Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Vibration damper removal question. Need advice.

[tolmsted]

I did a search and someone posted that he had to remove the transmission inspection plate to "lock' the clutch plate from rotating in order to torque the bolts on the damper.

I'm trying to loosen the damper bolts but the crank rotates even with the transmission (5 speed) in gear.

The factory service manual only says to remove the belt and remove the bolts.....

I even reinstalled the belt and that does not help.

Is locking the clutch plate the only way to prevent the crank from rotating? I'm thinking there is an easier way.
Large strap wrench. The one from Home Depot that plumber use only has a 17" strap. It takes 24" to get around the damper. Guess I'll have to be like the Marines, adapt, improvise, overcome. I'm off to Harbor Freight & Sears tomorrow morning to see if they have something that will work. Not sure if locking the clutch is a good thing to do.

What say TDR?

Thanks in advance.
Tom

 

[Cosmo]

alldata says they're torqued to 92 pounds, there shouldn't really be a trick to it. What gear are you using when you have it in gear? Put it in 5th and have someone stand on the brakes, and use a long breaker bar.

As a last resort, you could try bracing your wrench against something solid (frame rail, etc) and blipping the starter. It's how we get our crank pulley bolts out at work - although ours are a single big bolt in the center, it should still work (and it's free).

 

[Bob4x4]

The engine barring tool works the safest to hold the engine but there are many more not so cool ways... .....

 

[Joe Mc]

I took out the 3 screws that hold the inspection cover on the bellhousing (automatic) and turned the dampener bolt to make sure which way the flywheel was turning when trying to loosen. I clamped a pair of vice grips on the ring gear and slowly turned the bolt on the dampener until the grips wedged against the bellhousing. Then clamped another pair on the opposite side so when I installed new one it wouldn't move. Worked for me. Hope this helps. Yeah, manuals often times leave out key elements needed and just say "remove bolts" . . .

 

[tolmsted]

Thanks for all the posts.

I did the 5th gear trick and it worked just fine.

Tom

 

[WWillisJr]

I replaced mine with the Fluidampr; I removed the inspection plate and used a prybar placed in the flywheel teeth to keep it from rotating... I slowly rotated the damper until pressure kept the prybar holding the flywheel in place. No marks, no mars, and an easy damper replacement & torque. All in all it took me about 20 minutes.

 

[MLee]

When I did the KDP and replaced everything I was able to find the right spot to torque the bolts which counter torqued the revolving shaft. Its there you just have to find it.