Want to disable heating grid with oil pressure

[roadhawg]

I was wandering where the posible places to screw in a cheap sending unit that opens on pressure rise to open the grounded control circuit for the heating grid solinoids.

I allready have a tempature senser in the hole next to the turbo oil line, so i was hoping to find another spot.

I have seen the oil pressure sending unit right behind the power steering pump.

Is there another place to pull A plug and adapt for A senser?



Eric

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

I suppose anything is possible. You'd need to run a relay to interrupt the circuit but I really need to wonder why you would.....



What's the thinking on this one... . ???



bob.

 

[paccool]

I was wondering "why" myself. This will lead to longer warmup times and increased smoke during those times.

 

[roadhawg]

I live in this valley where it rarely freezes, in fact 42 degrees is about the lowest temp we see.

I seem to go through a battery every 2 years so I was hoping to reduce the wear and tear on the charging system.



I have a kicker 600. 4 and a 400. 2 amp. they run constantly not at full power but some draw, also the aircraft landing lights, they draw 21 amps each when I turn them on. Also the warn winch rarely used but it can draw more current than the alternator can put out .

The thing I see most often is the heating grid cycling even when its not very cold outside



I agree that we need heat to get all the cylinders fireing but turning on the key and letting the grid cycle once should be enough here.



Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.



Eric

 

[JLEONARD]

Eric,

Good idea and when you find a system that works I would be interested in the details... I think that would be a good modification.

I have a Cummins powered boat... the Dual grid heaters alternate until the manifold comes up to temp... . a real heavy draw on the system that is not needed... however at least this system is set up to cut out when engine rpms get above 900.

But what I do is completely disconnect the system by pulling out one plug. I really don't boat in temps below 50 F or so, so I don't need the heaters to start. The heaters are supposed to keep the startup smoke down, but I don't have any to speak of hence the system is disconnected.



Oh, you could T into the feed for the turbo and put a pressure switch in there... . or use a timer to cut it out after say 10 seconds?

Just a couple of thoughts.

Jay

 

[paccool]

What about a manual switch in the line controlling the relays? That would give you the ability to turn off if there is a lot of other draws on the system or leaving on on really cold mornings. Just a thought.



Stan

 

[JLEONARD]

Stan,

That would work, but an automatic system would be nicer IMO.

 

[Philip]

The block fitting is 1/8" pipe thread. Get a short nipple and a T fitting. Screw it in and put your other switch into the other side of the T.



I would recommend a steam fitting also. This will be double thickness wall. It will take a lot longer for vibration to crack it.

 

[Old Smoky]

The second gen guys have discussed this before. I'm not sure what they came up with though. Might have to search another forum for more ideas.



Mike

 

[Bigramguy]

You could use a relay,or relays,controlled by an oil pressure switch. The relays would splice into the grid heater relay control circuit,to cut them out when the engine starts.



It is a very good idea,really helps save the batteries and charging system,and unless it's really cold,it doesn't affect the way it runs or warms up at all. Add a manual switch to bypass or turn off the relays and return the system to original operation when it's really cold out.



I know on the newer 2nd gens,it will set codes if you do this,as it sees an open circuit in the grid heater relay circuits. You could also use a similar design using oil pressure,but have a relay that switches the Intake air temp sensor to a "warm" value. Using a resistor you should be able to make it work.

 

[roadhawg]

Wow! lots of information here, thanks for the replies.



I always feel the simpler the system the better. I want to look at the wiring diagram to see if something jumps out at me there.

Eric

 

[Crash_AF]

Originally posted by Philip

The block fitting is 1/8" pipe thread. Get a short nipple and a T fitting. Screw it in and put your other switch into the other side of the T.

Actually, this is what Onan does to have the pressure sender for the gauge and the pressure switch for the low pressure warning/shutdown.



IIRC and I'll check at work tomorrow, on the Gensets, there is a 1/8" NPT plug halfway down the block on the pump side, but it might be the same one that is behind the P/S pump on the Dodge since there is no pump there on the Gensets.



Later,

Joe