2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Vulcan Draw Straw Install

[fairmont]

Preparing to upgrade to the mechanical fuel sender as rweis describes here. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/2nd-generation-ram-forum-no-engine-transmission-discussions/179541-fuel-tank-float-how-many-us-had-change-because-deteriorated.html I now have the parts in hand. As far as the Draw Straw goes, the kit comes with an 18" length of 5/16" fuel line for the return from the VP-44 into the thak. From what I can see with the tank still in place, the return line is steel along the frame and then somewhere beside the tank transitions into the flex plastic line that goes into the factory quick lock connector to dump into the top of the fuel module. The Vulcan kit comes with a 5/16" pushlock to 1/4" NPT fitting, should I have any other fittings on hand when I drop the tank? Or will the steel line just have a flare on the end that the hose will slip over and be secured with a hose clamp? (a hose clamp was also included in the kit) I already have 1/2" lines in place for the feed going to the AirDog, so that part is taken care of.

 

[Wiredawg]

Everything came w/ my Vulcan Draw Straw and didn't need anything else. I hope this answers you question.



Wiredawg1

 

[rweis]

While you are under there do me and you a BIG favor when you get the tank part done.



Go up toward the front of the truck (right by the rear of the engine on the frame on the drivers side) where the steel return line is connected to a flexible line that goes up to the engine T. The line is covered with a about 1" loose rubber sleeve. Slide the loose rubber sleeve toward the engine and see where the nylon line is crimped INSIDE the 3/16 steel fuel return line that goes back to the tank.



The nylon line is 1/32 wall thickness (seems to be somewhat like the type of structure like the water line is on the back of your refridgerator, I am sure can handle higher temps though). The nylon line has 2 walls inside the 3/16 steel line, so 3/16 - (1/32 + 1/32) = 2/16 ID of the nylon line. I actually measured less than 2/16 ID when I changed mine.



Remember this is the return of the COOLING fuel and 70% of the fuel that goes through the VP44 is cooling fuel and comes out the VP44 bypass valve and goes through that 2/16 ID line.



The VP44 can access 45 gph in theory. That means 31. 5 gph has to go through a 2/16 ID nylon line. Hummmmmmmmmmmm, can it? at 14 psi?



Everyone wants to feed the VP44 with TONS of fuel, but give no thought as to getting the fuel out of the VP44 and back to the tank.



Soap box done, thanks for the rant.



I took the opportunity because you are taking the initiative of correcting the problem at the tank end and there is one more fairly serious problem outlined above no one seems to address.



Now the DrawStraw was one of the BEST things I did for my fuel system. To be sure you will be able to start her up I would have a few small hose clamps and some spare fuel tubing in case I had to "create" a fitting I did not know I needed.



IF you need to "chat" about what you are seeing and it does not look right or not sure about ???, I would be more than happy to talk about it, I may not know what it is, but I bet we can figuer it out, or I can jump on TDR and see what someone else thinks it is. Call me and I will call you right back (my . 05).



Bob Weis

cell 863-206-3464

 

[Eric Lee]

Bob - Thanks for your writeup - I am planning on this upgrade and you really helped out with identification of the return line issue. I will tackle that at the same time. I need to do a little research about the R&R for the tank. I read some people prop up the bed insteadf?



-Eric

 

[rweis]

Some prop up the bed, I have a 5er hitch bolted in so I dropped the tank. The first drop is a ***** because of the T on the tank straps. Plan on grinding about 1/8" off each side of the T (front strap & back strap) so it slips back into the frame bracket MUCH better. Getting it off took me an hour each. Then a "Little Touch Up with the grinder" and 10 seconds to get it to lock into the bracket upon reinstall.



The modification is working perfectly.



Vulcan - measure CAREFULLY. The Vulcan was an excellant mod.



Probably replace most of the fuel line with rubber while you are under there.



Bob Weis



note: Remember I put the gauge in facing the wrong way first? I found a '02 tank and am having it shipped. I am going to mount the gauge one more time correctly the first time in the new tank.



I wrote everything I could think of while doing and what I was seeing and what I was thinking when I did the machanical sender (the first time). It turned out to be 14 pages of text "this is what I did". When I do the "new" tank I will take lots of pics and include those and then send it to Steve St. Laurant so his technical writers can chop on it and eventually hope to post it permanently in the archives so we have a really well documented "how to do it" permanent fix.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I modified my draw straw to use the stock antisiphon piece so I wouldn't have an issue should I run my tank way down before filling up. I have run it way down to about 1. 5 gallons left and it didn't miss a beat. I took some pics of my Vulcan draw straw install, will post them tomorrow since they're on my work PC.

When I screwed the fittings into the aluminum bulkhead block I had trouble with the threads sealing all the way around. Either use a good amount of teflon tape or better yet a liquid thread sealant compatible with diesel & biofuels. IMO the holes into the head should have been drilled square with the centerline instead of offset, doesn't work the best with the tapered pipe thread. It wouldn't hurt anything for the two fittings to be angled away from each other a little, or drill the return 90 degrees from the supply fitting then use a 90-deg fitting to match the angle of the supply fitting.

Vaughn

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Pics



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[ERuhl]

Plan on grinding about 1/8" off each side of the T (front strap & back strap) so it slips back into the frame bracket MUCH better. Getting it off took me an hour each. Then a "Little Touch Up with the grinder" and 10 seconds to get it to lock into the bracket upon reinstall.

Just wanted to chime in on this. Perhaps there was a design change at some point because I haven't modified mine and I've never had any difficulties removing/installing the straps. I just tilt the strap a little, line it up with the slot, and it comes right out. I've had mine in and out a few times now to install and then uninstall the draw straw. FWIW.

 

[Leaky88]

ERuhl,
Hi, I am thinking of doing the upgrade to a Vulcan 1/2 Draw Straw.
I noticed that you UNINSTALLED your Draw Straw and was wondering why?
I am still on the fence about doing it, and would appreciate any lessons learned.

Thanks.
Leaky

 

[Road Dog]

This is a ten year old thread. You might not get an answer.