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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) VP-44 failure question, does it seem like one?

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I have a 2001 standard output, 5speed, 91k, edge-ez, bhaf, 4" exhaust.



I don't drive my truck on a day to day basis. I average less then 6k a year. I change the oil every 3k and fuel filter every other time. I monitor my fuel pressure and replaced my lift pump when it could no longer hold 5psi.



I think i have a VP failure because:



In the mountains towing, when I come out of a switch back I have a dead pedal feel. I have to down shift to get moving again. It feels like I'm lacking power.



My boost is low. I can only get to 20psi with my ez and elbow. Also with the lower boost my egts didn't climb. I can't get past 1250.



Low rpm somke is gone, I only get a slight puff now.



I have no codes stored in history or pending codes(none with the key cycles either).



I've cleaned the MAP and the IAT sensors, there seems to be no excess play in the turbo shaft. My exhaust brake returns to the fully open position. LP pressure not below 13psi now.



Thanks for the time

Brian
 
BCobain said:
I have a 2001 standard output, 5speed, 91k, edge-ez, bhaf, 4" exhaust.



I don't drive my truck on a day to day basis. I average less then 6k a year. I change the oil every 3k and fuel filter every other time. I monitor my fuel pressure and replaced my lift pump when it could no longer hold 5psi.



I think i have a VP failure because:



In the mountains towing, when I come out of a switch back I have a dead pedal feel. I have to down shift to get moving again. It feels like I'm lacking power.



My boost is low. I can only get to 20psi with my ez and elbow. Also with the lower boost my egts didn't climb. I can't get past 1250.



Low rpm somke is gone, I only get a slight puff now.



I have no codes stored in history or pending codes(none with the key cycles either).



I've cleaned the MAP and the IAT sensors, there seems to be no excess play in the turbo shaft. My exhaust brake returns to the fully open position. LP pressure not below 13psi now.



Thanks for the time

Brian



Since you have no codes showing I would guess it's mechanical and not electrical. You're conditions sound exactly like what i had after leaving a clamp loose on one of the boost hoses. Truck sort of ran OK but on a hill or under load it had nothing.

I would check all your hoses and clamps from the turbo to the engine and see if there's an air leak somewhere.

Mike
 
Brian,

I too experienced the 'dead peddle' syndrome... I did have the codes and I'm sorry to say that once it starts the 'dead peddle' thing the VP-44 is gone.

I limped around for another 2k miles before it got so bad it had to be done.

At 72k it started and at 74k I had a new VP-44.

I called my local dealer 1st, then I drove to Simi Valley CA and went into a dealer down there (I'm a business traveler). Once I returned home I called my local dealer again and because I had a paper trail from two different dealers in two different locations within 30 days thats when they opened the appointment and replaced the VP-44 under warranty.



I did not have a fuel gauge at the time. The second LP had failed and I never knew it.



I completely engineered my fuel delivery system after the new VP-44. Feed PSI is 17Lbs now and never drops below 15. 5



Sorry... Good luck

William
 
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Hopefully its something like the APPS (TPS as Monkeyman says). You might try disconnecting the batts and turning the key on when theres no power - to drain the ecm. Then do the pedal to the floor thing 3 times with the key on before you restart it. Might get lucky and just needed to recalibrate the apps since it sits alot... Kinda doubting it, but worth a shot.
 
Shortshift,

Sorry but,this information needs to be put to rest.



Brian, Please refer to this information regarding your APPS



www.dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/TPS_adjust.htm



The info of disconnecting the batteries turning on the ignition and or flooring the accelerator peddle and releasing it or anything else regarding the APPS/TPS device is in great error.



Shortshift I'm not flaming you and I too fell for the 'shake the rubber chicken' procedure but, Bill K at DTT and Geno's has the straight scoop on the adjustment of the APPS/TPS.



I don't know who started the miss-information about this but, it is well documented in correct form.



Please, also see DTT web site and take a look at the tech forums you will see Bill K's original documentation of the APPS device.



Unfortunately, I belive Brian's APPS/TPS is not the problem here.



Respectfully

William
 
WTBurke said:
Shortshift,

Sorry but,this information needs to be put to rest.



Brian, Please refer to this information regarding your APPS



www.dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/TPS_adjust.htm



The info of disconnecting the batteries turning on the ignition and or flooring the accelerator peddle and releasing it or anything else regarding the APPS/TPS device is in great error.



Shortshift I'm not flaming you and I too fell for the 'shake the rubber chicken' procedure but, Bill K at DTT and Geno's has the straight scoop on the adjustment of the APPS/TPS.



I don't know who started the miss-information about this but, it is well documented in correct form.



Please, also see DTT web site and take a look at the tech forums you will see Bill K's original documentation of the APPS device.



Unfortunately, I belive Brian's APPS/TPS is not the problem here.



Respectfully

William

You're giving bad info here. The "disconnect the batteries" method is in fact a valid way to reset the APPS. As is the method you posted the link to. They each have their purpose, and it's very different.



Disconnecting the batteries will force the ECM to relearn the minimum (idle) and max (full throttle) voltages for the APPS. So if you're idling a bit high or are not getting max rpms, this is the adjustment to make. It will not help with flat spots in mid pedal travel (That's just a worn APPS). This is the procedure specified in the Dodge service manual for resetting the ECM to a newly installed APPS, and applies to both manual and automatic trucks.



The method you listed above is for reclocking the APPS potentiometer so the PCM will match what the ECM sees, and the Automatic transmission will shift properly (hence the reason it's on the DTT website). The ECM will adjust to the new voltages automatically, but the PCM will not. Thus the need for manually resetting the APPS. Once it's reset at the PCM, then the ECM will adjust itself and the engine and trans will work together. This adjustment is only needed for Automatics, and is a waste of time on manual transmission trucks since thier PCM doesn't care what the APPS signal is.



Both methods are valid, and they serve two different purposes.
 
IF the reply by PC12Driver is correct then I think it should be "sticky notes" to the FAQ. This has been in and out of the threads for years and maybe this explanation should be "sticky notes" to FAQ to put this one to bed.



Bob Weis
 
Thanks PC, you beat me to the response. . I remembered reading your discussion about this in a previous thread and had confirmed BCobain has an NV4500 transmission, so thats why I gave the "simple" recommendation. Agreed, its a long shot, but worth trying.

Respectfully
Phil
 
BCobain said:
I have no codes stored in history or pending codes(none with the key cycles either).



He has no codes. I think everything we're talking about (VP, dead peddel, APPS) would have thrown a code.

Seems like it has to be something else.

Mike
 
Well..... okee dokee... :rolleyes:



Brian, I would be most interested in the final out come of what you have experienced.



As you can see many of us may have had the unpleasant experience of loosing a VP-44. All of us wish to help and I guess that comes from the less than helpful dealership technicians who might have been learning their trade while practicing on our trucks.



I would appreciate your observations.



William
 
Well I tried the APPS reset, this had no effect. My drivability has many similarities as a vp failure. The no code thing worries me though.



I feels like it is not fueling down low or up high, though I have never had a strong pulling truck above 2900rpm. No/little clouds of smoke while lugging off in second gear, just a puff.



I test drove a 2003 stuck CTD today and noticed it lays out more smoke then my truck, the 03 was a auto.



I can tow a 8k load and lug the truck and not get above 1300 and it very slow(roofing shingles are waaayy heavy)



Well after lots of reading and only finding 2 or three truck that had no CEL I'm guessing it is a VP. This is scary because the other owners didn't say what fixed their trucks.



I will post back up in a month or two with the final results after the vp replacement. I will also call indrustrial injection to hear what they have to say. I just have to wait for that extra thousand to burn.



thank you

Brian
 
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