Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Vp44 Install - How Easy/difficult?

[RRFinch]

I am getting a 216 code. Research on the forum pretty clearly indicates it will be soon time for a new pump. Industrial Injections seems like a good place to buy one.

Although I am a pretty fair mechanic, I have no experience doing a VP44.

How easy/hard a job is it?

What tricks are known by those that have done this job?

What special tools are needed, if any?

Are their any "watch-outs" (gotchas) in doing this replacement?



Rob

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I have a decent garage/work area, and lots of good tools, and the job probably took me over half a day because I piddled around with extra cleaning in areas otherwise impossible to get to - I like to keep the engine and underhood as spotless as possible...



The part that probably caused me the greatest puzzlement, was getting that dern control cable/plug loose and disconnected - talk about a Chinese puzzle for the inexperienced! :-laf



BUT, got it after a good 5 minutes of pushing, pulling and head scratching.



My best advice is to early on totally remove that dern rear engine pulling fixture/loop off the intake manifold - save it just in case, but LEAVE it off the truck for easier access to the injector lines and fittings - you'll see what I mean when you start working back there. I used thick washers to make up for the thickness of the fixture, and used the same original bolts to properly hold down the manifold top plate.



I also removed the driver side battery for good unobstructed access to the VP-44 area. There are a couple of excellent photo articles on doing the swap - I used one of those for a general guide, and it was a great help - someone will undoubtedly post a pointer here for you.



Be sure, after the install, to leave all the lines loose at the injectors, then crank the engine over until you get fuel flow at each injector, then tighten them down. Once the engine fires up, recheck each line for leakage, and tighten more as needed - here's where you'll be glad you left off that engine hoisting fixture! :-laf



Good luck!

 

[Bob4x4]

I have a decent garage/work area, and lots of good tools, and the job probably took me over half a day because I piddled around with extra cleaning in areas otherwise impossible to get to - I like to keep the engine and underhood as spotless as possible...



The part that probably caused me the greatest puzzlement, was getting that dern control cable/plug loose and disconnected - talk about a Chinese puzzle for the inexperienced! :-laf



BUT, got it after a good 5 minutes of pushing, pulling and head scratching.



My best advice is to early on totally remove that dern rear engine pulling fixture/loop off the intake manifold - save it just in case, but LEAVE it off the truck for easier access to the injector lines and fittings - you'll see what I mean when you start working back there. I used thick washers to make up for the thickness of the fixture, and used the same original bolts to properly hold down the manifold top plate.



I also removed the driver side battery for good unobstructed access to the VP-44 area. There are a couple of excellent photo articles on doing the swap - I used one of those for a general guide, and it was a great help - someone will undoubtedly post a pointer here for you.



Be sure, after the install, to leave all the lines loose at the injectors, then crank the engine over until you get fuel flow at each injector, then tighten them down. Once the engine fires up, recheck each line for leakage, and tighten more as needed - here's where you'll be glad you left off that engine hoisting fixture! :-laf



Good luck!

A little edit on your post Gary... ..... tighten#2 line or you will have to pull the intake off to secure it



Bob

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

A little edit on your post Gary... ..... tighten#2 line or you will have to pull the intake off to secure it



Bob

HMMMmm - Alzheimer's DOES get to my memory sometimes - but I'm pretty sure the wrench I used got to ALL the lines with all the hardware in place - and a good thing too, since I had several leakers... :-laf



(EDIT!)



Give the man a cigar - Bob's absolutelycorrect, even my slim-jim 19mm wrench will NOT effectively reach #2 - better do the crank/watch for leaks test BEFORE reattaching the intake horn - as I *did* do, then cinch them down. Then, on the recheck after reinstalling the intake horn and a few test drives, I still did have a few stubborn leakers - just lucky #2 wasn't one of them!



Thanks for the heads-up Bob!

 

[BradyWilliams]

We have and sell pullers to pull the gear from the drive shaft. This you will need if you don't already have one. 35. 00 And the advise here is pretty good so I wiil leave that alone. Thanks, Brady

 

[AHire]

You dont have to remove the back two injector lines. the back three lines can be GENTLY swayed enough to get the old pump out and the new one in.

I also tightened all the injector lines and broke them loose one at a time. She fired after the third one, run kinda rough for about 30 sec them purred like a kitten.



Bthw it only took me 2 hr to do and it was my first.

 

[RRFinch]

Thnks to all for your replies and advice. With your advice, and reading the service manual, I am emboldened to do the job. I shall file a report on my success... HAH.



Rob KK7WV

 

[Davidson]

Rob, I changed my VP out today. It went real well by following Bob Wagners instructions. The only tool that I had to go buy was a T50 Torx bit for the bracket on the back of the pump. Good Luck!