[Wiredawg]

Just Curious!

Mike R:



I already had the valve cover off changing the injectors and thought I'd see how much in specs they were. All were right in the middle of the specs.



I wouldn't have checked if I hadn't had the valve cover off.



Wiredawg

 

[tjpatte]

Good idea WIREDAWG. Since your already in there. I'll do the same when I put my DDIII's in



Tom

 

[mike r]

I didn't think about that, Wiredawg. I'm gonna do my transmission soon and then probably DDII's so I'll stick myfoot in my mouth now, OK?

 

[trbotrk]

I finally made a barring tool and adjusted the valves. All the valves were set to the tight end of the specs. Found one exhaust valve set at . 014. I reset most of the valves to the factory specs.

 

[HVAC]

I suggest you find the proper size socket to fit the nut on the alternater pulley. Use a 1/2" drive ratchet and your left arm to turn the engine while you watch the mark on the pump drive gear.

 

[WOT]

Sounds simple, but if you need to turn the engine over a little & have a standard just put it in gear and give it a push

 

[trbotrk]

HVAC--- The barring tool I made is long enough to be turned from under the hood. I can turn it with my left hand while watching the timing mark. I was unable to bar the engine over with a wrench on the alternator pulley. The pulley just slipped.

 

[tjpatte]

Hey WOT,



So how many mirrors does it take to see the timing mark from the rear bumper



Tom