Walker AirSep

[Archive]

I am thinking of purchasing the Walker AirSep, so I called them today. Found out they currently have a rebate till the end of the month. Anybody interested might want to contact them before the end of August.

BTW, any TDR members have one of these, and if so what do you think? I like the idea, but a little (OK, a lot) more money involved over some of the hommade breather relocations discussed on this board. The AirSep also needs servicing every 75K, which sounds like costs about $100. I will know more after I get my mail from them.

Shelby

------------------
Ordered 2001 2500 QC LB 4WD, ETH, DEE, 3. 54 gears, Laramie SLT, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Travel Convenience Group, Power Driver Seat, Alarm System, Remote Keyless Entry, Fog Lamps, Cab Clearance Lamps, HD Transfer Case, Bright White with an Agate Interior.

E-Brake goes on @ delivery time, Bed comes off and will be replaced by a custom aluminum work body / flat bed. Ordered on 03-28-00

 

[Archive]

What is the cost of this Walker whatever device, you can post the price if you've read the latest on this website from one of the moderators. Might be the head honco himself, but not quite sure. The way I read it, you can tell me the price if we're just chatting back and forth like this. Maybe it's a fine line and if I'm over the line, let me know. Once again, what is the price of this Walker gizmo?

 

[Archive]

A friend of mine with a 2000 ISB put in the Walker AirSep a couple of months ago and he said installation was a "***** and a half". It is by no means an easy install, and he is a Detroit Diesel mechanic. He said to ask Walker if they rectified the problem with the oil drain tube that goes into the block. His did not fit right and felt like the tube was going to break. Also the air inlet hose had a major kink in it, installing as per Walker's instructions and had to be modified with 4 inch elbows. He said if you are running the RE0880 filter, then no problem, but with the stock air box like he has, he saw a huge air restriction until he modified the hose. Parts are top quality, but the way they had it a couple of months ago made the installation a major project. Plan for more than an afternoon. He paid $325 for his.

 

[Archive]

I found some clear plastic tubing the same size as the stock breater tube at the hardware store. I got about six feet of it and ran inside the left frame rail almost to the rear wheel. Then just removed the stock tube and clamped the new one to the engine. No mess. No smell. No service necessary. Cheap! What more can you want?

------------------
Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Archive]

I'm with you Joe. I did the same thing with 3/4" heater hose. I used a connector to adapt to the existing hose so that I could retain the nice tight bends. A ran the hose midway back and pointed toward the ground. The best thing about it is that there is no service ever required with this setup.

------------------
David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, 5. 9L HO Cummins Diesel (ETH), 6-Speed HD Manual (DEE), SLT+, 3. 55 Anti-Spin Axle, Camper Special Group, Trailer Tow Group, Leather, Sliding Rear Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine oil temp. ), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, AND functional Halo light!
"Diesel, it's not just for breakfast!"

[This message has been edited by dresslered (edited 08-09-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

I installed one about three weeks ago. I couldn't stand the smell from the breather hose. Mine was $425, minus a $75 rebate, which will be posted to my credit card once Walker logs in their "postcard".

The install was mostly easy. The components are top notch - Airquip hose on the turbo oil supply pressure side, painted breather transfer tube, check valve and airsep filter body, etc. The kit included a new Y fitting for the turbo return line, second check valve and all clamps.

There are two difficult parts to the install. First, the new pipe at the turbo oil return line, which changes from a bent pipe to a bent Y pipe. This piece has an 'O' ring fitting at the base where it presses into the Cummins block. Seating the fitting took some doing. The instructions said to remove by rotating and gently pulling, but I had to rotate mine with pliers and pry out with a screwdriver (gently!). Reinstallation of the new fitting was accomplished with my wife hammering a long board with a mallet. I had the long board against plyers I used to lightly grip a flange at the base of the new tube (Very technical!). That worked fine, but unless you have a special tool to push the fitting in, two people are necessary.

The second difficult part was to modify and install the air inlet hose. There is not enough clearance between the end of the airsep and the alternator to keep the hose in stock condition. The instructions called for removing 1/2" off of the end of the hose. Once installed, it was difficult to "convince" back into place. I have found, though, that after you drive it once, the heat from the engine helps soften and move the hose. Mine does not contact my alternator, and there is no restriction in the line.

In the end, I like the Airsep for what it does. It has a 75,000 mile service interval. I belive this involves changing out the filter box, which should be easy. The end product fit and finish is of very good quality. No more smell, no oil on the engine, lower emissions (if you care)and virtually no maintenance. I told Walker engineering that if they'd like to supply a redesigned intake hose, I'd buy one. I'm surprised DC doesn't supply vehicles with a built-in system. Guess it'd cost a couple dollars more per unit or something.

Sorry for the length, but that's my $. 02.
-Adam

[This message has been edited by Stockman (edited 08-09-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

David,

I chose the clear tubing so I could check it easy for plugging up with junk or whatever. No sign of that so far. In fact, I don't even see any oil accumulation. I was going to use an adapter but when I pulled on the stock tube it just came off. So I just used a hose clamp and installed the new tube where the old one was. Really easy. The tube has no sharp bends and is out of the way for any work I need to do on the truck. $300+ for a gadget that has to be maintained and is in the way to do this when I spent less than $5 for a no maintenance tube. Doesn't make sense to me.

 

[Archive]

Agree with you again, Joe. My only concern would be that if the clear tubing can resist the heat from the lower part of the engine-some of the clear stuff has a fairly low-melting point. Price is definitely right (with my adapter, I'm in it for about 12 bucks), besides I figure that if the Cummins spit the oil out in the first place, it doesn't want it back.

------------------
David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, 5. 9L HO Cummins Diesel (ETH), 6-Speed HD Manual (DEE), SLT+, 3. 55 Anti-Spin Axle, Camper Special Group, Trailer Tow Group, Leather, Sliding Rear Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine oil temp. ), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, AND functional Halo light!
"Diesel, it's not just for breakfast!"

 

[Archive]

David,

Yeah, I kinda wondered about that. I decided to give it a try to see what would happen. So far, so good. Probably would melt if it was on the exhaust side. My hose was kind of curly when I got it since it was the last piece on the roll. I put a piece of 1/2" cpvc pipe in it and left it out in the sun for a few days to straighten it out. That worked. I like cheap solutions that work. Especially if the cheap solution does a better job than the expensive. There is another thread about a cheap substitute for a Brite Box. If you really tried you might manage to spend as much as $15 to do the Brite Box job.

 

[Archive]

Has anyone taken the vent hose and using a one way check valve plumbed it into the exhaust system? I have this set up on my race car and it seems to work good at Hi RPM. We called these puke tubes.

------------------
Dee'sel
97 2500 Club 4X4 3. 54, Forrest Green/Driftwood, LSD 5 speed, K&N Air filter RE0880 & Psychotty, TST #11 all the way forward, #12 for winter, AFC spring kit, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, TST EGT gauge & TST 0-60 boost gauge in A Pillar, Hypo clutch ass. , Cat-be-gone, 4" Dynomax Bullet muffler, Crome 4" turn down, AmsOil ser 2000 75W-90 in Trans, Geno's trans filter kit, AmsOil ATF In Transfer case, AmsOil 15W-40 Oil W/ Bypass system, AmsOil Ser 2000 75W-90 in front & Rear ends, Lund Winter front, Leer Cab Level Shell Driftwood , 235/85R16 Goodyears, Dyno'd 342 HP *NRA/USPSA member and proud of it*

 

[Archive]

Drawson-
Believe it or not I was contemplating this very system, although I had never heard of it actually being used. After I dangled the little heater hose, it seems to work so well that I never have considered anything else since. The hose does blow out some oily vapors at times but so far I have never seen it drip on the driveway nor has it started mucking up the underneath of the truck. I'm going to stick with "simple is better. "

------------------
David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, 5. 9L HO Cummins Diesel (ETH), 6-Speed HD Manual (DEE), SLT+, 3. 55 Anti-Spin Axle, Camper Special Group, Trailer Tow Group, Leather, Sliding Rear Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine oil temp. ), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, AND functional Halo light!
"Diesel, it's not just for breakfast!"

 

[Archive]

Has anyone thought about putting a filter like K&N on the end of the hose to keep the leaks down. I use a smaller one on the HAWG and all I do is wash it out every other oil change.

------------------
99 2500 Quadcab 4x4, PE Box, 275's, E-Brake, 4" Exh and 33x12. 50 BFG's

 

[Archive]

Spyke,

If you use a long hose there is NO leak to need a filter for. If there is any at all the way I have mine it will be inside the frame rail and tearing down the highway at 70MPH+ will blow it out on the rear wheel tread. So far, I have had no sign of any oil. It used to keep the front U-joint lubed and rust proof the bottom of the cab a bit. It was never bad enuff to drip on the garage floor but it was a mess.

 

[Archive]

Dresslered, Mr. gasket make a kit for doing this it comes with two check valves the pipe that goes in the exhaust and hose. I think I'm going to go for it after i get home from vacation. I let you know how it turns out.

 

[Archive]

Keep us all posted on the Puke Tube!

------------------
David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, 5. 9L HO Cummins Diesel (ETH), 6-Speed HD Manual (DEE), SLT+, 3. 55 Anti-Spin Axle, Camper Special Group, Trailer Tow Group, Leather, Sliding Rear Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine oil temp. ), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, AND functional Halo light!
"Diesel, it's not just for breakfast!"