Vibration under power, (harmonic damper?)

[TFreeman]

Hi everyone, first post on the forum here. I have an 06 2500 QCSB 4x4 with around 182k miles on it. I have began to notice a vibration under power at around 1500 rpms. Seems to stop when I come off the accelerator.

Some things I have been reading have led me to think it may be the HD, I'm trying to inspect it, but I need some clarification on the what to look for. I have not pulled it from the truck, but I have ran my phone up and around recording a sorry video, as well as felt for voids.

It appears through those two methods that the alignment marks between the two pieces are still in line. The rubber on the non pulley side seems to be intact all the way around but it feels rough. Best way to describe it would be that it feels like a sloppy bead of silicone had cures in between the two pieces. The rubber is not smooth and feels a bit like it's been picked at.

Visually in my, bad unfocused, video it is easy to spot how in even the surface of the rubber is.

I've had the truck for the last 85k miles and have not paid attention to the damper beyond turning the motor to TDC. So I'm guessing it's safe to say the HD is original.

I'd like to hear some feed back on this before spending anything on a new damper or throwing money at this vibration. I appreciate any help.

Thanks
Trevor

 

[GCroyle]

Trevor,

Welcome to TDR. Somebody will chime in but I'd like to ask that you include if its an auto or manual and any repairs that might be a contributor or possible cause.

Gary

 

[TFreeman]

https://youtu.be/1frTAhL7Tfs Here is the crappy video I shot.

Thanks for the reply. The truck is an automatic transmission. No recent repairs made. I did the injectors about 4 years ago, no other repairs beyond rear ujoint at the axle and some maintenance items. I am due up for a tire rotation but seems to be more based on engine rpms.

I also have smarty Jr. Installed on performance setting.

 

[Killer223]

Draw a line from the inner half to the outer half, drive around and shut down and see if it still lines up.

 

[cerberusiam]

With the miles injectors are a distinct possibility. If you have a manual trans consider replacing the clutch, with an auto start checking u joints, with both look at the rear drive line center support bearing.

Need more info on what your truck configuration is.

 

[TFreeman]

Draw a line from the inner half to the outer half, drive around and shut down and see if it still lines up.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it should have an indexing line from the factory. See 19 sec mark in the above video

 

[TFreeman]

With the miles injectors are a distinct possibility. If you have a manual trans consider replacing the clutch, with an auto start checking u joints, with both look at the rear drive line center support bearing.

Need more info on what your truck configuration is.

Post number 3 has most of that info answered. I do need to raise the front end and check driveline. Rear has been checked.

 

[Motorhead]

If you have a two piece rear drive shaft then I have read where the center support bearing and/or the rubber around it can deteriorate. I know you said you checked the rear drive line but look closely at EACH bearing cup on each U-joint. Look for rust staining. I have two sets of large Channel lock pliers. I will use one pair to hold the flange on the differential tight and either by hand or use the other set of channel locks and turn the drive shaft back and forth while holding the differential flange tight. I look for any play in the U joint. Repeat this with all other u joints on the drive lines.

 

[TFreeman]

Motorhead thanks, I like the channel lock method, will use that, I'll check the front and redo the rear. I did not notice any rust on the previous check, but will double check next time I can get under there.

 

[Tuesdak]

Rubber on damper looks fine from video. Bad would be rubber squeezing out or chunks missing. Do inspect the backside of it for this.

 

[cerberusiam]

Injectors, rear driveline center support, now that it is known an auto trans the TC. Any or all could be the source and are suspect until eliminated. Tires are also a possibility if you have the lighter cheaper types.

 

[TFreeman]

Rubber on damper looks fine from video. Bad would be rubber squeezing out or chunks missing. Do inspect the backside of it for this.

Thanks for that info. I guess if the rest of the rotating driveline checks out I'll try and get at the back side of the HD

 

[Motorhead]

Just a question, If the Harmonic Dampener was bad, would you be able to duplicate the vibration in Neutral and rev the engine to 1500 rpm? Does the vibration happen in each gear of the automatic? If it does then Like cerberusiam said, it could be the Torque convertor.
It might be an idea to pull the inspection cover at the automatic and check for either loose torque convertor bolts or possibly a cracked flex plate.

 

[TFreeman]

Injectors, rear driveline center support, now that it is known an auto trans the TC. Any or all could be the source and are suspect until eliminated. Tires are also a possibility if you have the lighter cheaper types.

Just a question, If the Harmonic Dampener was bad, would you be able to duplicate the vibration in Neutral and rev the engine to 1500 rpm? Does the vibration happen in each gear of the automatic? If it does then Like cerberusiam said, it could be the Torque convertor.
It might be an idea to pull the inspection cover at the automatic and check for either loose torque convertor bolts or possibly a cracked flex plate.

Looks like I missed cerberusiam's last post. The tires are nitto terra grapplers, few sizes bigger than stock, 305/315 can't remember off the top of my head.

looks like I've got some more diagnosing to do, and I've got to find the exact time this is going on. I was out of town for the last week and really haven't been able to do too much on it since we got back.

 

[wcjp]

I had a similar vibration as you. My factory rear driveline Ujoints looked fine when on the truck. With the driveline removed from the truck the bad Ujoint was obvious. I did diagnose the bad Ujoint with Heat signature. The bad Ujoint was 10deg warmer than the good Ujoint.

 

[TFreeman]

I had a similar vibration as you. My factory rear driveline Ujoints looked fine when on the truck. With the driveline removed from the truck the bad Ujoint was obvious. I did diagnose the bad Ujoint with Heat signature. The bad Ujoint was 10deg warmer than the good Ujoint.

Am I wrong in assuming that you found the difference in heat while it was on the truck, then removed it and noticed the obvious bad joint?


Also if I need to or otherwise decide to re torque the TC bolts, ss hold I remove, apply locktite, re torque to spec? What ft/lbs is spec?

Thanks for the help, looking at Friday for the diagnostics, maybe tomorrow when I get to work I'll pull off the thermal imager and check the heat in the joints

 

[TFreeman]

So I have finally gotten around to checking some things on the truck.

When I posted this I had gone 7 days with out driving the truck so idk if I was wrong or hadn't quite pinpointed it before or the vibration has become more evident, but now as of this morning I believed it was rotational, and more noticeable on acceleration. I also could see the vibe in the steering wheel. Roughly 20 mph and up.

I was able to get the truck off the ground, checked all the ujoint a with the plier method mentioned earlier, noticed no rust or play, pulled the inspection plates on the bell housing checked one TC bolt. It was snug. Then I grabbed the drag link in the process of moving around under there and felt a lot of rotational play with almost no resistance. At the ends. After a little research, worn ends in the steering linkage could cause all my symptoms. Here's another crappy video showing how easily it is moved.
https://youtu.be/OrESU0A6Cmo

I went ahead and ordered the 08.5 + linkage and pitman arm, plan on having the bilstein damper as well. What do you fine folks think about this as a possible solution?

Thanks.

 

[cerberusiam]

Yep, that center ball is shot. However, that is not going to create a rotation vibration. Tires do that, drive center support does that, not loose steering components.

 

[TFreeman]

Yep, that center ball is shot. However, that is not going to create a rotation vibration. Tires do that, drive center support does that, not loose steering components.

I did a tire rotation the other day when I shot the video. I think the vibration moved to the rear of the truck. So like you said tires do that, I will have the balance checked. Steering will be here today minus the damper that should show up on Monday.

 

[wantabe351]

Also ck you exhaust system muffler/tail pipe for the tail pipe on mine had rusted away on the very top where the upper bracket was welded, and it had changed the alignment.. so every acceleration there was a vibration found the pipe while under checking the ujoints..