Warning Chime Disconnect...How!

[Archive]

If this has been previously posted could someone post the link.

Want to disconnect the warning chime on 99 and 2K work trucks. Older 96's could just pull buzzer assembly.

Is there an easly fix to this?

jjw
ND

 

[Archive]

Sorry,I'm a'97 buzzer puller!

 

[Archive]

I pulled out the buzzer button on the drivers side and cut the wire and put a little black tape on it and no more buzzer.

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99, 4x4, slt, 3500,5spd,
3. 54 gears, black,hoswel bale bed, blue box, Pac-
Brake, sraightpipe,K&N, silencer ring removed, 5 star aluminum wheels, brushguard,blackouts, eclipse stereo, sound stream 10,matrix blue headlight bulbs, blazer blue neon fog lights, KC Daylighters, 29ltd Cobra CB, Dodge splash guards, Lund Cold Fronts

-- email address removed --


"Use to be Strokin' now I'm Cummin'

 

[Archive]

JJ, just take the plastic shrouds off the steering column. You'll see a little black two wire harness that connects to the ignition. Unhook the connector. This will keep the buzzer from going on when the key is in acc or you have the door open, but it will still sound if you have left your lights on or low fuel, etc.

 

[Archive]

It looks like Phil and I did the same thing.
I pulled out the door jamb swith and there
were three wires going into it: brown,white and black... I cut the pin for the brown wire.
Interior lights come on with no chime, but the "headlights on" chime doesn't(but that's how I like it).

-Mike

 

[Archive]

Arcticat, this does not look like it will work on my '98. 5, as the two black wires common to the black connector which is connected just above the ignition switch, is the light for the ignition switch illumination ring. Any comments? I assume something is different as I fail to see how disconnecting the ignition switch light would eliminate the chime.

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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4, (BLACK) SLT Sport, ISB, LWB, 3. 54 LSD, A/T, Glasstite Vision II canopy, Line-X bed liner, 285/75R16 BFG A/Ts on 16x8 M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares, front and rear NW Custom stainless steel/rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover and trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Mopar tow hooks, Jordan Research Ultima 2020 trailer brake controller, VDO Vision gauges, PIAA Dual Sport 900 auxiliary lights and Super White bulbs, BD exhaust brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, Bosch 275 hp. injectors, VA CPC, DD Boost Module, Banks Stinger wastegate actuator, "Scotty Air System", BLACK '00 valve cover, Hitco/Geno's exhaust blanket, Femco/Geno's EZ Drain oil pan plug, Banks Stinger 4" dia. stainless steel exhaust system, BD ______ TC and valve body, BD modified transmission front pump and PressureLoc, plus many other trick modifications

Coming Atractions: '00 Sport headlights and '00 Sport grille (I'll squeeze it in somehow)

'00 Polaris 6x6

 

[Archive]

My bad, John. I neglected to mention that there are two sets of black wires - one set for the light, and another set for the key-in-ignition switch sense. The latter is on the bottom of the cylinder. It has a little plug in - just pull it out.

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'00 2500 reg cab LB 4x4, 5spd, LSD, Van Aaken, 275 injectors, regulator boost fooler w/elbow, combo boost/egt guage, line-x, alumasport diamond toolbox, vernier idle controler, cold front, Warn front receiver, ventvisors and stepguards by autoventshade, OEM foglights, Super H headlight bulbs, my own "brite box", hide-a-hook, loadsaver, G-tech, name a factory option - I don't have it!

 

[Archive]

Arcticat, when I was into the steering column the first time (after removing the upper and lower shrouds), I looked for a second black plug containing two black wires. As I remember, the only other plug I saw, contained a minimum of six (more like nine) wires which was located on the bottom of the column. I even pulled the knee bolster thinking the plug might have been down line. Have I overlooked something? #ad
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[Archive]

Hmmmm... It would appear that the wiring was changed in '99. The connector on my truck is 180 degrees from the ignition light, right at the cylinder. If your's isn't there, they must have changed the wiring. I had always thought that the wiring was changed in the 98. 5's along with the interiour and the engine. Anyways, you can probably still do it, just look in your service manual for the location of the "key-in-ignition switch sense". Or you could cut the door jamb switch like Phil did. I opted not to do it that way only cause I have a habit of leaving the headlights on and I wanted the chime to warn me when I did.

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'00 2500 reg cab LB 4x4, 5spd, LSD, Van Aaken, 275 injectors, regulator boost fooler w/elbow, combo boost/egt guage, line-x, alumasport diamond toolbox, vernier idle controler, cold front, Warn front receiver, ventvisors and stepguards by autoventshade, OEM foglights, Super H headlight bulbs, my own "brite box", hide-a-hook, loadsaver, G-tech, name a factory option - I don't have it!

 

[Archive]

If you want to disconnect the switch so that you can run the radio with the door open, all you have to do is turn the key to acc with the door closed then open it or press the button with your finger and release. It will stop the chime. They interior light will shut off after a certain amount of time.

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98. 5 3500 QC 4x4
Driftwood/ Grey Int.
5 spd, 3. 54
PowerMax2, Dual Designs
Ranchhand bumbers, headache rack and toolbox
custom 4" chrome sidepipes are gone (too loud), dual 3" with 5" tips back on, "Scotty Air System", Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, Autometer Gauges, Cobra CB, Sony CD player

 

[Archive]

Arcticat, you are the man! Finally I have emerged victorious! Our assumption that the '98. 5 is different than the '99 to present is correct. There is a four wire connector beneath the ignition switch containing the following wire colors: light blue, tan, pink and yellow w. red tracer. After much investigation in the '98 DC Service Manual as well as scrutinizing the steering column wiring, I cut the LIGHT BLUE wire down line where there is an exposed area, seen after the removal of the knee bolster, on the bottom side of the steering column. After cutting the wire and performing various tests I bent back 1/4" of each exposed end, applying heat shrink tubing for protection.

This modification eliminates the chime when the key is in the ignition (off position) and does not affect the alarm system in any way. The chime remains active as it pertains to the Headlight On warning. #ad
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Thank you Arcticat for your help! The key phrase, "Key-in ignition switch sense" is what put me right to the correct area within the Service Manual. Thanks again for making my day! ALL #ad
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[Archive]

Just a followup to this. The light blue wire is the smaller (22 - 26 gauge) one. On a 99 there was the four wires connect just below the key with one being light blue that kills the key-in chime. On a newer 2000/2001 their was just two wires instead of four. One was again light blue. Unpugged this connector seemed to kill the chime. Again these wires are very small. If you just pull the knee bolster off you can easily find the wire.

jjw
ND

 

[Archive]

Crazy DC wiring... Grrrr... #ad


This gets involved, so pay close attention...

Well, on my 98. 5 will ALL of the same options as my 2001, the halo light on the ignition switch would light up. On my 2001, it does not light up, despite the bulb being there. I checked the bulb and it's OK. So off to my trusty 1998 and 2001 service manuals. The connection in question is the "Ignition Switch C2" plug. Here's the differences between 1998. 5 and 2001:

1998:

Pin 1: G75 22TN Left door ajar switch sense
Pin 2: G26 22LB Key in ignition switch sense
Pin 3: M1 22PK Fused B+
Pin 4: M50 22YL/RD Halo lamp driver

2001:

Pin 1*: G75 22TN Driver door ajar switch sense
Pin 1**: Z3 22BK/OR Ground
Pin 2: G26 22LB
Pin 3: No connection
Pin 4: No connection

*IEM
**CTM

Apparently, if Pin #1's wire is connected to the CTM, it is a ground. If it is connected to the IEM (Integrated ELectronic Module), it is a driver door switch sense. My ETH uses the setup with the BK/OR ground wire in Pin #1.

After I unplugged this connector with the 2 wires, it made a small difference. First thing I noticed was I could lock the doors using the power lock button when the key in the ignition and the engine off. Minor difference, but I like the feature. So basically what I wanted to do was get the halo lamp working, and retain the chime and have it function like my 98. 5 did. I liked being able to have the CD player going and just press the door switch once to cut the chime. So... Back to the service manuals...

My plan was to wire the 2001 to match the 98. 5 and have everything work like I wanted it to. Well, that's not going to happen. While comparing the IEM connector between the 98 and 2001, I noticed the 2001's lacks a critical function in Pin #13. This function is "Key-in lamp driver. " The halo lamp, plain and simple. Why they eliminated it, I do not know. I have not yet tested Pin #13 in the 2001, but that is my next project. Perhaps the 2001's are just not wired for the halo lamp. THe provision for it could be in the IEM, and that's what I am going to find out tonight. I'll post an update. If it does have it, I'm set, and all I have to do is run a couple of wires to get the halo lamp to work. #ad
The chime re-wiring might be a little more tricky, if it is possible at all. The problem is that I want to retain the lock disable feature so I don't lock my keys in the truck! Well, I am out to the garage, watch for an update! #ad


****UPDATE****

Well, I foound out something good! The IEM is identical to the one in the 98. 5. Pin #13 shows 12. 8 volts, like it is supposed to. All I gotta do now is connect a couple of wires, and I will have a halo light! #ad


I am still working on the chime thing... #ad


****UPDATE #2****

Well, it didn't go as planned. The IEM is a little different and doesn't support the halo light. So I connected in tot he dome light circuit, tapping into it at the top of the A-pillar. The wires I connected to are the pink one and the yellow one. I connected these to the halo light pigtail, and it works great! #ad


BOMBED

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Evan A. Beck "NW PUNK"
Prez, NW BOMBers

'01 2500HD 4x2 QC, 139" WB, 6-speed, ETH, SLT... yadda yadda yadda... K&N, 3" "PIPE BOMB", 6-way turn signal conversion, aux. backup lights, Line-X. 2,945 miles and counting!

Check out NW PUNK for more info!


[This message has been edited by Evan A. Beck (edited 05-28-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Can someone tell me exctly how to get the steering coumn shroud off?

I see a torx in the middle on the bottom of the shroud, but I also see two holes on the extreme sides of the shroud (from the bottom). A #2 phillips uo the holes doesn't seem to engage a screw what do I need?

Nelson

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2001 SLT Auto, 4x2, LWB White, camper/towing options, Line-x over-rail liner, Oem black molded running boards, Oem molded rear splash guards, Powervision mirrors, "Painless" wiring, Brolin Bracket (for CB), Black Bug deflector (with eyebrows) Oem CD radio, Dash Carpet, Black louvered tailgate, 5th wheel Hitch. Guages coming real soon. No bombing planned, --well maybe -- 275 hp injectors -- someday.

 

[Archive]

All the screws are Torx... Pop them out, and then you'll need to unsnap the cover halves. . You'll see... #ad


BOMBED

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Evan A. Beck "NW PUNK"
Prez, NW BOMBers
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'01 2500HD 4x2 QC, 139" WB, 6-speed, ETH, SLT... yadda yadda yadda... K&N, 3" "PIPE BOMB", 6-way turn signal conversion, aux. backup lights, Line-X, Mopar rubber mats, Cummins badging. 3,560 miles and counting! Look for me on AOL as “Beck2500!”
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