Water Heater Question?

[Flying_gage]

Hey all,



So I have a "power vent" hot water heater in my basement currently. The bottom is rusting out and needs to be replaced. Well... I went to Menards and there is a $300 price difference between the power vent model and a regular model.



I am sorry for being so vague but is there anyone out there that can offer a quick and dirty on what I need to replace it? The 22 year old girl staffing the plumbing section on a busy Saturday morning was of zero help. I'll post pics of the set up if needed.



Thanks in advance!

 

[mgoncalves]

Post pictures of what you have. Are you asking what is needed to swap out the heater or asking what is needed to go back to a standard heater?

 

[p-Bar]

The power vent is for closed quarters with no combustion to the exterior of the water heater and also brings in air from the outside for combustion. It's more a safety issue , no access to open flame , no open combustion at top of heater. Hope this helps

 

[mgoncalves]

Not all power vent water heaters have an intake vent, many draw combustion air from the space yet still have a vent motor.

 

[flyby night]

Can you install a tankless? I went with a Navien that is something ridiculous like 98% efficient. The energy guide on it said it costs like $190 a year to run the thing. It has been great no problems.

 

[p-Bar]

Can you install a tankless? I went with a Navien that is something ridiculous like 98% efficient. The energy guide on it said it costs like $190 a year to run the thing. It has been great no problems.

The energy guide doesn't take in account for teenagers with an endless supply of hot water they could be the the shower for an hour:-laf

 

[mgoncalves]

Also be aware that with a tankless, you need to be careful of hard water if you have it in your area. All the tankless heaters here plug up within a year or two if you do not have a water softener, but that is with our water which is full of lime.



I'm not a big fan of the tankless heaters as I don't see where you are saving any money over a standard water heater. Initial cost is far greater, and service calls will be more expensive down the road. I just don't see the payback. A standard water heater is going to be in the 30-40,0000 btu input range, where a tankless will be 100- 200,000 input range. If you like long showers, you're actually going to use more gas than you would with an insulated storage tank.



In my opinion, the best way to go is an indirect tank tied to a modulating condensing boiler. The best of both worlds, water storage and can just about keep up with demand should you decide to take a really long shower.

 

[Flying_gage]

Thanks for the input guys.



I have not had the chance to take a pic of the water heater and set up. But it is a reliance 606 and looks to be a regular model. I think what I have is a flame sensor connected to a vent fan as my "run" to the outside vent is prolly 12-15'.



I looked at the tankless and they just don't make sense when you break it down, (at least for our usage). In addition, we do live in the country and have hard water that is only moderately tempered by the water softener.



Let me know if this sounds plausible, what I have described above. I will try and get a pic up today. .



Thanks!

 

[mgoncalves]

You have a 606, or want to install the 606? Their install instructions show that as being a natural draft water heater. Pictures of what you have will help tremendously here, make sure and take some of how the vent is run also.

 

[Flying_gage]

Pics

Thanks for the patience. I hope these help.



#ad


#ad


#ad

 

[mgoncalves]

Wow! Now I see why I'm confused with what you were saying. That's a standard natural draft water heater that someone has hacked a blower onto the exhaust. You are on the right path just by wanting to replace it. Best bet here is to get a direct vent water heater, one that has intake and exhaust, and vents in PVC. Reason I say that is because your existing vent is not safe side venting through the patched up window, which is probably why the blower was added on.



Get a direct vent water heater, block off the window, run your intake and exhaust out that spot being careful to follow the instructions with the heater. There are some clearances you need to be aware of on the outside and also how you terminate the pvc, all of which will be in the instruction book.



Other options, go electric or call in a reputable company to make this right. What you have is not cool and whoever rigged that up should not be doing this kind of work. Remember, gas water heaters are the number 1 cause of CO deaths in houses, this is a good example of why.

 

[Flying_gage]

Now I feel less confused. . I couldn't replicate this system anywhere and was starting to figure it was cobbled together. I take it you have experience with this stuff huh?



Thanks for the heads up. I will get this taken care of asap.

 

[mgoncalves]

I take it you have experience with this stuff huh?

I own a HVAC company and am on a mechanical contractors board that deals with the guys that do the kind of work you posted.

 

[p-Bar]

What a jerry rigged deal.