2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Water in fuel light

[JohnG]

I just bought my second '95 2500, and to my surprise, I saw a "Water in fuel" warning light for the first time (on start up). My first truck never had the light since I bought it last Feb. (my first diesel). (I know, dumb. But I never read the book 'till I have to). . Anyhow, in looking thru "The Dodge manual" the only check of the light involves removing the whole instrument panel, etc. Trying to avoid that just to see if it's just the bulb or not. . There's got to be a way to put some voltage or a jumper or something at the connector under the hood, but I'll be darned if anyone thought to put it in "The Manual". . (I did find the connector disconnected, but re-connecting it made no dif). AND just had the fuel filter changed and the dummies didn't say anything about the connector, or the wif sensor, or check to see if the light was working. Any help out there?

Second topic. . After buying this 2nd truck, I find (driving it home from Ariz. ) that it's a S*** load faster and accelerates better at high speeds than the first truck. I had been convinced that the first truck had the 4. 10 rear end and I know this one has the 3. 54, so that made sense, but in looking again, it seems that the frist one also has the 3. 54. ?? So why the dif in performance? Thay are both stock (except the 2nd truck has an exhaust brake). Please remember that I'm still a bit of a novice, but thanks in advance for any suggestions. . JohnG

 

[Joe G.]

John,



The WIF sensor is a pretty simple thing. If there is water in the fuel it will settle to the bottom of the filter and short out the WIF sensor contacts which turns on the light. So if you want to test the light pull the connector loose and short out the pins with a test wire.



The first thing you want to do to compare your trucks is check the CPLs and the rest of the stuff on the data plates to see if the trucks are really the same. Then check to see if you have any boost leaks or a plugged up air filter. Make sure that all recalls have been done on both of them, especially the throttle linkage. Check to see that the slower truck is actually getting full throttle.



If all of that stuff checks, then the faster truck is most probably NOT stock. Take a look at the small elbow where a small tube attaches to the turbo. If it has a little set screw in it you are probably makeing more than stock boost. The TST kit has a replacement break off "tamper proof" screw so the only way to tell for sure if the kit has been installed is to open up the AFC and look at the plate. It should be about in the middle of the allowed adjustment in the screw slots and have two rivits in the top. If it has a large single digit or two digit number in the top of a plate with no rivits it ain't stock.

 

[JohnG]

Thanks Joe G. I checked the CPL and it's the same (1550) and looked carefully at all the screws etc on and around the injector pump and nothing looks touched. . not even a scratch. . Without further inspection (yet), I still think this 2nd truck is stock. I'm starting to think your other guess was a good one. . There may be a boost leak. . in the first truck. . The truck is just too sluggish. . It has 204,000 miles now but still kinda doggie. Fact is, I'm amazed how well the 2nd truck pulls. . I thought I was in love with these things before!!



:--) Oo.