2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Vibrations - "Think" I located source.

[Joe Mc]

Guys this has been driving me nuts for years. See info in post link below. Then read latest finding below the link.





https://www.turbodieselregister.com...2062-would-you-put-these-back-your-truck.html



With axels out, on stands, started up, put in neutral, then drive, gradually ran speed up to feeling slight vibration (45 - 50) then increased speed to 60 - 70, frequency of vibration increased. Now the vibration was not as noticable as when the axels were in, but it's the "same" frequency but not as pronounced - less rotating mass - make sense?

I had my daughter get behind wheel and do as I had - in gear at speed mentioned above - I put hand on carrier bearing, vibe present, moved forward and placed hand on trans tail shaft, vibe present a bit more noticable. Shut down, put in park, started up and ran engine rpm up to 1600-1700, no vibes from trans, but still noticable and at same frequency. Moved to front of engine put hand on front of oil pan - BINGO - I hope, the vibe was there at the same frequency just barely noticable.



So, I'm thinking the balancer is the culprit? I had this happen on a 289 Ford, going down the highway the whole car felt like it was going to come apart, after the balancer was replaced smooth as silk. I feel like an idiot for not looking at this first - having experienced this many years back with the 289, but it wasn't making sense with the truck as other factors were looking more promising as being the problem.



Now, before I spend ?$$$? on a fluid dampner, how to check the exisiting balancer to "make sure" it is the problem? I've thrown so much $$$ at this thing trying to smooth it out my wife is ready to kill me :-{}. So, I'm hopeful someone can shed some light on:

1-if the balancer could be the problem - to me it seems to make sense - less rotating mass (axels out, wheels off) less noticable vibes.

2-how to "make sure" the balancer is the problem - how to inspect it.



Man if this is it I'm going to do the Snoopy dance. :-laf

 

[tgordon]

Only if you get it fixed and provide video proof can you use any ideas written on this site

:-laf:-laf:-laf



I do not recal the actual numbers, but on engines they recomend replceing the balancers every XXXX hours, when somethin ggoes wrong, or when they are overhauled. I want to say it was something like 5,000 hours or less. Granted dad has two tractors that have never been overhauled, one has a recorded 14,000 hrs, I say recorded because it is on the second tach, adn the other rolled over 11,000 and both have the original balancers.



My only surefire way would be to find one from a friend and barrow it to try on your truck.

 

[kelly4463]

Joe snoopy dance is this before the beer !!!lol

 

[Oil Burner]

I hope that is your problem. I remember your posts all the way back to thinking it was a tire balancing problem which seems like more than a year ago.



You have put up with this WAY longer than I could have. On the plus side, you know your truck better now than ever after all of this. Imagine how good it will feel when you get this solved. That's the end of my pep talk...



Good luck.



Jason

 

[Joe Mc]

yep it's been well over a year - and to boot I have a broken band in one of the Nittos on the left front and thanks to the open end diff out back a nearly bald right rear.



Thanks for the good words, but anyone have a thought on my process "seems to make sense"?



And, Kelly, snoopy dance - doesn't matter if it's before - during - or after beer, as long as this is the deal. Ah, hey there homeboy, like tgordon suggested, the only sure fire way is to borrow someone else's balancer and see if it makes a difference . . . so what cha doin tomorrow pal? ? ? Hows a bout we take your balancer and try it on my truck before I fork out another $414. 00 + shipping on the vibration monster. Not to mention another $600+ in tires that I need, while I'm at it I may as well get a locker unit for that stupid a_s open rear end - at least the back tires will wear evenly:-laf:{ don't know if I should laugh or cry at this point.

 

[GAmes]

They are very hard to see, but there are scribe marks on the inner and outer pieces of the damper. If they are not aligned the bonded rubber has failed.

 

[kelly4463]

Hay my brother from another mother i will be at the vet at 6:15 tomorrow night with SCOOBY-DOO i can stop by your house and give it a try after that !!!!!!Oo.

I work at scrappys tomorrow buff & shine buff & shine:-laf:-laf give me a call

 

[Joe Mc]

They are very hard to see, but there are scribe marks on the inner and outer pieces of the damper. If they are not aligned the bonded rubber has failed.

OUTSTANDING!!!! Finaly something that sounds like it makes sense, easy to inspect - unbelieveableOo. I'll take a look see tomorrow.



Thanks Kelly, I'll give a call after I look at the shop manual to see how difficult an R & R is . . .

 

[Joe Mc]

Removed balancer - no hash marks? I scraped all the paint off it with a carbide tipped gasket remover tool. Only thing that showed up was made in Mexico. No Hash marks. The rubber looked a bit dry rotted and the weight part seemed to have moved forward from the hub - I ordered a Fluidampr $$$.



An odd thing I noticed there's no key or anything to index the balancer to the crank - it just pops on and bolts up regardless of which 90 degree you line it up too? I find that odd as there's drill holes to remove weight on the back side - I guess that's ZERO balance so it doesn't matter? Anyway won't matter anymore once the Fluidampr arrives. Still need to get the axels to a machine shop and have them spun on a lathe. More to come . . . hopefully the Snoopy Dance . . . :-laf

 

[GAmes]

I told you they are hard to see. Only about 1/8 inch long right at the edge of the rubber. I can't remember front or back. There is no key because there are no timing marks. That is the purpose of the key on a gasser. It is not a balancer, it is a damper.

 

[Joe Mc]

GAmes - I even put my glases on and looked at both sides after removing rust and paint . . . they sure are hard to see . . . anyway the fulidampr is ordered - thanks for the clarification on "Dampner" Vs "Balancer".

 

[dodgeguy44]

Keep us posted Joe MC as I think mine is doing the same thing.

 

[Joe Mc]

I put it on and things sure seem different, more revie, smoother at idle, 2k and 3k smooth. Unexpected thing - from idle if you goose the go pedal it seems to rev quicker. I'm happy. As far as the going down the road vibration thing . . . still haven't been able to get the rear axels to a machine shop to check run out and see if they can "true up" if needed. I hope to get it together this weekend. Will keep posted.

 

[Joe Mc]

OK so the Fluidampr smoothed things out very well. However, in speaking with fellow at machine shop I took axels to he told me the axels (by nature of design, flanges, inner diff bearings and floating hub bearings) would straighten out as they are installed and torqued. He also said his experience w/D70s are the spider gears are not friendly and if the vibration was in the rear it would be either the spiders, carrier bearings or the hub bearings. I had replaced the hub bearings, inner/outter & races. I had not re-installed the axels at the time I spoke with him after the bearings so I decided to install and see what was what. BINGO the only vibrations I feel now are from the Nittos separated bands - from hitting a curb last winter L/F and a really bad pot hole R/R. So, it's true that if there's a problem in the rear it can transmit throughout the whole truck. Man this has haunted me for so long I'm finally happy it's done. I hope . . .

 

[wilsonsh]

Hey Joe... so replacing the hub bearings, inner/outer races solved the vibration problem?

 

[tdcummins]

Just curious to see if the vibs are totally gone!