valve body bolt torque?

[Ncostello]

Anybody recall the torque values for the valve body bolts? Is there a special sequence or can I just carefully go back and forth, x pattern? Plan on partially dropping it to drain the transmission. Auto w/OD... A518 I believe.



Are there any gaskets I'll be messing up by lowering it for a fluid drain/siphon?

 

[Ncostello]

Finally found it in a search. 100 in-lbs attaching bolts. 72 in-lbs band adjustment bolts, then back off 2. 5 turns on front, 2 turns rear.



Everyone agree? Doing it tonight .

 

[fox]

Asking everyone to agree is dangerous!!

!00 in. lbs. is right for the VB but I'm not sure of the band in it.

mine are set to backed off 2 turns front, 3 turns rear.

 

[Ncostello]

Uhhhhh. Ummmmm. OK... I need a little help now



Well... I had some leakage around the shifter linkage shaft. The truck has been sitting all winter basically (6 months) and I assumed the fluid all drained somehow in the sump... which I assumed had thereby risen above the shaft seal and started seeping. I think I was correct because I drained a measured 10. 5 quarts out of the pan. After dropping the valve body... not really much came out. Just a few little streams for a few seconds. None of which is my problem.



Now I get curious and I go ahead and figure out how the valve body comes out. I think what the heck, might as well drop it completely. Now I can get to the shaft seal on the case for a new one... and I can put new orings on the sensor that goes up through the case.



BUT... this thing was tricky to get out. There is a linkage shaft coming from the rear housing (inside the transmission) that attaches to the valve body. There is a C clip holding it to the valve body linkage. NOT so hard to get out... but I bet I'll have a time getting it back in place. Not much room to work between the transmission and a partially dropped valve body.



Anyhoo... what in the world does the linkage do back in the transmission? I figure its an overdrive mechanism. But when I look back in the "tunnel" it runs in... It really doesn't look like its connected to anything much. Just sort of "floating around back there". If I hold it where I think it resides normally... it engages some other linkage pieces and looks OK.



How in the world do I know if I will have this shaft in place correctly once I hook the valve body back up??????????? Cause I cant really hold it in place much while I'm trying to install the valve body. Do I just connect the shaft linkage back up to the valve body... then just let it slide in place where it may???



Hope I didn't really mess this up. I'm a little worried. Taking it out was more than I bargained for.



PS: Should I let Oneal Transmission (diesel friendly 1st gen owner) do an overhaul on the valve body while its out? Is there any kits I should be considering for any reason???



Thanks TDR. I'm in a self created bind here.

 

[PToombs]

That rod is for the parking pawl. When you put it in park, that rod pulls to the front a little, the larger section on there moves an arm to lock a toothed gear. When I pulled a VB, (a long time ago) I just pulled it with the rod attached. IIRC, to put it in, just aim, and shove! It just floats in there, like you noticed. There isn't really much to service on a VB, I don't think there are any seals in it. I know if you open it up, the balls all run out, because you didn't hold it the right way to keep them in the proper spot. There will be quite a bit of black slime in it, just normal clutch disc material settlement.

As for kits, I'll let someone else answer that one. I do know the proper kit with good setup will prolong the life of the trans.

 

[Ncostello]

Thanks!! I'll sure try to get it out so I can install it on the VB easier... then put it all back in place... gently



In looking inside there... I can see the rod is fairly loose back there... but gently pulling didn't do me any good to get it out. Maybe I should pull a little harder? I looks like it almost wants to come out when looking with a mirror and pulling at the same time... but there is a tiny clearance issue from what little I can see. Didn't want to harm anything since I was in uncharted land for me.



Maybe I'll just let Oneal Trans "flush it out" or clean it a little. I had no problem with it really... just figured if there was a "kit" to improve flow or shifting I'd do it now.



I feel better.

 

[PToombs]

I'm so glad you feel better! :-laf All I did when I pulled them out was to give a good YANK! The clearance issue is most likely the arm. If you can put the T-case in neutral, you can let the gear turn for the most room to get the shaft by. Just hold a little pressure on the rod, and turn the shaft until the rod drops in, then pull.

Yeah, obviously now is the time for any work, it's in your hand. If they can install a kit and bump the line pressure a little, it will help things.

 

[Ncostello]

Not sure if this matters or not but I had the trans in neutral when I took the VB out. I'm thinking it doesn't matter.



And no transfer case on mine. I wish it did though

 

[PToombs]

Doesn't really matter. I hope the parking brake is on or you have the wheels blocked.

My thought was that if you can turn the rear trans shaft, you can click the parking pawl into it's notch and get a little extra room for removal.