Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) wait to start light

[dieseldriver]

I noticed my truck has trouble starting in the morning since i purchased it. The first time i noticed it in the morning was when it was 38degrees out and the 2nd time was this morning and it was 25 degrees out. The wait to start light stays on for 10 - 15 seconds before it goes off, is this normal? It took 4 times to start it this morning and i'm told it should not have to plug it in with the temps. we have been having.

this problem must be linked to being in the cold outside as it does not happen when it sits in my cold garage.



I do have the bad lift pump code that shows up just as an FYI but it has had this since i bought it but not sure if that could be the cause.





-Is 10-15 seconds normal for light to go out?



-could my heater or whatever its called not be getting hot enough?



-does keeping it plugged in at night draw much energy, just concerned about the energy bill?



thanks

 

[JR]

10 to 15 seconds sounds about right at 25 degrees. Which code are you referring to "bad lift pump"? I would start there. Also check for any wet fuel lines even a very slight leak will cause hard starts. Grid heaters rarely fail so I would cover the lift pump issue first, if your having problems with it your going to roast your injection pump and then your talking big $$$. A fuel pressure gauge to monitor lift pump pressure is a must also.

 

[dieseldriver]

the code i'm getting is this: P0230 Transfer Pump (Lift Pump)

The mechanic says he tested the fuel pressure and its is good. Is it a possibility the lift pump could be still working properly even though it displays the code?

 

[HBarlow]

10 to 15 seconds of wait to start is normal. The important question should be is the grid heater cycling on and it is very likely it is. They don't fail often. The temps you mentioned are not even cold. A Cummins engine will routinely start at well below 0° without being plugged in. I had to start my old one once when it was -20°. It struggled but fired off and ran.

If your fuel transfer pump is not pumping sufficiently you will soon have a destroyed VP-44 injection pump. It is pricey and considered quite vulnerable to inadequate fuel supply.

 

[JR]

You really should pick up on a gauge and install it so you can see what your fuel pressure is going down the road. Testing fuel pressure at idle or when revving the engine with no load on it isnt very indicative of a good pump. It could be pulling down under higher loads. Regardless, a gauge is something you really should have to protect your vp if you plan on keeping your truck.
Going back to the hard starts I would check for any damp lines even a very small leak will allow the fuel to siphon back and cause hard starts once the truck sits over night.

 

[RonaldLarson]

Could well be that the fuel heater in the filter housing is not operating.

 

[dieseldriver]

were can i find the fuel heater at?

Could well be that the fuel heater in the filter housing is not operating.

 

[dieseldriver]

i noticed the wire covers that go the the heater grid look like they melted a little and the the terminals look rusted. Perhaps i should sand the connections down and reconnect them and this will allow the heater to work better. Kinda like battery terminals that are bad.

 

[JR]

At the temps you mentioned in your first post, a fuel heater shouldnt even be necessary. When temps get down well below freezing for sustained periods is when it becomes necessary. Did you by chance check all your fuel lines for dampness/leaks? How about if you plug your truck inat night or if the truck is warmed up does it start right away? If it does start you may have grid heater issues of some kind. Check your grid heater relays to make sure youve got power coming in to them. Should also have power coming out when the truck has been sitting and is cold. Your relays are mounted on the drivers side fender well under the hood.

Edit: just read your last post, definitely disconnect your batteries and clean all connections between battery to relays and relays to grid heater if they are looking corroded.

 

[VolsFan]

How are the batteries? How many cold cranking amps are they rated? I know on my old truck, I got Napa legends and I thik they were around 650 range CCA and that thing would have a rough time cranking in cold temps. On my 01, it has big interstates, and it fires up like nothing, even when I have it outside and w/ the windchill below zero. If its working properly, you dont need to plug a cummins in, thats only for the v8s

 

[dieseldriver]

How are the batteries? How many cold cranking amps are they rated? I know on my old truck, I got Napa legends and I thik they were around 650 range CCA and that thing would have a rough time cranking in cold temps. On my 01, it has big interstates, and it fires up like nothing, even when I have it outside and w/ the windchill below zero. If its working properly, you dont need to plug a cummins in, thats only for the v8s

Batteries are fine i'm guessing since the engine turns over fast even in the cold

 

[RonaldLarson]

The fuel heatyer is inside the fuel filter housing. It is contolled by a relay inside the fuse/breaker box on the driver side inner fender.

 

[dieseldriver]

At the temps you mentioned in your first post, a fuel heater shouldnt even be necessary. When temps get down well below freezing for sustained periods is when it becomes necessary. Did you by chance check all your fuel lines for dampness/leaks? How about if you plug your truck inat night or if the truck is warmed up does it start right away? If it does start you may have grid heater issues of some kind. Check your grid heater relays to make sure youve got power coming in to them. Should also have power coming out when the truck has been sitting and is cold. Your relays are mounted on the drivers side fender well under the hood.

I have not checked all the fuel lines for leaks yet but going to do that tomorrow. If the truck is plugged in or the truck is warm it fires right up.
What is the best way to check my relays to make sure i got power coming out?

 

[hcole]

If it were me, I'd want to make SURE that the grid heaters,relays, fuses, and connections for them were all OK. You can do that procuring a DC clamp on ammeter from an electrotech. You can find one from someone who does control work in industrial environments. THAT will tell you that ALL systems in the cold start system is OK. I think they should draw in the 70- 100 amp range, but not sure.