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Competition VP-44 vs P7100

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Competition Automatic versus manual

Competition Gears

Which truck to get???



I was thinking that the 94-98. 5 was the truck I wanted to build up for 500+ daily driver... . you know, twins, ported, cam, studs, tweak this and that kinda truck.



Seeing a few good deals on 99-02 24 valvers though?



What do you all feel are the major pro vs cons to this consideration???



:confused:
 
For a pretty high hp daily driver, I personally like the ability to turn the 'smoke' leve down on a 24 valve. At that hp range both truck ideas will be just fine though.
 
98. 5 and up are 24V ..... 98 and older are 12V



i am with Gus on this ..... it is nice to be able to turn down the smoke when you want



you can build a 500hp truck pretty easy with a box, turbo and injectors





Scott
 
98. 5-2002. Expect cracked blocks, weak injection pumps/lift pumps, electronic gremlins that will drive you crazy. Avoid those engines at all costs.
 
The block cracking is highly overrated, if you are going to make hp. a weak stock pump/lift pump combo isn't going to be much of a concern. Buy what gets you the best deal, the money will come out the same either way... . pay it now or pay it later.
 
I tell you what, The VP-44 is responsible for a lotttt of Chevy sales. If Ford wasn't having worst luck with the 6. 0 at the same time, Dodge may have been run out of the Diesel market!!!;)



Matt, do a search on 12vs24, or post war or something. There were several threads around 2000 ish, post war. It was great. The new 24 valve owners would come in and tell how awesome their truck was, then put a box and injectors on and post some more... . a few weeks later, lift pump failure..... few weeks after that, VP-44 failure..... leaking anti-freeze, the 12V guys enjoyed it immensley!!Oo.





But, if you find a nice truck, cheap, buy it. The engine can be replaced with a properly valved, propelry pumped version of the 5. 9 Cummins. :-laf
 
Turn the smoke down... blah blah blah...

It's easy on a 12v folks. $30 in parts and a switch on the dash. From 400hp to 190hp in the flip of a switch...

When my "electronics" die on my 12v... guess what... . a zip tie can make it run and get me where I need to go.

266,000 miles, and I just changed my lift pump. Why? Cause I was chasing a knock and was hoping it would be something cheap and easy.

OH... . as long as the debate lives on... . How many VP44 engines can rev past 4500?

Lets see... as far as Jason is concerned... . Lets see a 215hp (913) P-7100. . 370's $400, Custom ground fuel plate $0, Delivery Valves, $400. Whoops... you only wanted 450hp... . What kind of torque? OH ya, this isn't a Common Rail engine, we can break the 1000lbs mark and be under 600hp... ...

JP
 
Turn the smoke down... blah blah blah...



It's easy on a 12v folks. $30 in parts and a switch on the dash. From 400hp to 190hp in the flip of a switch...



When my "electronics" die on my 12v... guess what... . a zip tie can make it run and get me where I need to go.



266,000 miles, and I just changed my lift pump. Why? Cause I was chasing a knock and was hoping it would be something cheap and easy.



OH... . as long as the debate lives on... . How many VP44 engines can rev past 4500?



Lets see... as far as Jason is concerned... . Lets see a 215hp (913) P-7100. . 370's $400, Custom ground fuel plate $0, Delivery Valves, $400. Whoops... you only wanted 450hp... . What kind of torque? OH ya, this isn't a Common Rail engine, we can break the 1000lbs mark and be under 600hp... ...



JP



How much are plates should one have too buy one?
 
Well, OK, I hear ya.

My quandry is, for a tow rig, I'm a bit hesitant on 12V trucks because they're old enough that other stuff is falling apart or beat to hell.

So I'd feel a bit better with a truck <10 years old. Is the p-pump conversion of a 24V worth the work/cost?

I imagine Sleddy saying "just yank the whole thing. "

Is the reliability of the VP44 really that bad, if fed properly with a good lift pump? I don't hear public outcry about them... .
 
Is the reliability of the VP44 really that bad, if fed properly with a good lift pump? I don't hear public outcry about them... .





You have been in Chevy land too long. Do a search for VP44 cooling. There is a thread miles long, after they got the fuel supply problem solved, the fuel HEAT frys the electronics.

Been there, done that. #@$%!

I have a hunch the new fuel will start destroying the 44s, also.



I wouldn't buy any truck more than 5 years old in our neck of the woods, too much salt.



There isn't anything that can't be rebuilt or replaced on these trucks.
 
How much are plates should one have too buy one?



Read what I said. You can buy a fuel plate for $250... . But you were talking under $1000... . It was 2am, and I didn't want to do any more math than I had to.



Or... you can read the various threads, "custom" grind a 100 plate out of your stock one and have $0 like I said. Then again... . it's early again... Lets add a 3k GSK, so now your clear to 3300rpms... $140.



Still under a grand, and with that 913 pump Guys have been up in the mid to high 500hp ranges... . Granted... not on a stock turbo, but it's been done.





And they have torque that the common rail engines just don't have.
 
Last month in was in the market for a Tow rig,

I love my 12 V and wanted another for towing, Then I looked at what I would need to do to have a little more power (towing power)



So I weighed my options



12 V

1. Fuel plate

2. dowel pin

3. Govenor springs

4. 370's

All that work (not that its a lot but... )and maybe more,

then the EGT's might be to much for towing so put a valet switch on, well now your back down to stock power if not less



24 V

1. Lift pump

2. maybe a VP

3. put a programmer on it and be done!

4. Easy to adjust fueling at a touch for towing or Playing:-laf



So I found a 24 V with 120 K on it for $10,000 that wouldn't start,Of course the guy didn't know what it needed so I bought it and put a HPFP and a VP.

The truck runs great:)



Now don't get me wrong I LOVE MY P-PUMP and everything about it:)



Well I guess I got a little off topic but that's my reason for buying a 24 V for a "Tow rig"





Michael
 
Hey Gene,
I'm running 450 hp and my 99 has never had a vp issue. I have the 053 block and replaced my lift pump a long time ago. No electronic gremlins either. I personnally haven't heard of a vp44 that went bye bye after it had a good fuel supply unless it had previously been starved for fuel and already damaged. And to make matters sweeter, it still gets 20mpg on the highway doing 70+. This is doing the math, not depending on the computer.
Ya, you can do a search and turn up just about any problem in quantity. I am sure the Under Valved Stooooopid pump trucks have thier own issues. But the 24V kicks butt, and I happen to LOVE it. :-{} :-{} :D :D
 
Read what I said. You can buy a fuel plate for $250... . But you were talking under $1000... . It was 2am, and I didn't want to do any more math than I had to.



Or... you can read the various threads, "custom" grind a 100 plate out of your stock one and have $0 like I said. Then again... . it's early again... Lets add a 3k GSK, so now your clear to 3300rpms... $140.



Still under a grand, and with that 913 pump Guys have been up in the mid to high 500hp ranges... . Granted... not on a stock turbo, but it's been done.





And they have torque that the common rail engines just don't have.



Ok, so the prices are about the same. Not to deviate to much, but the EGTs can't be nearly as low as a CR at that same HP with stock turbo.



As far as Torque. The CR's have a long bigger range of slightly less torque. the VP's DROP like a rock once they peek. Top end wise, that's where the CR's shine.



totally different approaches to diesel power bands that's for sure. As far as which is better, I'd chalk it up to personal preference, I like my 1800-3200 band of HP and torque.
 
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