Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Valve Seal Concerns

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff
Status
Not open for further replies.
Installed a PIERS stage 2 head w/ O-ring about 5 months ago on my brother in laws truck. The truck started smoking about 3 weeks ago, So we decided to give it the once over. Checked the timing and Adjusted the valves, After adjusting the valves I noticed several valve seals not seated. Now I know what valve seals are there for but when I called piers and talked to Mark he told me that this was normal!! I don't, what do you think. The truck is a 97 with #4 plate, 3k gsk, 4 in. exh, custom air filter.
 
It could be normal. Is the smoke blueish in color or is it the normal black?? I'm not sure how they do their seals but if Mark says it's normal, I would take his word for it, unless of course the engine is gulping up the oil 1 quart at a time.
 
It is blueish smoke and they are not umbrella style valve seals also it's not all the valves. I was wondering if anyone else had ever had this problem and what was the cure all. I did try to get new valve seals from them with no response.
 
How can you tell that they are not seated? Are they easy to view through the valve springs and you just eye balled the height of all of them? I doubt that Piers would send out a head with the seals not installed properly. Is the Stage II head and O-ringed head? Are you sure your not leaking oil in somewhere else? Did you do anything to the bottom end when you changed the head out? Is there any excessive oil coming out the blow-by tube by the oil pan?
 
Yes you can look at them through the springs. I wouldn't think piers would do that either but I don't have an answer as to why they didn't stay. Bottom end is stock, stage 2 head O-ringed. Was just looking for some help as to what to do to fix the problem?
 
I bet your going to have to pull the valve springs and either re-seat them or install some new ones. I don't think they can be just re-seated, it's probably best to just change them all out and see if Piers will give you a break on a set of them since you bought the head from him.
 
Thats what I was afraid of already tried to reseat them, was hopeing piers would at least send new seals. I willhave to find out if there is some adheasive that can be added to hold them in place. Thanks for your help.
 
The only seals I have used are Cummins. They are red or black rubber with a spring around them. I've never had one come up off the guide, even checking engines with 250,000 miles. Check with Piers for info on what seals he used, etc. Some types of seals do not seat on the guide, but on the valve stem.
 
TTT....Anyone else have this happen?

I had this same thing happen to me after I had the headgasket changed. Had new seals with the Cummins Top gasket set so the shop I used installed them. Had the HD Valve springs installed while head was off and valve seals. Nothing looked out of the ordinary.



A few weeks ago when I was adjusting Valve lash, I noticed seals at varies heights on the valve stem under the springs.



I can not same my oil consuption has gone up but I do have a little more blue/white smoke at startup. THis could more related to lower compression with the the thicker headgasket.



Is this something that needs to be corrected?



Can this be done with out pulling the head?



jjw

ND
 
I have my head off for work and was planning to replace the seals, but maybe I should leave them alone? They are all seated well and appear to be in good shape, the valves had very little buildup from oil leakage. I have 352k on it, but the valve guides and stems look great.



Vaughn
 
JJW_ND said:
Is this something that needs to be corrected?



Can this be done with out pulling the head?



jjw

ND



I would correct it and yes it can be done without pulling the head. You will need to bring each piston to top so the valves can't drop into the cylinder and requires a special spring compressor found at most Auto Parts stores. I tried the one from Schucks and it failed. The one from NAPA looks much better and should work.
 
Thanks for the tip. I paid a shop to the do the head work so I think they will "help" me out in making this right.



jjw

ND
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top