valve lash adjustment???

[Money Maker]

I've searched but can't find what I'm looking for.



I know the adjustment is . 010/. 020



I also have got it sitting on TDC but I can't figure out how to tell if it is on compression or exhaust. Does it matter?



Then to move to the next cylider do you rotate the crank 360 and move down the firing order.



Is there a faster way to do them? Rotating the crank is kinda a slow process can I adjust more than one cylinder at a time when on TDC?



Thanks for the help I just hope someone can answer these ?'s soon I am supposed to be on the road right now.



Brad

 

[SHobbs]

At TDC you need to adjust #1 I and E, #2 I, #3 E, #4 I and #5 E. You can rotate the engine by using the nut on the alternator. After adjusting at TDC turn the engine 360 degrees and do #2 E, #3 I, #4 E, #5 I and #6 I and E. You need to do this with the engine cold. Pretty simple job to do just take your time, also marking the I and E and the cylinder numbers helps.

 

[Money Maker]

That helps alot, thanks

 

[tkerrigan]

You can tell that #1 is at top dead center when both valves have clearance. If only one valve wiggles, do another 360 or start with #6.

 

[RSimmons]

I use a little different method. Basically, it works on ANY 4 stroke engine and is simple.



Rotating the engine in it's normal rotation, (I use a remote starter switch and bump it around)



Intake full open then almost closed, set the exaust



Exaust barely starts to open, set the intake

 

[Money Maker]

Took about an hour to get it done and was as easy as can be. As others have said the were off a bit. All my intake valves were off but only a couple of the exhaust valves were.



Haven't really driven much since doing this but I can hear the difference at idle. Anyone that hasn't done it yet should.