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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) VP44 ? Engine loopeing, No throttle response

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hi all, I got a problem with my 98. 5. Today I developed a minor lope, under no load. Then it started cutting out, (starving for fuel, I suspect), but I still had throttle response. about 3 min. later no throttle. I was close to home on back roads, so I idled home. I did have Check Engine Lite on, and a high idle (1100 rpm). Once home I shut down and did the key on-off thing four times leaving it on, thinking I would get codes, but I guess this is for 2000 and up, not 98. 5. When I was done I fired it up, and it runs fine, no lite, normal idle, and good throttle. I do have edge comp with the wire soldered. This is my second pump, with the comp on for 2000 mi.

P. S. Fuel Pressure never below 10 psi post filter



I'm afraid to drive it, don't wanna walk in below zero temps. Do ya think this is my pump again? Is there any way to get codes without a scanner?



Thanks for any help, BILL.
 
codes

On the 98. 5 you need to turn the key on-off and leave it on the 3rd. time with-in 5 seconds... not 4. Hope this helps. Sure your fuel wasn't gelling up??
 
That's good then. . hopefully you don't have any codes,, but if you had the check engine light. . it should have set some sort of code unless the problem corrected it self and cleared the code. Now when checking for codes on yours with the key on-off-on, etc. , you have to watch the check engine light for flashes, that is the code being spelled out, now on the newer ones, it is displayed in the odometer. Sorry I forgot you had fp gauge,,, good insurance when in cold weather. Well good luck and hope it keeps running ok :):)
 
I was starring at check engine lite and not one blink. My problems rarley correct themselves. Think I'll stay close to home for a bit and see.



Thank's alot and I'll let you know.
 
turbo torque said:
I could'nt get any codes. very quickly & carfully 3 times then leaving on. nothing



That does not work to read codes on a 98. 5, started with 2000 or 2001's. My 2001. 5 does it.



SNOKING
 
I did have Check Engine Lite on, and a high idle (1100 rpm)



That sounds familiar to me. The high idle , that is.

The only thing that can make idle an 98. 5 @ 1100 is a bad ground on the APPS.

I'd check all the wires from tha APPS to the ECM. The ground is BK/LB on pin 1 on the APPS and pin 11 on the ECM. BTW, the Oil pressure, APPS, ECT,IAT,WIF sensors are all tied into pin 11 on the ECM.

No ground to the APPS = No throttle and low idle @ 1100.



Marco
 
My check engine light has only come on several times and not for this. The ground to the APPS meassures 0. 300 ohms so this seems good to me and the extra ground that the one cryslurrr put didn't help the bucking engine and low power at all. ????? :confused:
 
If you can't find anything wrong with the wire(s). I'd not waste too much time with it. Just tap the APPS ground wire and run it to the battery...

Voilà... . ;)



Marco
 
I"ve done all kind of searches on the APPS & that does sound like it could be my problem. Not to appear stupid, could someone tell me where it is? From what I gather its under the plastic cover behind the linkage on the vp44. Thanks
 
Yes, you are correct.



Also ck. the ground point (if yours has it and I'm not by the FSM's) on the inner fender below and in front of the cruise servo and the battery bracket (a 10mm socket would fit the stud for the ground). Look directly below and down by the ds neg. battery terminal.



I have a 2001 (manual trans) here now that I soldered on for about 4hrs. in repair of a squirrel making a nest in the area we are discussing. The owner baited a rat trap and got the rascal! We were about to ask the police to turn their heads while we has a squirrel hunt!



Anyhow good luck,



Andy
 
Apps

The APPS is bolted to the side of #1 cyl on the drivers side and it is under the black plastic cover has three screws holding it there. To test I unbolted the 3 blots on the top and (g e ntly) turned it over and measured the pins. What year is yours??? Cummins Bulletin # 366648_ ( this number should be 1 more than the year. ) should be able to reread the threads so not to be able to miss something.
 
OK, Think I got it! Six pin connector? I hope. It was tight and clean. I used contact cleaner and blew it out good , then applied a good amount of dielectric grease. Everything seems fine now. (only 20 mi. ) If it acts up again I'll disconnect batterys and recalibrate it



TDR is such a wonderful site, what a wealth of knowledge, and great folks. I would have never found this with-out you guy's help. Thank's much, Bill.
 
Well, it did the same thing this mourning 5 miles from home,right around 1600-1700 rpm with very light acceleration. (surging) I unhooked batteries for 1 hour,w/key-on, then key- off to hook up batt. Then key on peddle down slow then up slow then key-off. (recalibrate APPS). Fired up and went for a 15 mi. ride with no surging at 1600 to 1700 rpm. But I'm not convinced. What bothers me, When it was surging @ 1700 rpm this a. m. I put cruse on and it didnt help. Cruse seemed to have a longer range of in and out, and agressive. But the comp is still on.



Maybe a speed sensor??? Any ideas?
 
there is a d/c s/b on this problem. it can be caused by electrical noise causing the torque converter to lock and unlock. dtt makes a filter to cure this . cost about 40. 00 i will go to the s/b and see if i can find it . hope this helps.
 
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