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VE gov springs...

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Pics of my '93

after 1300 mile pull

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What you guys think of these VE governor springs . . got a couple pics in my readers rigs. . thanks to pwrtripls1 on DTR and JLeonard for the research and legwork. Don't know if they will work. The long spring is numbered 374, its a 3800rpm spring from a Volvo TAMD41 diesel with a VE pump. I don't know what rpm the 386 spring is... sure would like to know. I posted a thread on dtr about this. How do you guys think the longer 374 spring would work? PB already commented that it may hit the inside of the pump before getting WOT travel. Pic is stock 388, 366- 3200rpm, 374- 3800rpm, and 386 ?rpm.
 
Bill,



As I understand it..... a stiffer spring will pull the gov towards full fuel more so than a lighter one. This is because it will take more speed and thus force from the flyweights to create a balanced state between the two.



You need a stiffer spring to obtain full fuel longer in the rpm band. A lighter spring will allow the weight force to level out sooner.



If I'm wrong then somebody pleez help me as this is the principle the entire governor is based upon.



This can be a sticky subject as everybody wants more fuel in the rpm band and study of gov function is critical.



Scott
 
Well yes and I forgot to say the 374 is the stiffest spring. It's the toughest to pull apart. As KTA said maybe its longer cause its soo stiff and they had to make it that long in order to get it to idle. I may try this one since it has a known rpm size. I may have wasted the $$ on the 386 spring as it seems only slightly stiffer if at all than the 366 and just a little more than the stock 388.
 
Bill,



It's no (fuel injection pump) secret that if you want mo fuel at the top end you install a stiffer spring. You don't need a Bosch pump spring. Git them @ your local hardware store. The wire dia. has a lot to do with it. You can locate a spring the correct length and have a tad bit thicker wire. She will scream though. Remember me telling you to git them heavy (valve) spring thingys, hummmmm?



GL
 
The '386' spring is listed/rated as a 2800 RPM application.

The 354 spring is " " as a 4200 RPM application.

The 374 spring is " " as a 3800 RPM application.

Just for fits and giggles here are a couple other's you might want to tinker with... .



0-460-414-157 - 3600 RPM ( VE4 appl)

0-460-416-082 - 3600 RPM (different pump than one above) (VE6 appl. )

0-460-406-008 - 4000 RPM (VE6 appl. )



Remember, the springs are all of varying lengths and mods will need to be made internally to actually be able to run them or test them. You'll need to find the appropriate throttle shaft w/connecting linkage to swap out parts on your own VE pump shaft... . hint, hint... :D:D

There is another option as well... you can use a 3200 RPM spring (366), clip a coil off it and reform the hook loop on the clipped end and try that as possible substitution... . I don't know what the resulting spring would 'translate to in RPM rating) but it may be a way around having to mod internal parts to use the higher RPM springs in their "natural state".



Also you'll need to make good use of your governor screw to keep these in control... Anything over about 3400 RPM is entering the high risk zone and you WILL need to change your valve springs to the heavier ones and also have a dead on valve set to keep the safety margin even remotely intact...



pb...
 
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Well thats great, I wasted $14 on a 2800rpm spring:mad:. Oh well, R&D... thanks Bob for the other info. . now if we could just get some pics of these springs. . find one similiar in length to the 366, only stiffer and thicker. . yeah yeah GL says go to Ace...
 
:D:D... . you might be very surprised at the "source" for some of the springs being used...

All you need to keep in mind is the environment that these things need to exist in... temps inside the pump can get pretty toasty so I'd try to stick with "good quality material" when it comes to "alternative" spring choices. . :D

pb... ... .
 
This weekend I experimented with a self-modified governor spring. The slow idle RPM's are so fast that I had to reindex the throttle shaft/throttle lever to allow the engine to return to an acceptable rpm.



A stiffer gov spring combined with a bottomed out full fuel screw will net slow idle rpm WELL past 1000 rpm. *****Caution***** The modified spring will allow 4,000 rpm's, plus. Do so at your own risk.



GL
 
Darn Scott, I wish I knew you were in a pump, I would've sent this 3800rpm spring for you to try, I'd like to know how it would work... . Maybe a 'longer' stiff spring would allow it idle at a more reasonable rate... ... hmm?
 
Pump work

Scott, do you have a test stand or do you just try these things cold turky and grit your teeth hopeing they don't scatter?



James
 
"... ... . Scott, do you have a test stand or do you just try these things cold turky and grit your teeth hopeing they don't scatter?... ... . "



Well HECK ya... ... that's the only way us 1st genners do things..... fire it up, honk down on 'er and hold on... . Ya Baby... . Ya..... :D:D:D:D



pb.....
 
Yeah... . like Bob said.



A longer spring may help out at idle speed. However with reindexing, it's a moot point. I would like to try one sometime. I'd be interested to know if the spring would be too long and couse problems when the throttle shaft reaches the WOT position.
 
http://www.mcmaster.com/



Sorry to raise this one up, but I just saw this thread.

If you go to the above link and type in "spring" into the search box you will find probably any spring you want to try in the pump.

Bill, you can measure what you have, then poke around in the "extension spring" category and pick what you need based on length, load, wire diameter, etc.

Happy hunting.

Jay



edit... forgot to say you will recieve it the next day.
 
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