Water heater goo

[pgleavitt]

I have a 4 year old 5th wheel that I live in full time and came across a problem with my water heater. A fitting broke coming off the water heater and I repaired it. The question I have is when draining the water out of the tank, alot of white goo came out. This stuff was soft and kind of like a paste. I have never drained out the tank but did find out that it should be done at least once a year. I have a 10 gal. Atwood with aluminum tank and in the past have noticed some harder chunks that block the faucet screens and have had to remove them to get full water flow again. Anyone know what this stuff is?

 

[john3976]

It is calcium deposits from hard water, my home water heater should drained every six months according to the manufacture.

 

[Ron Bissett]

I have a 4 year old 5th wheel that I live in full time and came across a problem with my water heater. A fitting broke coming off the water heater and I repaired it. The question I have is when draining the water out of the tank, alot of white goo came out. This stuff was soft and kind of like a paste. I have never drained out the tank but did find out that it should be done at least once a year. I have a 10 gal. Atwood with aluminum tank and in the past have noticed some harder chunks that block the faucet screens and have had to remove them to get full water flow again. Anyone know what this stuff is?

calciun is correct to get it out flush tank by opening the safety valve on top of the tank just lift the bail to lock open position you can use an bent coat hanger to fish out most of the goo and solid junk use a hose to flush while the safety valve is open a few times should do it . If safety valve leaks and you try to seat the valve by opening and closing ,and it still leaks you have to replace it most hard ware stores have them for about 4 to 6 dollars. take old one with to store . Ron Bissett in Metro Louisville Ky or Tampa Fla.

 

[pgleavitt]

Thanks for the info. I did go ahead and use a wire to fish around inside the tank and got a alot more to come out. Very surprised at the amount to came out. I also replaced the safety valve as I have had problems after traveling with it leaking at initial hookup at new locations.

 

[B.G. Smith]

I have a 4 year old 5th wheel that I live in full time and came across a problem with my water heater. A fitting broke coming off the water heater and I repaired it. The question I have is when draining the water out of the tank, alot of white goo came out. This stuff was soft and kind of like a paste. I have never drained out the tank but did find out that it should be done at least once a year. I have a 10 gal. Atwood with aluminum tank and in the past have noticed some harder chunks that block the faucet screens and have had to remove them to get full water flow again. Anyone know what this stuff is?

I hope these guys are right. I have always thought it was from the reaction of the anode in the tank with the water and the aluminum hot water tank. I know when I drain mine and remove the anode to clean it, there is always some of that stuff on the anode and some of the anode missing. Im pretty sure that some of the stuff that comes through the line and plugs the faucet strainer is aluminum oxide. Ok metalurgists or chemests or whatever they are, what't the true story? bg

 

[pgleavitt]

While getting parts to fix my water heater from the RV dealer, They told me I didn't need the anode with an aluminum tank. Is this true or is it needed in all water heaters?

 

[B.G. Smith]

It is my understanding that the anode is there to prevent electrolasis caused by dissimilar metals in the system from eating away at the tank (aluminum, brass, steel, copper, etc. ), I have an 04 trailer with a 10 gallon tank and it came with an anode. I have replaced it once already as it was about half gone. It is the long one, about 8" long. And yes, my tank is aluminum. bg

 

[Todd T]

my 05' has a 10Gal with the anode built onto the drain plug.

 

[GerryDrake]

If you have the manual, check it, or if not, get hold of Atwood, because our Atwood in our 2000 Jayco does not have a sacrificial (to electrolysis) rod in it, by design. I know lots of brands do, and can't speak to ALL Atwoods, but ours doesn't. Luckily with this trailer we haven't had much problem with the mineral deposits (we watch where we hook up to water) but with a prior one that had the sacrificial anode the white stuff abounded. If you haven't already, flushing and back flushing with the pop off valve out gives you a real good cleaning. I have used an air compressor to agitate the water in cleaning too. . Just making sure to have both the drain and the pop off hole open so as to not create any pressure. . Your water in Federal Way shouldn't add any deposits. .

 

[Loren]

PLeavitt,



I think that you have two different reactions taking place in your water heater.



The hard, white deposits are calcium from hard water. You can cure that by using soft water. The more practical solution is to drain the deposits from your water heater periodically. I would not drain via the T&P valve. That's the safety valve with the lever on it. I would de-pressurize the water system, ensure that your water heater contains cool water, and remove the drain plug. Then open the T&P valve to allow air into the water heater. This will increase the flow out of the drain plug. There are two reasons for using the drain plug. First, you don't risk getting a piece of debris stuck in the T&P valve and holding it open. Second, the calcium deposits are at the bottom of the water heater tank and so is the drain plug.



If desired, you can stick a coat hanger wire into the drain plug to try to scrape as much of the junk out as possible. You could also turn on the water pump (or hose) and allow the water flowing into the water heater to help rinse it out.



If you can switch to soft water you will eventually eliminate these deposits. Not only will they stop forming, but the existing deposits will eventually dissolve. Soft water will also dissolve any of the hard water deposits in your valves and other plumbing fittings.



I suspect (but am really just guessing) that the pasty deposits are from something else. My guess would be reactions with the sacrificial anode rod.



Here's my opinion regarding whether or not it's required: First, if the manufacturer installed it, it's probably a good idea. Second, if it is disappearing (meaning it's working), then it is definitely required. If that rod doesn't erode, then something else will.



Loren

 

[Grey Wolf]

We have a suburban water heater in our TT and they come with the anode for electrolysis reasons. Once a year I get a new anode and I use a flushing tool, that I got from Camping World, to clean out the "goo". It's an inexpensive unit that hooks on the garden hose, well worth the cost of under $10... .

 

[pgleavitt]

Thanks for all the replies. I did just what Gray Wolf suggested and picked up a clean out or flushing tool from campig World along with a Anode made for the Atwood water heater. I thought I had it cleaned out pretty well and then drained it to install the anode. Much to my surprise I got about 4 times more stuff out of it than I had from the first clean out with the wire. The tool is like a wand thats 12"-14" long that hooks up to a garden hose and really ups the water pressure. I know it's really clean now. I also went ahead and replaced the safety valve. Will have to keep an eye on it and flush it out 1-2 times a year.

 

[WestTN]

I have had this white translucent goo in the plastic fresh water tank in my truck camper, so I know it has nothing to do with a sacrificial anode. I eventually found it was the result of putting bleach into a tank containing RV antifreeze. The bleach removes the pink dye color, so it took a while to figure out what was happening.



Calcium or magnesium deposits in water heaters are always hard, grainy pieces.

 

[RClark]

The Camping world flusjing tool works. However you can make one from 1/4" copper tubing and the appropriate fittings. Just bend the outlet end 90 and flatten it.



flush at least once a year, when you check the Anode.

I use one in my Suburban heater